P0336 3.1 Monte Carlo

[pippin]

Took a short trip and died shortly after, cranked up briefly then stalled, wouldn’t restart. Got it towed to my place, pulled codes, replaced crank sensor A, behind the harmonic balancer. Still getting p0336, will start only if I give it full throttle and pump the pedal to keep it going then surges at idle with no pedal decompressed. Tried a relearn but engine isn’t running within parameters. I’m thinking a wiring issue, any thoughts? 

[Schurkey]

WHAT MODEL YEAR?  What is the description of P0336?  Don't make us look it up.

Follow the service manual diagnostic procedure for P0336.

 

Wouldn't hurt to check The Usual Three:

1. Verify fuel pressure at prime, at idle, and under load. Most fuel pressure gauge assemblies have a push-button pressure release connected to crappy vinyl tubing. Route the tubing so it empties into a drain pan, then push the button while the engine is running. This simulates higher fuel demand if you can't check fuel pressure on the highway. Fuel pressure should remain steady even with fuel flowing down the pressure-relief tubing. TBI systems don't hold pressure when the pump stops running, but the other fuel injection styles should. How old is the fuel filter? Have you ever dumped a bottle of Chevron Techron Complete Fuel System Cleaner into the gas tank? (Recommended at every oil change.)

2. How old are the usual “tune-up” parts and procedures? Inspect/replace plug wires, spark plugs. Use quality parts sourced from an authorized seller (NO COUNTERFEIT PARTS FROM AMAZON, EBAY, OR OTHER SKETCHY SELLERS!) Be sure the ignition coils will reliably fire a spark-tester calibrated for HEI when the coils are fully warm, and misted with water from a squirt-bottle. Cranking compression test of all cylinders while the spark plugs are removed. Verify EGR, PCV, EVAP, and Heated Air Intake (if used) systems for proper operation. Verify proper initial timing and electronic spark advance. Replace old O2 sensors unless you can PROVE that they're working properly—old O2 sensors get lazy, they don't provide accurate data, but they do provide “data” that fools people into thinking they're “working”.

3. Connect a scan tool (NOT a crappy “code reader”) and look for “codes”. More important, look at the data stream to verify EVERY sensor and computer output. Verify fuel trims during the time that the vehicle is not running properly. Look for misfire counts for each cylinder. “Codes” have official diagnostic procedures that will be found in the service manual set for your vehicle.

[pwmin]

Most likely the O2 sensor failed.  That's the heater circuit code, not the code for an inefficient catalyst.