mycarsucks Posted October 22 Report Share Posted October 22 Ever since I installed my new motor in my 95 GP I have noticed that the coolant temp reads about 30 degrees higher than it did before the swap. Is it possible that the temp sensor for the gauge which plugs into the rear head reads higher than the old one or would changing that sensor make no difference Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted October 22 Report Share Posted October 22 Its possible I suppose. but you may also have an issue, be it a bad thermostat or whatnot. It should be noted that the gauge and the computer use different sensors I assume if you possessed a scantool you would have used that already Or go buy a cheap IR thermometer and temp it off the radiator hose or someplace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mycarsucks Posted October 22 Author Report Share Posted October 22 I used a IR sensor and found something weird: When scanning the t-stat housing, front head, and water pump, the temps are all in between 180 and 200, but when scanning the rear head (right where the sensor for the gauge is) it registers at 230-240! The left side of the rear head registers cool just like the rest of the engine, its JUST on the driver side of the rear head where it appears to be overheating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted October 22 Report Share Posted October 22 How well did you bleed the air from the cooling system? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mycarsucks Posted October 22 Author Report Share Posted October 22 I got all the air out with a big no leak funnel, when I open the bleeders straight coolant comes out, no air bubbles. Car runs at 212ish on the highway but once I come to a stop it starts rising to 3/4 on the gauge (whatever that is) I thought it was just the gauge but i hope I dont warp a head with one side running warmer like that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55trucker Posted October 22 Report Share Posted October 22 (edited) Do you know the history of that replacement engine? How do you know if this situation didn't exist before the engine came into your ownership? When one is bleeding the system at the small ports the system has to be pressurized, by that I mean you have to either have the rad cap in place & locked down or the coolant fill device attached to the rad cap port has to have a stopper pushed into place in the centre of the funnel while the engine has been allowed to warm up. Trying to bleed them with no system pressure will get you very little. Edited October 22 by 55trucker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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