skatey Posted September 8 Report Share Posted September 8 My Grand Prix has been having a problem with the speed sensor and causing the mph to jump on the speedometer. The last couple days my car has been randomly stalling whether idle or driving, and I’m feeling this is being caused by issues that may have started building up from the sensor messing up now causing internal damage that I cant entirely feel. The stalling is also unnoticeable when it happens, the only one to know if that the steering wheel locks up and the car won’t accelerate. I’m starting to think I’m going to need to get a new harness or jus that it rebuilt cuz there are tons of electrical issues popping up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted September 8 Report Share Posted September 8 (edited) WHAT YEAR? WHAT ENGINE? WHICH TRANSMISSION? The Usual Three: Verify fuel pressure at prime, at idle, and under load. Most fuel pressure gauge assemblies have a push-button pressure release connected to crappy vinyl tubing. Route the tubing so it empties into a drain pan, then push the button while the engine is running. This simulates higher fuel demand if you can't check fuel pressure on the highway. Fuel pressure should remain steady even with fuel flowing down the pressure-relief tubing. How old is the fuel filter? Have you ever dumped a bottle of Chevron Techron Complete Fuel System Cleaner into the gas tank? (Recommended at every oil change.) How old are the usual “tune-up” parts and procedures? Inspect/replace plug wires, spark plugs. Use quality parts sourced from an authorized seller (NO COUNTERFEIT PARTS FROM AMAZON, EBAY, OR OTHER SKETCHY SELLERS!) Be sure the ignition coils will reliably fire a spark-tester calibrated for HEI when the coil is fully warm, and misted with water from a squirt-bottle. Cranking compression test of all cylinders while the spark plugs are removed. Verify EGR, PCV, EVAP systems for proper operation. Verify proper electronic spark advance. Replace old O2 sensor(s) unless you can PROVE that they're working properly—old O2 sensors get lazy, they don't provide accurate data, but they do provide “data” that fools people into thinking they're “working”. Connect a scan tool (NOT a crappy “code reader”) and look for “codes”. More important, look at the data stream to verify EVERY sensor and computer output. Verify fuel trims during the time that the vehicle is not running properly. Look for misfire counts for each cylinder (OBD2 only.) “Codes” have official diagnostic procedures that will be found in the service manual set for your vehicle. Edited September 8 by Schurkey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skatey Posted September 8 Author Report Share Posted September 8 (edited) 10 hours ago, Schurkey said: WHAT YEAR? WHAT ENGINE? WHICH TRANSMISSION? The Usual Three: Verify fuel pressure at prime, at idle, and under load. Most fuel pressure gauge assemblies have a push-button pressure release connected to crappy vinyl tubing. Route the tubing so it empties into a drain pan, then push the button while the engine is running. This simulates higher fuel demand if you can't check fuel pressure on the highway. Fuel pressure should remain steady even with fuel flowing down the pressure-relief tubing. How old is the fuel filter? Have you ever dumped a bottle of Chevron Techron Complete Fuel System Cleaner into the gas tank? (Recommended at every oil change.) How old are the usual “tune-up” parts and procedures? Inspect/replace plug wires, spark plugs. Use quality parts sourced from an authorized seller (NO COUNTERFEIT PARTS FROM AMAZON, EBAY, OR OTHER SKETCHY SELLERS!) Be sure the ignition coils will reliably fire a spark-tester calibrated for HEI when the coil is fully warm, and misted with water from a squirt-bottle. Cranking compression test of all cylinders while the spark plugs are removed. Verify EGR, PCV, EVAP systems for proper operation. Verify proper electronic spark advance. Replace old O2 sensor(s) unless you can PROVE that they're working properly—old O2 sensors get lazy, they don't provide accurate data, but they do provide “data” that fools people into thinking they're “working”. Connect a scan tool (NOT a crappy “code reader”) and look for “codes”. More important, look at the data stream to verify EVERY sensor and computer output. Verify fuel trims during the time that the vehicle is not running properly. Look for misfire counts for each cylinder (OBD2 only.) “Codes” have official diagnostic procedures that will be found in the service manual set for your vehicle. Its a 99 grand prix gtp, has the 3800 series 2 engine and 4t65e hd transmission Edited September 8 by skatey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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