Jump to content

Problem areas: What should I expect?


Shaners

Recommended Posts

As you know I bought a '93 Cutlass Converible w/3.1L and 72K miles. What kind of things should expect problems from?

 

Here is a list of some of the major work that has been done.

 

Struts

Alternator

Plugs

Wires

PVC Valve

MAP sensor

Tranny Service

Coolant Flush

Throttle Body Service (cleaning?)

 

This is some of the stuff I remember without pulling out the reciepts.

 

Other than general maintenance and "lots" of rear brakes, what kind of things should I look forward to?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know of a buddy with a Euro/3.1L that broke a rear spring, and has an oil leak around the intake manifold? I think the oil leak is somewhat common, isn't it?

 

I just want to know how much confidence I should have in the car. It made the 350 trip home without a problem. It runs/shifts great and is full of cowl shake and rattles like any 11 year old convertible should be!!! LOL!!!

 

There was a small 2"-3" spot of oil under the car in the area of the front left A-frame after I drove it home and let it sit for a few weeks. I don't know if it was oil spilled from a recent oil change or not...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As you know I bought a '93 Cutlass Converible w/3.1L and 72K miles.

Other than general maintenance and "lots" of rear brakes, what kind of things should I look forward to?

 

Actually, very little. Since you don't have the DOHC, you don't need to check a timing belt.

You don't need to be concerned about the dreaded DOHC Intake Manifold Gasket problem.

And, alternators are a 10min - 15min project once you get the hang of it.

 

Some things that may come up before 100K miles and beyond:

* thermostat / water pump (when leaking or overheating occurs)

* top-end intake cleaner (reduces poor acceleration / sluggish-ness)

* keeping up with transmission fluid flushes (every 15K - 30K depending)

* miscellaneous sensors (mainly Oxygen Sensor @ 100K)

Other than that, you've got yourself a clean running Cutlass convertable.

If there's no problems, no worries... but preventing complications through maintenance is the biggest key on W-Bodies.

 

- Erik

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Chances are, your alternator will only last 1-2yrs if she puts the average 15k miles/yr on the car. Like others have said, they only take 10-15 minutes to change once you get the hang of it. Get one with a Lifetime Warranty if you plan to keep the car for any length of time. I would recommend an AC Delco reman over generic parts store brands. Back when there was a Western Auto, I bought their cheapest Sentry Gold brand alternator, and it would only last about 6-months.

 

If you have an oil leak that resembles a rear-main seal failure, it's probably the distributor plug O-ring. If yours is original, it's probably time for it to be replaced. Shine a flashlight down under the throttle body and look at the engine block. The dist plug will be silver aluminum. If there's oil pooled there, then you probably need the O-ring. The replacement will be brown silicone if you buy it from the dealer, and should last a long, long time.

 

Those are the only problems I can think of that you can expect. The 3.1L is a relatively low-maintennance engine so it shouldn't give you many problems.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've had excellent luck with alternators. I put one in my 3.4. Never put one in the 70,000 miles I had the Lumina.. And I've put one in the 55,000 miles I've had the GP.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...