DOES ANYONE KNOW WHERE TO GET LATERAL LINKS FOR 95 CUTTY???

[darklotus42]

Hey people so apparently no retail store I can find has lateral arms for the 95 cutlass 2dr. I need to know if anyone has any they would part with or where I can get suitable replacements. Any help would be appreciated...thx

[55trucker]

There are aftermarket lateral arms manufactured for the 1st Gen cars, search Rockauto for the Monte Carlo rear lateral links, or you would have to find a set from a salvage yard (preferably rust free), or custom fab a set from the 2nd Gen cars.

Edited October 21, 2023 by 55trucker

[darklotus42]

Awesome they sure do have some for the Monte...but why wouldn't they automatically cross reference the part numbers if they are essentially the same? 

[55trucker]

The design for the Lumina/Monte Carlo items were altered from a rectangular box to what you see, the part #'s also changed, there's no cross reference back to the previous design.

the suspension member is still the same item as is the rear knuckles, the Monte's don't make use of the rear transverse leaf.

[darklotus42]

Ok gotcha....one more question...I noticed on rockauto theres difference in the overall length of the part between the moog and mevotech. Shouldn't they be the same? 

[55trucker]

I can't speak to that as I've never had to purchase the original design arms to go under my car.

What IS important is that there are 2 different length arms in use, the rear arms are longer than the fronts. Before purchasing replacements get under the car & take a length measurement of both overall & at the bushing eyes. I'm just assuming that the lengths you see in the ads is the overall, not eye to eye.

[Bake82]

Thanks 55trucker.  I’m not the OP but this is great info!    

[darklotus42]

Okay so here's what's going on. I couldn't find the lateral arms for the Cutlass so I went ahead and ordered the ones for the Monte Carlo. they had moogs and mevotec. I ordered a set of each. I got the moogs today and I went ahead and took the old lateral arms off and here's a pic of the old ones next to the moogs. as you can see they're not the right length so now I'm just going to wait on the mevotecs and compare them as well. if there's anybody out there that has any further knowledge on which are the right ones to use please let me know. Thanks

 

 

Edited November 18, 2023 by darklotus42
Add pic and comment

[55trucker]

Well those lengths are both disappointing & surprising,

It's not easy to see accurately how much longer each new arm is with respect to the original.....

It looks as tho each new arm is less than half the dia of the eye hole longer than the old ones. Using your tape measure what's that measurement?

[SuperBuick]

Hi all - im following up here vs starting a new thread.

 

I too need 1st gen lateral links (all four), and there is lots of conflicting info out there - but @darklotus42 is the only info i have seen with pics showing that the "monte carlo" (2nd gen?) arms are actually too long.

 

Is there a definitive answer to "I need all 4 lateral arms for a gen 1 W-body"?  I'm not averse to putting bushings in my existing ones, but I cant find the info for those either!

 

Thank you!

[Bake82]

buy 4 rear lateral links for a 97+ grand prix.  They are adjustable. 

 

The 97+ link will bolt in and work no issues to replace the 1st gen rear arm

the 97+ link will not bolt in for the front of the 1st gen arm - but if you cut 1 inch out of the arm, and re-thread an extra inch (find a 55trucker post on this) they will fit no issues. 

 

My recommendation is to match the length of the new arms identical to the 1st gen arm and you will have no issues getting it aligned.  '

 

 

I have 97+ adjustable arms on the rear of my cutlass.  the only issues I've had with alignment is when i installed them and they were the wrong length side to side.  Make them the same as the 1st gen and you'll be golden.  

[White93z34]

 

[SuperBuick]

Thank you @Bake82 and @White93z34

 

did you all cut/thread yourselves? Or is this better taken to a machine shop?

[Bake82]

So me personally - I had mine cut, metal put inside for strength and then welded back together and keeping the same threads, however 55 trucker cut the threads himself and I think this approach is way easier/better than cutting and welding.

 

Saying this, if I was to need to replace this one, I'd 100% buy the proper size die to do it myself.  no reason to take to a machine shop if you're comfortable with a using a die. 55 trucker has outlined the size/pitch thread die needed in this thread here.  

 

 

[55trucker]

On 6/21/2024 at 12:11 PM, SuperBuick said:

Thank you @Bake82 and @White93z34

 

did you all cut/thread yourselves? Or is this better taken to a machine shop?

if you decide to go the Gen 2 *fabbed* route I can't stress enough the finding of an aftermarket set that have pressed in FIRM bushings.

The original gen 1 lateral arms bushings have no * give* to them (which is what is needed).

Some of what's out there have been fitted with *mushy* bushings, stay away from them, if you go the effort of purchasing these & then do the fab work only to find that after fitting them under your car while driving the back end wanders worse than a blind duck you won't be happy.

My solution was somewhat intense, I pushed out the poor bushings that were supplied & a close friend fabbed up a set of delrin bushings that I then pressed in. These are tighter than polyurethane, they don't give at all.

Cutting the new thread isn't rocket science, it's relatively simple, a bench vise is needed to hold the arm stationary, the M20x1.5 die, you'll need the die handle to mount the die into, spin the die onto the end of the existing thread & cut a little more than an inch of new thread. If you decide to match the new arms to the old arms length a simple 1/2"x5" bolt thru both ends eyes & lay both arms down on top of the bolts & turn the turnbuckle of the gen 2 arms so the lengths are identical & then slip down over the bolts.

Now, there is one more process you'll need to look after, the original rear arms align the toe, the old arms slide in the rear centre suspension support. Seeing as the * new* arms are fully adjustable there's no need for any *sliding at the inboard ends.

You'll want to fab up a pair of simple square *spacers* ( I used 3/16 flatbar) that are cut to fit near precisely in the rectangular recess that is part of the rear support. Drill a hole in the centre of each spacer just a hair larger than the dia of the 2 thru bolts that locate the arms there.  This spacer is needed to prevent any possible *sliding* of the arms to prevent loss of the alignment setting.

The entire process isn't difficult at all.

 

 

 

[SuperBuick]

@55trucker - thank you!!

 

Great description and makes perfect sense. The big concern then I guess is “which brand of arms has acceptably stiff bushings”

 

i wonder if the adjustable BMR arms are the better choice in terms of risking getting bushings that are too soft. I know they are pricy, but I think they DO fit on 1st gen Ws…

[55trucker]

The 4 items I picked up from Rockauto were the Dorman items (905502). I selected those as Dorman has a decent rep. I received them, gave them a good inspection & that's when I discovered that the installed bushings were *mush*. I could literally flex & push the centre pin out by hand. I can't imagine that the 2nd gen cars could function properly with these in their *as delivered* state. Sending them back was a difficult option as I'm in the Toronto area & on the north side of the border.

[Raffaelli]

I bought a set of new Doorman second generation adjustable arms. Put in new poly bushings. Running in my 1994 Z34. 
 

 About the second page of the thread.