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`89 TGP joining the collection


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Posted (edited)

Alright here she is, the 1989 Pontiac "2000 Le" from Trenton. For some reason that was what the auction lot labeled it as. I had a 3rd party inspector check it out and run the VIN prior to bidding. It was a one owner car from NJ until it went to the auction lot, a slight front end collision a few years ago that set its title into the salvage category. That had to have been repaired out of pocket and when the car was repainted as theres obvious overspray and some peeling around trim. Theres some slight scratches here and there as one would expect but over all it looks amazing for how old it is.

1st pic on the truck when it arrived, 

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It didnt start at first so we pushed it off the trailer and into the driveway, the brakes worked great and the valence only suffered a little. It seemed to have a lot of odd electrical problems and wouldnt crank at all. Thinking it was the aftermarket alarm I went to pull the battery out so I could unplug the damn horn and saw it was from 2011. A new battery had the engine fired right up and I drove it around the block a few times then topped the tank off at the ethanol free place. 

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...TBC

 

Edited by rich_e777
Posted (edited)

Driving it around it handles great, a little stiff due to just being worn out. The steering takes some effort but theres no whining coming from the pump. It brakes pretty good for what it is but its quirky I guess is about the right word to describe it. Spongey yet firm and responsive. Sounds real nice on the backroad straights yet when I got it back to the driveway the transmission gave a nice little kick when going into reverse.

Probably because of this getting it off the trailer.

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I could also use a replacement grille insert and Ill post in the wanted section unless someone sees this here and has one.

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Edited by rich_e777
Posted

Glad you got this TGP! It is really clean looking. I'll take a look for a grill. I used to have one. 

  • Like 1
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Posted

`89 Manual and Turbo supplement ordered, better to have on hand just in case. 

I went to change the oil and its already done, but the trans fluid is definitely old and sort of burnt. Noticed alot of new looking exhaust work done after the turbo and extra heat shielding around the master cylinder that looks newer than other parts. I`d really like to talk to the PO and get the back ground story, this was no doubt a cared for car. All the rubber seals and trim are nice and new looking too, its in really amazing shape.

I did find some rust at the end of the front wheel well as it becomes the rocker panels, but I dont think its so bad its structural. You`d never see it unless you reached underneath and felt it. 

 

 

  • Like 2
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Went out on a long test run through the neighborhood backroads and man what a car! I had to put some 1x4s down at the end of the driveway to keep from scraping the road. Also had a near panic moment coming across some new speed bumps. I recall seeing the lowered cars hit the bumps diagonally and that seemed to work just fine. To much traffic on the main roads and even on the backroads to get into the pedal though, plus the no tag thing...

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Antique Plates now, went on a decent little trip to Best Buy and it runs and drives just fine. It didnt want to start up afterwards though, everything had power but no cranking at all just a relay clicking. The 3rd try it fired right up though.

Took the interstate back and man it just goes. Maybe because I`m used to drive big lumbering slow things, I didnt realize i was around 80-85mph by the end of the on ramp. Even better it just sips on the gas and feels faster that a 2nd gen GTP with the L67 that chugged the premium. I thought the fuel gauge was broken! Taking it to my 1st car show next Saturday for Cars and Coffee, Jiggity`s letting me borrow a grill insert(Thanks again man)

Any ideas on how to go about finding the PO? This was a really cared for car that I`m sure they`d want to know what happened to it.

 

 

Posted
9 hours ago, rich_e777 said:

Antique Plates now, went on a decent little trip to Best Buy and it runs and drives just fine. It didnt want to start up afterwards though, everything had power but no cranking at all just a relay clicking. The 3rd try it fired right up though.

Took the interstate back and man it just goes. Maybe because I`m used to drive big lumbering slow things, I didnt realize i was around 80-85mph by the end of the on ramp. Even better it just sips on the gas and feels faster that a 2nd gen GTP with the L67 that chugged the premium. I thought the fuel gauge was broken! Taking it to my 1st car show next Saturday for Cars and Coffee, Jiggity`s letting me borrow a grill insert(Thanks again man)

Any ideas on how to go about finding the PO? This was a really cared for car that I`m sure they`d want to know what happened to it.

 

 

Having owned 3 TGP's, they will fool you into thinking they are sipping gas. The gas gauge on them stays high forever before finally plummeting. A 1/2 tank on the gauge is more like 1/4 in reality. And by 1/4 tank on the gauge, you'd best be looking for fuel soon. All mine have gotten very low 20s mpg mixed driving on premium. Definitely lower than I've gotten out of 3800s and even lower than both of my LQ1 cars. Nice looking car too, btw. Congrats.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Finally had the chance to pull the wheels off and creep around underneath. Not too bad, everything rubber that wears out is pretty much worn out and surface rusted. The calipers were replaced not too long ago with pads and rotors but they were not the coated brand and have rusted over. The rust behind the front wheels doesnt seem to go back to much but I need to get the rocker panel trim off to see for sure. Motor and trans mounts are shot though so I`m not driving it to much until all those are replaced to help preserve the special tires. Those things are pricey so I`m happy to have some good ones that came with it.

It needs some work but not a huge investment and will make a great show car, not necessarily for me either. I dont have it "For Sale" officially but would entertain offers before I get too attached to it and want $12,000 for just the wheels.

Edited by rich_e777
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Engine mounts replaced with solid parts. 8/18

 

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Discovered the trans modulator vacuum line open to the HVAC ball thats missing. Possible it was lost in the front end collision and never replaced. Some expert just put a bolt in the old crumbling line and called it fixed. I`ll steal the one off the Vert for now, its not a parts car though. Just a reminder to myself to put it back on when I`m reading this in the future.

I also have a little oil residue that builds up around the turbo piping and some of the turbine blades look a little burned. Is this an indicator that its about time to have it rebuilt/replaced?

Posted
On 9/5/2023 at 9:27 AM, rich_e777 said:

Discovered the trans modulator vacuum line open to the HVAC ball thats missing. Possible it was lost in the front end collision and never replaced. Some expert just put a bolt in the old crumbling line and called it fixed. I`ll steal the one off the Vert for now, its not a parts car though. Just a reminder to myself to put it back on when I`m reading this in the future.

I also have a little oil residue that builds up around the turbo piping and some of the turbine blades look a little burned. Is this an indicator that its about time to have it rebuilt/replaced?

First thing I’d do is replace the turbo oil drain line.   They were notorious for collapsing and causing issues. 

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Discovered my rear jounce bumpers have the consistency of government cheese and coming apart. Most if not all associated bushings underneath are in need of replacement and heavy surface rust on most metal components. So looking at a full suspension rebuild both front and back.

The question is to go coil over in the back or stick to factory replacement?

  • Like 2
Posted

Being an N.J. vehicle I'm not surprised to hear about the suspension rot.

What sort of condition are the brake lines to the rear in?

The car belongs to you, it's your call if you choose to install coilovers, I'd be looking closely at the condition of the rear shock towers to see if they can carry the weight of the car......... seeing as they were never intended to.

The car doesn't appear to be *sagging*, if you wanted to keep the car at its present ride height then you could make use of the springs presently under the car, if you decided to *drop* the height then you are looking for lowering coil springs for the front & a custom rear leaf for the rear.

Replacement lateral arm bushings are available, entire rear trailing arms also available as well, *assuming* your present lateral arms are still in a healthy state that you can press out the old & in with the new.

I earlier this year went thru an entire front & rear rebuild, the route I took was *unconventional*, but it gave me what I wanted from the suspension.

 

Posted

I would go coilover, but again, make sure there is no rot in the strut towers.  You can also get new trailing arm mounts (I think).

Posted

Fortunately i've not found any body rust around the rear suspension, just the replaceable parts like the lateral links and trailing arms are crispy. Fuel and brake lines don't inspire confidence either now that I`m under here. I never thought about the strut towers not designed to hold the weight, I`ll keep it close to factory with modded 2gen links and maybe thicker sway bars only. I wasn't trying to lower it or gain any significant handling benefits, the 1st gens have always been nimble enough for me.

 

  • Like 3
Posted

Gen 2 lateral arms are my personal choice as well, if you pick up 4 adjustable items 2 of them have to be shortened by just over 1", then rethread the shortened long arm end.

An M20x1.5 thread die is needed to cut the new thread on the end of the arm.

Be choosy looking for the Gen 2 arms, you want an aftermarket arm that has next to near non flexible bushings pressed into the *eyes*.

 

Posted
3 hours ago, 55trucker said:

Gen 2 lateral arms are my personal choice as well, if you pick up 4 adjustable items 2 of them have to be shortened by just over 1", then rethread the shortened long arm end.

An M20x1.5 thread die is needed to cut the new thread on the end of the arm.

Be choosy looking for the Gen 2 arms, you want an aftermarket arm that has next to near non flexible bushings pressed into the *eyes*.

 

Interesting approach to simply cut the new thread.  I like that approach!  I have a set that was cut in the middle and then re-welded, but the re-threading seems like a better approach!

 

Posted

^ Yeah, Matt used to take the *cut & weld* approach, I couldn't understand why he did them that way seeing as he is/was a machinist at the Toyota plant in Woodstock here in Ontario & had access to the needed tools.

I prefer to cut the ends & rethread them.

 

 

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  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Posted
15 hours ago, 55trucker said:

^ Yeah, Matt used to take the *cut & weld* approach, I couldn't understand why he did them that way seeing as he is/was a machinist at the Toyota plant in Woodstock here in Ontario & had access to the needed tools.

I prefer to cut the ends & rethread them.

 

 

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Yes Matt did mine way back, but now they need bushings.  Now I know the better way I can do way easier myself if I ever need to!  Thank you again! 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I`ll have to find a machine shop around here I like that would do that, and take them an old one to get the precise measurement. I got to looking at putting a RTSB on it and found out there isnt a single nut holding the rear strut mounts to the body. No freakin wonder the back end feels off going down the road and over bumps! 

 

I cant believe these never got a similar badge or emblem like the ACS Capri`s did, these are cool... and for the price I think I`m going to get one for the trunk lid or underneath one of the tail lights. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/233771782014?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&campid=5338590836&toolid=10044&customid=1582473de84f1b999b3022494df32e2c

 

  • Like 2
  • 3 months later...
Posted

Ehh, I dont hate it but it sort of looks funny being the only "chrome" on the car. Might have looked better above the tail light instead.

It has little lines going through it like retro things did back then that match the grids in the tail lights and ribs in the bumpers in a very OCD friendly way.

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  • Like 2
Posted

Jealous of your antique plate. I can't wait to get one on my GTP. 

Posted (edited)

Just a year away though. 

Ive had it about a year and driven it at least 200mi and the oil is still clear with a slight amber hue.

She needs a dedicated garage spot to be parked in doors, its in WAY to good of shape for an `89 to just be covered in the driveway.

I wish I could keep it like a Countach or Testarossa, thats the idea anyways.

 

Edited by rich_e777
Posted

It had to be saved, it was going to the Jawas otherwise. All Jiggity57`s fault for posting it.

I got into a bit of a race the other day when I probably shouldnt have. I made a right turn and immediately found a speeding BMW attempting to swerve around me from a sharp corner in the right lane. I laid into the pedal a bit, chirped the tires and heard an awesome turbo wastegate PAHHTISHHHHH and left the kraut cart far into the rearview mirror. Scared the hell out of me and blew the lower hose off the turbo in the process. I love this freakin` car!

Decades after WW2 and we can still put the Messerschmitt`s in their place, just not in a P51 Mustangs.

 

 

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