pwmin Posted June 15, 2021 Report Share Posted June 15, 2021 I got the A/C filled with dye and refrigerant and used it for the first time the other day. The A/C blows though all the vents when the upper vents are selected. It was blowing though all of them no matter what was selected, but after doing the recalibration procedure, it blows harder and with putting on the floor vents, it works properly, but when selecting upper vents, it still blows though the lower vents, too. I checked the vacuum and it's getting 15 psi at idle after fixing some routing that I did incorrectly when doing the Gen V swap. It has the automatic dual zone climate control. Any ideas what to check next? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pwmin Posted June 20, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2021 Both of the actuators are bad, but that only controls temperature. The only codes I'm getting are for the actuators. I don't believe the solenoids are bad after some digging and testing. I reset it a few times and I got it to work properly as far as the mode selector goes, but it only works for about a minute and then seems to revert to bi-level after a couple minutes. I moved the blend doors to cold manually, but the A/C still isn't blowing cold. Could be because of too much pressure in the system, I suppose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55trucker Posted June 21, 2021 Report Share Posted June 21, 2021 Paul: have you tried clearing the codes with the scanner? (I'm assuming that this IS the Vette)? The code you're getting is BO229? or 3770 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pwmin Posted June 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2021 This is on the GT(P). I have actuators on the way and that should get rid of the codes. Codes are 05 and 06 using the diagnostics in the HVAC controls (accessed by pushing both temp controls for 5 seconds). I don't think I'm getting it to recalibrate correctly, so after replacing the actuators, I'm going to use my dad's shop's Tech II to force calibration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55trucker Posted June 22, 2021 Report Share Posted June 22, 2021 I'm no expert on OBD2 dual climate systems, something similar to this happened with my son's 02 GTP a few years ago. We did a recalibration by following these instructions Turn off ignition Find & remove all of the HVAC fuses Turn the A/C & heater controls to *Off* & all the temp controls to coldest setting Set HVAC to auto Plug the fuses back in Start engine & let run for *in our case* near 10 mins the system reset itself back to normal give it a try Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pwmin Posted June 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2021 Cool, I will give that a try tomorrow after I install the new actuators. I've tried a couple different methods of resetting it and neither worked for more than a minute or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pwmin Posted June 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2021 I had to do it a little differently since I have automatic climate control and can't change anything with the fuses pulled, but I think it held this time. One of the actuators was bad, though, so I need another one, but this time of year I can't just manually switch it to cold. As for the A/C not blowing cold, I was a dumbass and was reading the low side pressure without the car and a/c running. It was a little low, so it just was low on freon, but not enough for the compressor clutch not to run. I'm going to evacuate the system, replace the compressor o-rings, fill it back up and hope that fixes it. The only place I saw any dye was where the lines go in to the compressor. Will replace the compressor if necessary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55trucker Posted June 24, 2021 Report Share Posted June 24, 2021 With the A/C system static.....as in *not having been used* what pressure were you seeing on both the manifold gauges? There has to be at least 45ibs. in the system for the pressure switch to close, a fully charged system will read in the area of 90lbs. The V5 is a variable displacement compressor, meaning it doesn't cycle when engaged. Do you have a vacuum pump on hand? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pwmin Posted June 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2021 I don't have any AC equipment at home, only the cheapo gauge/filler thing, so I can only read the low side. I'm going up to my dad's shop tomorrow and they have all of the equipment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55trucker Posted June 24, 2021 Report Share Posted June 24, 2021 Good idea, having someone on hand who is familiar with the procedure is your best bet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pwmin Posted June 27, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2021 Got a new actuator from NAPA and it seems to be working, but it was past where it was supposed to be in the heat position, so I had to move it before I installed it. Got the compressor seals replaced and the high side valve was leaking air when I removed the cap, so I replaced that, too. I did notice some dye on the compressor towards the middle on the bottom, so hopefully I don't need a new compressor, too. Everything seems to be working correctly now, at least. I could not find the special function on the Tech 2 to force calibration; must not be new enough for that. jiggity76 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55trucker Posted June 27, 2021 Report Share Posted June 27, 2021 8 hours ago, pwmin said: I did notice some dye on the compressor towards the middle on the bottom, so hopefully I don't need a new compressor, too. Right where the control valve is inserted into the housing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pwmin Posted June 28, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 (edited) Didn't really look very closely. I'll look at it again after some time to see if I can't find where it's leaking. It wasn't much compared to seals. Edited June 28, 2021 by pwmin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pwmin Posted June 29, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2021 Everything seems to be working, but I have backups now if I need them. I have a follow-up question, though. The ones I got that quit working will turn to the right, but not to the left. If you power the pin on the right and ground the pin 2 to the left, it will turn it to the right (cold) and if you touch both pins next to the far right pin, it will turn it to the left (hot). I took the board completely out and if you power the board where the motor is soldered in, all of the motors will turn both ways easily (which way depends on the polarity), but when you use the connector pins, they won't turn it to the left anymore, which completely removes the possibility of it being due to binding of the gears. This has to be an issue with the circuit board, but I'm not sure where the issue lies. Nothing looks burnt on the board. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pwmin Posted September 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2021 Alright, still having issues. I can get it to reprogram so it only blows out of the upper vents. I used to be able to get it to work temporarily after resetting, but can't get it to anymore. I tried two other units that I got from the junkyard and they're both doing the same thing. What am I missing? I tested the vacuum system when I started trying to figure all this out. And now the compressor clutch won't engage. Maybe I'm low on freon again, but I couldn't find any dye. I'll have to take it back to my dad's shop again to check the pressures. I'm beyond frustrated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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