1999 Regal GS deal, is it worth it?

[Cheese Burger Eddy]

Found a Regal GS for 400$ local. It isn't running and isn't too rusty apparently. 

I know what I should check for, specifically the rear suspension rusting out and collapsing (I have seen it on plenty of Grand Prix) but this is a 400$ regal GS and probably the cheapest I have found to date. Lots of really exceptionally cheap Grand Prix are around that have running engines too, so swapping may be an option (I have a friend with a shitty, but useable garage). Other than significant rust, anything I should be looking for on this thing? 400$ is just such a steal.

[digitaloutsider]

Why is it not running? An engine issue?

The transmissions are an obvious failure point, check the fluid and make sure it's not overly burned. If the engine is not running for an unknown reason, check the oil and make sure the intake manifold gaskets haven't failed (it would look like a milkshake). Rust, as you've pointed out, is certainly an issue on northern cars. These vehicles do not have coated brake lines, so check the condition of all of them as well. Check the rear wheel wells where the strut attaches to the body and make sure rust hasn't eaten through there.

[Cheese Burger Eddy]

Well the rear wheel well rust and rockers are my big "rust check" spots. I asked why it isn't running and was told "it won't start". I am planning on bringing my scanner and some rags and checking fluids, checking fuses and trying to jump start it. Outside of that, the guy took 2 pictures of the car from 10 feet away and of the GS badge. Maybe it is a simple fix. I see lots of SC 3800 cars kicking around completely rotted out but with decent running engines for the 500-3K range, so this is an anomaly at the price. Hopefully I can check it out and if it is something I think I can fix, I will lowball him a bit.

EDIT: He says it makes and electrical sound with no turnover. Said it was driven in the last 2-3 years then parked.......

Edited July 9, 2020 by Cheese Burger Eddy

[digitaloutsider]

Sounds like a good plan. There aren't tons of things that can cause a crank/no-start situation on a 3800. Check fuel pressure at the rail. If there is fuel, unplug the MAF. If that doesn't work, plug it in and unplug the MAP. If that doesn't work it's likely something ignition related, likely crank position sensor or ICM. Outside of that you'd be diagnosing wiring/PCM issues.

[Cutlass350]

Where in the country do you live, and where/how was the car stored.
It sounds like you're not in Phoenix, if you're looking for rusty POS rear trailing arms (had them go on two of my Olds cars).

The GM brakes lines are also a POS.  Especially the front right brake line, that often is just about welded to the red hot glowing exhaust.  That's also a big PITA to replace.  Iirc, I used two layers of thermal wrap on my new brake line.

Of course, check the rocker panels, and any rust underneath .
Also, check the rear brake backing plates.  Also, check to see if you can get new ones, if they are needed.
For Intrigues, it's "sorry!".

It sounds like you're familiar with that model.
So, you hopefully know what parts are hard/impossible to get.

Iirc, I got the last GM OEM plugs for my Olds Quad 4 engine.
My two Olds Quad 4 engines both hate every plug that isn't 100% OEM spec.  It's almost like GM put in secure serial numbers in those spark plugs, and they are read telepathically by the PCM. 

Good Luck!
 

Edited July 10, 2020 by Cutlass350

[jimmyfloyd]

make sure the front subframe mounts are not rusted out, and the rear trailing arms.