jiggity76 Posted May 28, 2020 Report Posted May 28, 2020 (edited) When I first brought my International home 5 years ago and put a battery in it, I noticed there was a weird little "click" noise that would happen right after I would close the doors. No one could figure out what it was. After getting the illuminated driver's door keylock ring working, I now notice it coincides with when the ring light goes off, same exact time. Like it's on a timer or something. Manual says 3-5 seconds. Mystery solved! Not crazy after all! Well... 20200522_151827.mp4 Edited May 28, 2020 by jiggity76 Quote
digitaloutsider Posted May 28, 2020 Report Posted May 28, 2020 It's not a relay, it's the safety belt retractor. When the door handle is pulled, it keeps the retractor from locking up when you open the door (presumably because you're using the seat belts the "automatic" way). Quote
jiggity76 Posted May 28, 2020 Author Report Posted May 28, 2020 (edited) 11 minutes ago, digitaloutsider said: It's not a relay, it's the safety belt retractor. When the door handle is pulled, it keeps the retractor from locking up when you open the door (presumably because you're using the seat belts the "automatic" way). So it's the little click noise AFTER I close the door, at the end of the video? Hmm, interesting. I thought it had something to do with the interior lights or key lock light going out like it was on a relay. Thank you! Edited May 28, 2020 by jiggity76 Quote
digitaloutsider Posted May 28, 2020 Report Posted May 28, 2020 Yeah, that's it returning to the normal inertia lock mode. Maybe they just tapped into that circuit for the lock light, but that's what the click you're hearing is. jiggity76 1 Quote
jiggity76 Posted May 28, 2020 Author Report Posted May 28, 2020 (edited) 19 minutes ago, digitaloutsider said: Yeah, that's it returning to the normal inertia lock mode. Maybe they just tapped into that circuit for the lock light, but that's what the click you're hearing is. Awesome! This has been bugging me for literally 5 years now! Hey, what's your take on fuel sending units? I've found some replacement NOS ones but are these obsolete now? Should I get a new design one with maybe better technology that may be more accurate? Here's my original one. I'm not sure if I should got an NOS one or a new gen one? Edited May 28, 2020 by jiggity76 Quote
digitaloutsider Posted May 28, 2020 Report Posted May 28, 2020 Is your sending unit bad or the pump itself? Quote
jiggity76 Posted May 28, 2020 Author Report Posted May 28, 2020 The digital dash is reading at a full tank when there is only 2-3 gallons. Pump is definitely bad but not sure about the sending unit. Quote
55trucker Posted May 28, 2020 Report Posted May 28, 2020 Greg, that much discrepancy in the gauge reading vs what's in the tank is more than just the float being a little out of calibration. When we were discussing this some time ago & I made an alteration to my float position it was only off by a little less than a quarter of a tank. That's not much movement on the float arm. I don't think that an NOS piece will cause you issues, it's a pretty simple device, if it's a domestic piece I'd lean to that before an asian offshore item. jiggity76 1 Quote
jiggity76 Posted May 28, 2020 Author Report Posted May 28, 2020 2 hours ago, 55trucker said: Greg, that much discrepancy in the gauge reading vs what's in the tank is more than just the float being a little out of calibration. When we were discussing this some time ago & I made an alteration to my float position it was only off by a little less than a quarter of a tank. That's not much movement on the float arm. I don't think that an NOS piece will cause you issues, it's a pretty simple device, if it's a domestic piece I'd lean to that before an asian offshore item. Thank you. Yes, I think an NOS one is the way to go. I've found a couple and ordered them already. I want one for the STE. If the STE or sedans have a different one and I can't use it, at least I'll have a spare for the International. Thanks for your help and you too Digital! Quote
55trucker Posted May 28, 2020 Report Posted May 28, 2020 To test the fuel gauge & sender................. jiggity76 1 Quote
jiggity76 Posted May 28, 2020 Author Report Posted May 28, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, 55trucker said: To test the fuel gauge & sender................. Oh my goodness. So something might be going on with the sender or harness then. I say this because both of my clusters are showing the tank being full. My original one and my spare one thats currently in the car. In other words, it can't be a bad cluster since both of them are saying the tank is full when it's not. Edited May 28, 2020 by jiggity76 Quote
Schurkey Posted May 29, 2020 Report Posted May 29, 2020 Fuel gauge reading full, or OVER full when the tank is empty or significantly less than full? Nearly always a high-resistance or open connection (broken wire) between gauge and sending unit. jiggity76 1 Quote
jiggity76 Posted May 30, 2020 Author Report Posted May 30, 2020 So....what's the fix if I do have a broken wire? I'm a little worried now. Quote
Schurkey Posted May 30, 2020 Report Posted May 30, 2020 (edited) Find the break, strip the wire on both sides. If the wire is green, cut it back until it's copper-colored, add wire as needed. Splice (crimp and solder) 'em together, heat-shrink to seal out moisture. Edited May 30, 2020 by Schurkey jiggity76 1 Quote
jiggity76 Posted May 30, 2020 Author Report Posted May 30, 2020 7 hours ago, Schurkey said: Find the break, strip the wire on both sides. If the wire is green, cut it back until it's copper-colored, add wire as needed. Splice (crimp and solder) 'em together, heat-shrink to seal out moisture. I think I can handle that! Thanks so much! Quote
rockfangd Posted May 31, 2020 Report Posted May 31, 2020 The idea of the seatbelt on these was actually ingenious but just not thoroughly thought out. The fact of not having to remove the seatbelt to enter and exit is nice but fighting with a door being pulled closed by the seatbelt calls for some foul language. I never used them on my W-Body. That was the click that was heard. Ford was not any better. Nothing like being strangled by the automatic belt as you close the door. jiggity76 1 Quote
jiggity76 Posted May 31, 2020 Author Report Posted May 31, 2020 9 minutes ago, rockfangd said: The idea of the seatbelt on these was actually ingenious but just not thoroughly thought out. The fact of not having to remove the seatbelt to enter and exit is nice but fighting with a door being pulled closed by the seatbelt calls for some foul language. I never used them on my W-Body. That was the click that was heard. Ford was not any better. Nothing like being strangled by the automatic belt as you close the door. I'm probably the only guy on the planet who liked the motorized seat belts. Quote
Pontiac6KSTEAWD Posted June 1, 2020 Report Posted June 1, 2020 On 5/31/2020 at 10:10 AM, rockfangd said: Ford was not any better. Nothing like being strangled by the automatic belt as you close the door. Or conked in the head because you werent sitting in the seat square. Had them on my Old Eagle Premier. My Mom and Dad had them on their Subaru's too. Mom was always asking me to cut them out. Quote
rockfangd Posted June 1, 2020 Report Posted June 1, 2020 lmao, and the useless lap belt. Never used it. The shoulder belt is automatic but the lap belt is optional.../ Love the Picture in your sig btw. Miss Pontiac. End Hijack Quote
1987 GMC Jimmy Posted June 10, 2020 Report Posted June 10, 2020 I always wondered what that noise was! Thanks for clearing it up!!! Quote
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