Front Strut Cartridge Replacement- 1994 Cutlass Supreme

[bluecalais79]

Anyone out there ever replace their front strut cartridges in their CS, I'd like to take a crack at it and save a repair bill. I know I'll need a special tool that I see goes for about $50 to $55 on E Bay. But after seeing a video showing someone doing this job on a 1994 Buick (Regal?) W Body, this looks like something I can do. I have the KYB cartridges but I'd also look to be replacing any and all parts on the way in, and I have a too to drain the oil.

Any feedback would certainly be appreciated. The rears are all set, my Mechanic just got done installing them, including that FSTB in the trunk.

[oldmangrimes]

I've done it on my 95 Cutlass vert, it wasn't too bad.   I ordered the special tool, you might be able to find it cheaper from someone who is selling their used one, or rent it from an auto parts store.   One thing I had a problem with on one side was that I had to apply some horizontal force to get things lined up in order to re-assemble the parts into the opening.    Also, I made a mistake of selling the special tool right after I installed the struts (I needed the cash).   Because a few months later I started hearing a clunk on one side, and once I realized that one of the struts had come loose, I had to re-buy the special tool and tighten it back up.   I kept that tool, and then now of course I haven't needed it for the last few years it's just collecting dust.   I'd ship my tool to you to use, but Murphy's Law dictates that the day after I would ship it then I would need it, guaranteed lol.    Anyway, make sure you torque things down properly when re-assembling everything.    

Another thing I remember is that the installation uses a different combination of tools, the KYBs I installed had a different nut on top than the old ones I pulled out.    

I didn't notice any oil in mine when I changed them, but I wasn't the original owner so probably the previous owner had already changed them once.      

[bluecalais79]

Thanks, the shop wanted over $700 to do this job but I think they had in mind changing the entire mechanism, not the cartridge itself. I watched that You Tube video again last night, as long a I have ALL the replacement parts at the ready I think this is one job I can do that will save big bucks on the whole.

I just sunk $3400 into it getting it back up to being roadworthy after 8 years of neglect/abuse by my Dad & Brother, and since I'm the original owner and would really like to see my nephew get this car, it is all surely worth it.

No turning back.

 

[pitzel]

Its not a particularly hard job.  But one caveat -- if your spring seats use the GM powder coating, rather than the paint, then a full disassembly of the entire tower is necessary to inspect the coil spring seat.  I'm not sure if 1994 cars used powder coat or painted parts.  But unfortunately the powder coat parts, the powder coat fails, and eventually causes failure of the spring seat.  Even in climates in which not much salt is used.  

Otherwise, one runs the risk of having the spring seat fail, which can be quite a serious issue.  

If a shop wants $700, they should be pulling the whole knuckle, right down to the ball joint and the axle, compressing the spring on an external spring compressor, inspecting and replacing the spring seat if necessary, and then reassembling.  

If you need new spring seats, they're cheap on Rockauto, like $3-$5 a side including bearing.  Make sure you use some paint to mark the positions of everything so you can put it back together correctly.

Edited March 26, 2020 by pitzel

[bluecalais79]

Aye thanks, this is good info.

[bluecalais79]

Job done. I did one a weekend due to honeydolist time restraints. The 2nd one took half the time the first one did due to knowing how to get it done. MAJOR, major ride improvement. Had do file away some of the holes for the FSTB but no big deal. It's all in and I will never have to deal with that job again. I replaced both black rubber insulator/bushings but only one yellow bumper as the holes in the KYB bumpers were to small and I had to gouge them out a bit which I found was really stupid. One of the original bumpers was used as it was in good shape but one fell apart when I removed it.

My big mistake with the first one was I was not on level ground which caused a pitch forward as soon as I unbolted the unit. For the 2nd one I was on dead level ground. Big Help.

Next will be 4 wheel alignment at my local shop and it's a done deal.

[Mark 1997 Cutlass Coupe]

Did you end up buying the special tool to take the cartridge out, or did your parts store have one to borrow? Did it change the ride height? My 97 rides terribly on rough roads, and I'm hoping I'll have the same positive results you did. Finally, which parts did you end up buying for the job? Thanks for your help, I desperately need to do this!

[bluecalais79]

Yes indeed, I bought all the special tools needed for this job, and as I am NEVER going to do this job again I can sell you what I used if you want to consider buying it.  The only thing that broke was the T-50 socket fitting that came with the kit, I knew that was going to happen. I recommend getting a socket that isn't junk.

[bluecalais79]

I either did a bad job, one of the struts I bought from rock auto were a dud, or both. The passengers side has since taken a dump on me. Off to the shop it goes come springtime. I will never attempt this job again. 

[oldmangrimes]

Sorry to hear.   It's been almost two years, how many miles did you drive before it had problems again?   I'd be curious to hear what the shop had to do.   Did the strut leak out or did one of the supporting pieces break?   I've been way over 50,000miles on mine, they aren't as tight as they used to be but not needing replacement yet.   I think I kept the special tools, my car just might live long enough to need a third (or fourth?) set on the front.   My rear struts need replacement again, but I got over 100,000 miles on the second set so that seems about right.   

[bluecalais79]

I did it. I will never trust myself again on this job, LOL. 

[GTP091]

Huh. It’s a fair bit of dorking around to service the front strut assembly but not really all that hard.  Did the shock shit the bed or are you having an issue with the bearing?  You can take the shock right or of the top tower.  To each his own though.  

[bluecalais79]

I think the shock went out on me, there's alot of noise going on in there. I'll be looking to get most of the front end rebuilt this spring, I'll just add this to the list. My brother did a heck of a number on it on those North New Jersey roads for the 18 months and 10,000 he had it before turning it back over to me. I bought this car new in 1994 so I know what I can expect. True, it's only new once, but I have got to improve on it. Now. 

I'd really like to take this car to the 2022 Olds Nationals this July 6-9 as a visit to Nashville Motor Speedway for some laps on the track is in the offing. But, if I can't get it where I want it the white 1996 CS will get the nod. 

[Tornado_Flame]

This was a good read, thanks for the info and I hope things are better for you bluecalais79. A few weeks ago I had the rear strut assembly replaced in my 94 Cutlass vert LQ1, and they are fantastic - original ride quality and better. I will be replacing the front strut cartridges soon as well. The assembly and several other key components don’t exist anymore, so I’ll have to use what OE is still on there. My shop quoted me $500 because it’s allegedly a 6-hour job. I just wish I knew what exactly GM meant by special suspension package back in 94 lol i honestly never knew if it was any different than the coupe - they road so similarly.

[Schurkey]

I'd expect firmer valving in the struts, and stiffer springs on the "sport/special" suspension.  Also faster ratio rack 'n' pinion, maybe with firmer steering to provide more feedback.  Larger sway bars front and rear.

[bluecalais79]

I've found a shop that will do the front strut cartridges, and as an added bonus, by sheer dumb luck I located and bought an ADDCO 474 rear sway bar which they will also install. I gave up looking for one of these years ago but while looking for something else on Amazon I stumbled on just one they had in stock. Its now in my garage waiting to be installed. 

I just placed in another post regarding the front strut tower brace being 2 different 3.4 versions and I was wondering if anyone had ever seen the version wherein it's bent in 2 spots to account for the intake manifold.. I need to get another one of these 3.4 bars as the one on the car now will probably be no good as its mangled up and will more than likely fall apart. 

[rich_e777]

Yes that one is bent to allow the length to run up next to the hood gasket and flattened on the drivers side to get around the manifold. The 3100 front tower bar wont fit over a 3.4 but the 3.4 LQ1 bar will fit over a 3100 easy. Take what you have to a guy with a welder and they should be able to fix it easier and cheaper than finding another.

Does your car already have a rear sway bar? if not they might need a set of brackets that bolt through the frame that the inner mounts bolt to. 

[bluecalais79]

Just bought it. Thanks Rich but I badly bent the one that's currently in it accidentally twice. I also had to gouge out the holes where its bolted in, the thing is a mess. When I installed it, I had to bend it back and I'm confident it's going to just fall apart when it is removed.

Yep, mine is the 3.4 package 1994 Cutlass Supreme so it's got the factory FE-3 sway bar. The ADDCO 474 is considerably thicker and comes with all the brackets & bushings.

I've also got the rear upper strut tower brace currently in the car someone was selling on this site a few years back, I got his last one. 

This car is going to handle a world better when all this stuff is done. 

Edited September 28, 2022 by bluecalais79

[rich_e777]

OK cool, those brackets arent found anywhere else so as long as you have them you should be good to go. The RTSB make a difference as well and double as a hardpoint for a better trunk light.

[bluecalais79]

Not to mention one heck of a great hanger for socks! I've already used it for that.

[bluecalais79]

Just got the car back from the shop, they advised the "brand new" KYB's I got from Rock Auto were both bad, so, I wasn't completely at fault for the botched job I did. But, I apparently did not tighten the RH enough and it was  loose.

I also used the wrong rubber piece you smack in above the strut cartridge into the tube, I used NOS GM when I should have used KYB.

Anyway, I can now drive it safely, all is well, it was worth the wait. However, due to rust issues and muffler placement issues the ADDCO 474 rear sway bar was not installed. I'll be holding that back for when the exhaust system needs to be replaced, not far off as they are original.