Engine Support tool vs LQ1

[rich_e777]

I have a need to drop the subframe on my 1995 Vert to do the mounts, work on the steering rack and replace the oil pan and gaskets as well as anything else I can get at while I have access. Ive never used one of the engine bay support bars and I`m gong to have to be under this thing for a few minutes to get a jackstand under the tranny. I think I have it in the right position but for saftey`s sake its smart to ask if I`m going about this correctly. 

For the passenger side or "front" of the engine I thought to use the black bracket just behind the P/S pump, if this is suitable to use should I have a bolt-on hook to snag that loop or use a nut and bolt to secure the chain to it?

 

[rich_e777]

For the drivers side or "rear" of the engine I thought I might be able to use a tranny bell house bolt If got another chain the bolt could fit through. Trying to point to the one inline with the bar here, if there is a better way to go about it I`m all ears.

[55trucker]

The front lifting *eye*  is centered enough to allow that end to come up relatively level, for the the back end I would consider using a short 1 ton lifting sling/chain combination wrapped entirely under the trans on the inside of the tailshaft extension positioned to clear the rear of the oilpan.

A sufficiently strong ratcheting tie-down would also serve to do the job, seeing as they have hooks on both ends no chains would be needed.

Edited February 9, 2020 by 55trucker

[rich_e777]

Theres a bit more confidence then, I appreciate that tip. Bracket on the front, wrap around on the rear, thats the way I`ll go about it. It probably looks like Ive put more work than needed into this but I`m putting in all new hoses, gaskets, o-rings etc along the way to keep this car going well into the future. Many thanks to the PO for keeping an old car like this up all those years, shes here to stay.

[55trucker]

I will find myself in this exact situation, come the spring I need to get the subframe out to do clean up, replace the exhaust pipe flange fasteners, replace the PS lines for good measure.

Going to the GM Nationals this year ( missed it too many times for problems that sneek up & get in the way). 1st gen Grand Prix's don't make appearances very often.

[White93z34]

just be careful of how much, if at all you apply lateral force to the rear hook point. I've seen way too many LQ1s with a broken tang off the timing cover due to that.

[55trucker]

The idea is not use the rear lifting eye at all, the sling bypasses the eye entirely, the ends of the sling go directly to the lifting hook.

[rich_e777]

The timing cover doesn't look like it`d much fun to take off so definitely want to avoid damaging that. I`m going to leave the dogbone a little loose and use a few scissor jacks and 2x4s to help keep the engine/trans in place. I dont think there is any way around not pulling the axle nuts and separating the axle from the spindle so that`ll have to happen. Ive watched a few videos on this tool and they`re saying to lift the engine with a jack then tighten the tool as you instead of lifting with the tool. HD strap you just ratchet away. This is exciting, ive never done anything this big before.

[rich_e777]

Thanks for the replies, I used the bracket loop by the rear head and snaked a HD strap around the transmission and it works just fine. Scissor jack from the trunk is being used underneath on the solid corner next to the pan to hold some weight to keep it in place. 

[jiggity76]

16 minutes ago, rich_e777 said:

Thanks for the replies, I used the bracket loop by the rear head and snaked a HD strap around the transmission and it works just fine. Scissor jack from the trunk is being used underneath on the solid corner next to the pan to hold some weight to keep it in place. 

Holy cow!  That looks like an operation alright!  Looking good and glad your doing it so we can all learn from this.  Thanks to the other members as well in helping you to be safe in getting the job done. 

Again, what all are you changing out?  Us LQ1 guys are going to need to do this at some point including me.  Are you doing an alternator change out since this would be a prime time?  I love you kitty too!  I have a grey boy myself and love him to pieces!  Look forward to seeing more of your progress and please be careful my friend!

His name is Shadow!

 

[rich_e777]

Thats the supervisor and he reminds me constantly, my sister couldnt keep him years ago and just sort of showed up with him, 12-13 years later I`m now his human.

A few things going on here, most pending was the rear subframe bushings were soggy and the front couldnt be aligned according to the Goodyear tech and my floor jack slid off the subframe on to the oil pan and I worried the oil pump might be damaged. Also a P/S fluid leak at the sensor or line, seepage from the pan gasket, the metal coolant line running down the passenger side I wanted to paint and put a protective sleeve over, fix an ABS wire, all new solid Eng/Trans mounts, new C-arms and also went looking for a lost socket. 

Oil pump was absolutely fine, a good 4 inches exists between the base of the pan to the pickup tube, I just banged the dent out with a hammer and block of wood, little bit of sandpaper and black paint, good as new. Not one little bit of sludge or metal when I wiped it out either. I still want to spray the subframe down with brake cleaner before I paint it, Lowes has something just a step down from POR15 I`ll use, there was a bit of old O-ring stuck down in the R&P outlet threads which I think was causing the leak but I`ll change out the o-ring on the sensor just to be sure. Waiting on parts so I'm doing some hardscaping in the yard til then.

 

 

 

[jiggity76]

49 minutes ago, rich_e777 said:

Thats the supervisor and he reminds me constantly, my sister couldnt keep him years ago and just sort of showed up with him, 12-13 years later I`m now his human.

A few things going on here, most pending was the rear subframe bushings were soggy and the front couldnt be aligned according to the Goodyear tech and my floor jack slid off the subframe on to the oil pan and I worried the oil pump might be damaged. Also a P/S fluid leak at the sensor or line, seepage from the pan gasket, the metal coolant line running down the passenger side I wanted to paint and put a protective sleeve over, fix an ABS wire, all new solid Eng/Trans mounts, new C-arms and also went looking for a lost socket. 

Oil pump was absolutely fine, a good 4 inches exists between the base of the pan to the pickup tube, I just banged the dent out with a hammer and block of wood, little bit of sandpaper and black paint, good as new. Not one little bit of sludge or metal when I wiped it out either. I still want to spray the subframe down with brake cleaner before I paint it, Lowes has something just a step down from POR15 I`ll use, there was a bit of old O-ring stuck down in the R&P outlet threads which I think was causing the leak but I`ll change out the o-ring on the sensor just to be sure. Waiting on parts so I'm doing some hardscaping in the yard til then.

 

 

 

LOL!  He's doing a good job and so are you!  Wow, this is cool seeing a subframe all out in the open like this!  Do all the Supreme's and W-bodies share the same frame then?  It's look really solid as well.  What's that pan area there on the right side?  Is that the motor mount or is that on the left side?  Are all these bushings and such easy to find new replacements for?

[jiggity76]

Are you putting like a protective plastic sheathing over that metal line going down the passenger side?  Very glad your oil pan and bottom end is ok!

[55trucker]

2 hours ago, rich_e777 said:

 

 

Oil pump was absolutely fine, a good 4 inches exists between the base of the pan to the pickup tube, I just banged the dent out with a hammer and block of wood, little bit of sandpaper and black paint, good as new.

 

 

 

 

4 inches?

The oil pump pickup screen should be approx 1 inch off the inside surface of the pan. It's that low to limit cavitation issues.

[Schurkey]

No better time than now to replace ball joints, (if needed) control arm, and PS rack bushings.

Consider struts/bearings, springs, tie rod ends, and brakes as well.

4 inches from pickup to pan doesn't seem reasonable.

Edited April 12, 2020 by Schurkey

[rich_e777]

I fudged my wording a bit, y'all is correct.

Theres a semi-circular plate about halfway down the inside of the pan and inside this plate cutout is where the pickup sits. The pick up screen seems to be about 2 inches from the very bottom of the pan like you say, that pick up tube is pretty sturdy and seems like it would break rather than bend. A new one is $140 by Melling and current one is 25 y/o with 257k miles, why risk it? The old one will make a nice shelf doodad in my cave.

Yes that plate is where the engine mounts sit, the 3100 on my 1994 use the 2 holes on the lip and the LQ1 uses the ones on the bottom. The trans mount bolts to a removable plate on the other side. I do need to attend to some surface rust on that coolant pipe and thought to wrap it something or maybe just take it off and paint it while I can. There is indeed one bushing insert on the rack and it will need to be replaced too, other bolt is just a hole, no bushing. She has new calipers and rubber hoses, pads are old enough to be considered just broken in, I put all that on last year, not even 100mi on those parts.