TRW Keyless Entry module

[Quaraxkad]

So, I found out my car had the factory installed keyless entry system, I honestly didn't even know that was an option on this car. I checked the manual and it says to ground the service terminal in the trunk, and the locks should cycle locked and unlocked to confirm it's entering programming mode. I grounded the terminal, and nothing happened. I checked around the forum and found mentions of bad solder joints, so I pulled out the rear seat and took out the module. I don't see any bad solder joints, it actually all looks like it's in pretty decent shape. I'm not an electronics expert, so I wouldn't know where to begin in diagnosing this module. Are they commonly found in w-bodies? Should I just go to the junkyard and locate a few, maybe one of them works? What cars would have this same module? 1st Gen W's? All W's? Even other GMs?

[digitaloutsider]

Resolder all the joints. If the fuse is intact, the locks should cycle when you ground the lead in the trunk. Even if the joints "look okay", the box is still suspect. 

[ron350]

Does your TRW module box have a part # on it?

Edited December 13, 2019 by ron350

[Quaraxkad]

1 hour ago, digitaloutsider said:

Resolder all the joints. If the fuse is intact, the locks should cycle when you ground the lead in the trunk. Even if the joints "look okay", the box is still suspect. 

I'll give it a shot, but my soldering skills are sub-par!

 

48 minutes ago, ron350 said:

Does your TRW module box have a part # on it?

10063538. I checked a GM parts store and found this list of other cars that it fits:

Buick Regal 2DR Base     1989, 1990, 1991, 1992, 1994
Buick Regal 2DR CUSTOM     1989, 1990, 1991, 1992, 1994
Buick Regal 2DR GRAN SPORT     1992, 1994
Buick Regal 2DR LIMITED     1989, 1990, 1991, 1992
Buick Regal 4DR Base     1990, 1991, 1992, 1994
Buick Regal 4DR CUSTOM     1991, 1992, 1994
Buick Regal 4DR GRAN SPORT     1992, 1994
Buick Regal 4DR LIMITED     1991, 1992, 1994
Chevrolet BLAZER     1991, 1992, 1993, 1994
Chevrolet Caprice 4DR Base     1992
Chevrolet Caprice 4DR LS     1992
Chevrolet S10     1991, 1992, 1993, 1994
GMC JIMMY 2DR     1991, 1992, 1993, 1994
GMC JIMMY 4DR     1991, 1992, 1993, 1994
GMC Pickup Base     1991, 1992, 1993, 1994
GMC TYPHOON     1991, 1992, 1993, 1994
Oldsmobile BRAVADA 2DR     1991, 1992, 1993, 1994
Oldsmobile BRAVADA 4DR     1991, 1992, 1993, 1994
Oldsmobile Cutlass 2DR Base     1988, 1989, 1990, 1991, 1992, 1994
Oldsmobile Cutlass 2DR SUPREME     1989, 1990, 1991, 1992, 1994
Oldsmobile Cutlass 2DR SUPREME INT     1992
Oldsmobile Cutlass 4DR Base     1990, 1991, 1992, 1994
Oldsmobile Cutlass 4DR SUPREME     1989, 1990, 1991, 1992, 1994
Oldsmobile Cutlass 4DR SUPREME INT     1992
Pontiac Grand Prix 2DR Base     1988, 1989, 1990, 1991, 1992, 1994
Pontiac Grand Prix 2DR GT     1991, 1992
Pontiac Grand Prix 2DR LE     1988, 1989, 1990, 1991
Pontiac Grand Prix 2DR SE     1988, 1989, 1990, 1991, 1992, 1994
Pontiac Grand Prix 4DR Base     1990, 1991, 1992, 1994
Pontiac Grand Prix 4DR LE     1990, 1991, 1992
Pontiac Grand Prix 4DR SE     1991, 1992, 1994
Pontiac Grand Prix 4DR STE     1990, 1991, 1992

That's a *lot* of cars to search through at the junkyard! Plus, many of them have different mounting locations. Easiest thing to do would probably be check the RPO code list, but 1. I don't know if all of them would use the same as mine (AU0), 2. not all of the cars will still have their RPO sticker, and 3. it's likely that other model numbers will work as well.

[jiggity76]

I can at least tell you my 91 Cutlass International and 93 Grand Prix STE have the same RPO code AU0 Keyless Entry System.

[Quaraxkad]

3 hours ago, digitaloutsider said:

Resolder all the joints. If the fuse is intact, the locks should cycle when you ground the lead in the trunk. Even if the joints "look okay", the box is still suspect. 

It worked! Knowing I'm no good  at soldering, and that there are probably 100 solder joints, I opted for a workaround that I've successfully restored electronics with in the past: a heat gun. Applied at a safe distance against the back of the circuit board, juuuust enough heat to melt and rejoin any cracks or weak joints. Hooked it back up, grounded the connector, *click* *click* *thunk*. Door locks and trunk latch all cycled! Now I just need a remote and I should be good to go.

[digitaloutsider]

Glad it worked for you! The solder they used is junk and it may very likely become brittle and fail again. If it does, go through and re-do it with good leaded solder and it'll be good for life. IIRC, there are only a few joints that actually fail that cause the problem. @White93z34 would know the specifics better than I do.

[Quaraxkad]

I went back and looked at the thread where I saw resoldering mentioned, and it actually has a picture of exactly which joints to resolder.

 

[ron350]

Quarxkad you are very good at finding information.

Would you mind sharing your secret how you found the part interchange for part #10063538?

Thanks Ron.

[Quaraxkad]

I found that here: https://www.wholesalegmpartsonline.com/products/RECEIVER-Door-Electric-and-Vacuum-Locks-Door-Lock-Remote-Control-Inside/2537332/10063538.html

Click the "What this fits" tab, and "Show More" for a complete list of years and trims. Other GM parts sites have the same feature, but not all of them are this specific and sometimes are missing certain models.

[ron350]

Thanks I did not know about that one.

The only one I knew about was the AC Delco interchange which does not seem to work with GM long numbers.

https://parts-catalog.acdelco.com/catalog/catalog_search.php

Edited December 13, 2019 by ron350

[jimmyfloyd]

What was the FCC ID Code for that module so you can find the correct remotes?

 

[jimmyfloyd]

I have these kicking around.

[Quaraxkad]

2 hours ago, jimmyfloyd said:

What was the FCC ID Code for that module so you can find the correct remotes?

 

I didn't get that off the box... Is it necessary? I already ordered one on ebay, hopefully it works!

[White93z34]

At least you have the TRW one. The earlier ones were total trash.

I usually take lacquer thinner and clean the podding off the back of the PCB so you can work with it. a magnifying glass will show the failed joints on the large ICs on the PCB

The best method I've had is to remove most of the old solder and then flow new in. Otherwise it seems to only be a temporary fix. Generally I'll re-touch all the joints that I can reasonably do.

[jimmyfloyd]

On 12/17/2019 at 5:32 PM, Quaraxkad said:

I didn't get that off the box... Is it necessary? I already ordered one on ebay, hopefully it works!

The FCC ID is the identifier that links the two. You'll notice on the back of the olds one the FCC ID is ABO0104T. The Module that would go with this would be ABO0104R. The R and T denote Receiver and Transmitter.

 

Whether others will work is a good question. I have always matched them, but there is a chance similar ones will work. 

[Quaraxkad]

Got the remote from eBay today, went to program it, grounded the terminal in the trunk and nothing happened. So it seems my heat gun was a temporary fix! Unfortunately I already put the rear shelf and seats back in! I'll probably try again this time with solder, and possibly try to pull a few more backup modules from the junkyard. A 99 Lumina 3.8 showed up at the JY a few days ago, and it's got a bunch of stuff I need to tie up loose ends on my L67 swap so I'll be there anyway.

[ron350]

 

If you resolder the complete circuit board with 2% silver electronic solder you will not have any more trouble with it. Radio Shack sold high quality 2% silver bearing solder under part # 64-013 that I could not tell from the Kester 2% solder from MCM

It would not be a bad idea to check the electrolytic capacitors in that box for leaks and high esr.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited December 21, 2019 by ron350

[Quaraxkad]

I gave the heat gun one more try, and again it was a temporary fix. So today I tried my hand at a more proper repair and as I expected, knowing how terrible I am at soldering, it didn't come out all that great! It definitely *looks* worse than it did before. But when I plugged it back in and grounded the plug in the trunk, the locks cycled. Unfortunately now my remote doesn't seem to work anymore! It *did* work after both heat gun attempts, but not this time. So... Perhaps I fixed a bad solder joint but broke something else! Both batteries in the remote test at ~3.1v, which should be a full change. Even if I got it working I still need to remove, clean, and lubricate the lock mechanism because they stick on both doors and won't lock or unlock using the electric switches. Anybody have this problem before and know exactly which part needs lubrication? I won't have the luxury of a garage for a few months so I'll take all the shortcuts I can!

Edited February 7, 2020 by Quaraxkad

[pitzel]

Those stupid remotes have issues themselves as well.  With batteries making contact with the PCB.  

[White93z34]

TBH, I've never had an issue with a remote, always the dumb modules.

I've rebuilt a bunch of these things. Here's what I learned:

The solder they used is fairly bad. I just clean all of it off at this point. The work HAS to be nice and clean. When I still had garbage tools and garbage solder I could make them work for a period of time before they became inconsistent and/or stopped working again. The one in my Z34 is suffering from that right now. But I have to work up the desire to rip apart half the rear of my interior to get at the dumb thing.

The one I did for my TGP was after I started doing better work and its been great for years now. I prefer 60/40 lead solder, YMMV there. 

[mfewtrail]

6 hours ago, White93z34 said:

The one in my Z34 is suffering from that right now. But I have to work up the desire to rip apart half the rear of my interior to get at the dumb thing.

It would have been nice if they would have added a bit of wire length and mounted it to the underside of the package tray sheet metal in the trunk.

[White93z34]

Well in this case its my own dumb fault. I added factory keyless to the car and I still did it the oem way and made it hard on myself 

[dougg3]

Hey everyone. I don't have a W-body vehicle, but I'm adding factory keyless entry to my 1994 S10 Blazer and it uses the same TRW module (GM part 10063538). Found this thread on Google, and it sure has a lot of interesting info! I hope you don't mind me posting a question about my receiver. This thread seems recent enough!

I got a keyless entry receiver module, and before I start messing with my wiring in the Blazer, I decided to hook it up on my test bench and verify that it works. So I hooked up pins A and D to 12V, and E to ground. If I ground pin C, which is the pin that would go to the programming cable, it seems to enter programming mode, because I hear the relays inside click. That's a good sign...

But...then a few seconds later, the relays will click again. And a few seconds later, again. Over and over again. It varies. Sometimes it's 2 seconds, sometimes 5 seconds. Pressing a button on my remotes doesn't directly cause anything to happen. White93z34, have you seen this problem before? Could it just be the same issue of needing to redo all the solder joints and make sure the electrolytic caps are all good? I've tried a few different power supplies, and I even tried hooking it up to a car battery in case my power supplies weren't supplying enough juice and causing the module to reset when the relays activate. No matter what I do, as long as the programming mode cable is grounded, the relays just seem to keep clicking over and over again. I even tried adding resistors to ground on the other pins to simulate having something actually hooked up, but nothing changed. Any ideas?

Thanks!

[bluecalais79]

On another note, I am looking to buy the module 10063538 as the one in my 1994 Cutlass I got back from my dad is dead. Anyone know where I can get one? I'll take used if it works,

thx