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Remote Door lock reciever process not working 95 CSC


WillCut

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Anyone know if the RKE module controls the door lock when the car is put in gear?

To blow fuse #39 I can:

1) put car in reverse, the doors will lock.

2) press the unlock while still in reverse. Doors will open

3) pull out of driveway

4) as soon as I put the car into drive the fuse will pop. it sounds like the door is trying to re-lock but fuse blows.

 

I've tried unlocking/locking the door like 20 times and that doesnt blow the fuse. This car is weird! I wouldn't care if that fuse didnt take out my damn tach and worse of all the damn chime will go off if you turn the lights on (with the car running!)

 

 

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1 hour ago, WillCut said:

Anyone know if the RKE module controls the door lock when the car is put in gear?

This car is weird! I wouldn't care if that fuse didnt take out my damn tach and worse of all the damn chime will go off if you turn the lights on (with the car running!)

I'm not sure.  I had the back seat out on mine yesterday and could've unhooked the RKE to see, but our timing was off, sorry man.  

I'm wondering if you just remove all of the aftermarket stuff if the majority of the electrical issues would resolve themselves?

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I thought it must have crept up and that is why I reversed everything I did and the starter. I cant for the life of me figure this out.
What the heck is the " Sensing and Diagnostic Module" is that for the airbag? I've already disconnected that under the seat.

 

Guess ill have to pull out the glove box to pull out the automatic door lock module next.

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I pulled the glove box looking for the auto door lock do-dad but wasnt there. I did find a funky soldered jumper on a pink wire that is wired to fuse #39. I recalled that I seen a stripped pink wire under the dash. so I followed it to the stripped portion and sure enough they make continuity. This pink wire runs through a ribbon cable up the steering column. I pulled the airbags/stereo controls and the fuse kept popping... Then I remembered that when I first looked under the dash that the plug for the second brake switch (I think its for the cruse control?!?!) was unplugged... so I plugged it back in... well, I pulled that sucker and both ends of the plug make continuity to the pink wire. I am at a loss but since I've pulled the connector back out it seems to have resolved the issue.

The first pic shows the pink wire jumpered with orange and black. the second shows under the dash with the stripped pink wire circled in red, the brake switch connector in blue. The yellow is a wire I added for the brake to the starter.

fuse.thumb.jpg.4b14ce125e2713fde4ef65d874274610.jpgunder_dash.thumb.jpg.2ba03b7b3f545121124bf3ddbb441d90.jpg

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At this point to adequately further diagnose the issue you really need the factory electrical service manual. One needs an accurate schematic of the car to know where everything goes.

That particular fuse interacts with so many devices without a guide to show one the route that each conductor follows makes it difficult to diagnose.

Indeed the SDM is the airbag sensor.

Edited by 55trucker
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So is this where the RKE module  is supposed to live? there is a couple of screw holes just to the left of the power top pump. If so, mines a goner. Does the wiring harness go down the back of the seats? I didn't feel like pulling them but I will if that's where they go down. I hope they didn't slash the connector off.

 

20190817_163903.thumb.jpg.2e0a9d14f0f4f28a18168390e4dd50f1.jpg

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So is this where the RKE module  is supposed to live? there is a couple of screw holes just to the left of the power top pump. If so, mines a goner. Does the wiring harness go down the back of the seats? I didn't feel like pulling them but I will if that's where they go down. I hope they didn't slash the connector off.
 
20190817_163903.thumb.jpg.2e0a9d14f0f4f28a18168390e4dd50f1.jpg

Here is the RKE module location looking at it from the trunk. It’s wrapped in blue plastic on that shelf.
a766722bb63773ce3557c005923c369b.jpg


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MemphisMan,

Thanks for the confirmation. That gave me the incentive to pull the back seats to try and find the harnesses.

I pulled the side panels out since my driver side rear window wouldn't roll down. Gave that sucker a smack with a hammer and all is well.

Luckily they didn't hack up the harness too much. I still have the aftermarket starter in there but if I can figure out how to get the !#@$# HVAC system to work than its useless and I'll have to find an RKE from the junkyard.

I modified the light bar on the basket handle to use a different switch. A little dremel action and a couple of latch switches and all my lights work with LEDs now :) I figure they would generate less heat and warp the bar that much less... holy crap those switches did NOT fare well! everything is all warped... these cars sure are interesting!

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  • 1 month later...

As an update in case someone else ever has this problem, but I kinda doubt it.

Fuse #39 ( I/P ELECTRONICS IGNITION FEED ) kept popping with the TCCBrake Switch plugged in under the brake pedal, where it belongs.

After about 30 fuses I've determined it had something to do with power steering. With the pump having so many leaking problems I had it replaced. The shop noticed that the upper hard line was pressing a wire harness against the firewall. This hard line could be reversed, releasing the pressure.

After they reversed the hard line they noticed some breaks in the wiring harness and fixed them. I suspect the power steering line would shift just enough to push one of the wires in the harness to ground or an adjacent wire. Looks like the previous owner never figured out the issue and just left the TCCBrake Switch unplugged.

I still haven't figured out how to get the HVAC activated by my remote starter but that's really low on the list :)

Thanks for all the help and suggestions!

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