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Need Advice Please


Mark1:15

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I have a 1991 Oldsmobile Convertible 3.1 V6

that has been giving me quite a fit lately. Every time I go to start it it'll run maybe ten or so minutes (if it will start) then it dies. I've recently replaced the battery,fuel filter, spark plugs and the ignition module and coils but to no avail. Any advice to get it to running again? 

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Welcome!!! I kinda wonder how fuel pressure is??? Any codes thrown??? If you don't have a Fuel Pressure Tester most any major Auto Parts store has loaner tools,,, you pay for them and when you return it they give you a full refund... It works for me,,, as long as I've got the money!!! Do you have any kind of Repair Manual??? Well hook up the tester (it threads into what looks like a tire valve stem and do what the Manual says... First is seeing what the pressure is... If that is within the specified range shut the engine off and keep an eye on the pressure gauge... If it drops quickly it could be a FPR (fuel pressure regulator)... It should hold pressure for a long time... When the one went on my 93 Z34 it wouldn't start warm... If I was going to be out of the car for only a short time I'd leave it running with the keys locked in...

Just a quick guess on my part... you didn't mention what happens when you try to restart after it dies... A check of the fuel pressure is fast, easy AND it won't cost anything... AND you'll KNOW if the fuel system is working the way it should be... Low or NO pressure could be a fuel pump... When you turn the key "ON"  but not far enough to engage the starter you should hear the fuel pump run for a couple of seconds then stop (priming)... If the fuel system checks out OK your going to have to dig a bit deeper... Possibly something when it goes into open loop when it warms up...

I haven't had or worked on a 60 degree V6 in quite a few years,,, so I am a bit foggy... In my time I did have a DOHC 3.4 (Z34) and a base model 99 Lumina with a 3100,,, the upgrade from the 3.1...

Well somebody is bound to chime in and call me a FOOL!!! 

Good luck and let us know how you make out...

Tom B...

Edited by walterdude
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Don't be a parts changer...

Test! like mentioned above, test the fuel pressure before changing any fuel components. Battery? If it cranks okay and dies while running, I do not get the logic there at all.

With that said, my guess would be the crank position sensor. Does your tach move at all when it's a crank no start?

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I have to agree with my fellow W-Body members. Need some testing done.

Can someone help me remember, does the W-Body have the fuel pump test wire hanging loosely by the drivers strut tower?

If it does, you could use that as a primer to the fuel system, and let it run. When it shuts off, if it doesnt restart, reprime the fuel system, and try again. If it starts, that you likely know its fuel system related from the FPR (fuel pressure regulator) back to the fuel tank. If it doesnt start, it could be a fuel injector getting warm, and shorting out, and since these engines run in batch fire, one injector takes out 3. Or it could be like the poster above stated, the CPS (crank position sensor), or even a ICM (Ignition Control Module). 

There are more possibilities, but testing is needed. Cant just throw parts at it.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Thank you all for your input! After some more trial and error I was able to determine the problem was with the fuse panel. After doing some extensive cleaning in the fuse panel my car is running again. I have some more work to do with the panel before it's back to 100% capacity, but I'm overjoyed to have it running again. (My apologies for such a late reply it's been a very busy month.)  Thanks again and have a blessed day!

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the fuse panel itself or was it a relay or a fuse in the panel that may get hot and overheat? seems strange that it will run 10 minutes and then crap out

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