Brodizzle83 Posted May 29, 2019 Report Share Posted May 29, 2019 Thoughts on the '91-93 Grand Prix SE coupes (3.1 V6)? Common issues with them? What's good? What's bad? What to look for? Once my debts have been paid off, I might be looking into finding a real nice one, so I wanna know what I'm in for. Pic for attention. Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyd Posted May 29, 2019 Report Share Posted May 29, 2019 Nice ones are hard to find, so you'll be doing some resto work. It's a labor of love. Most are badly rusted out, so get a good look underneath before you give it a second thought. I think 3.1's tended to have gasket issues, heads and intake, so check the oil to see if there's been any mixing between oil and coolant. Bound to have vacuum leaks too, but not hard to fix. Transmission fluid should be red, not black, and it should shift smoothly through all the gears. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted May 29, 2019 Report Share Posted May 29, 2019 Body cladding is overdone and hides rust. 3.1L is under-powered, but "OK" for a family/econo car. Rear spring will need help. New rubber pads + plastic spacer blocks at minimum. Like all older cars, EVERYTHING made of "rubber" is shot. Bushings, hoses, belts, mounts, grommets, etc. Brake booster will probably need replacement. Entire steering/suspension/brake system should be inspected. Engine mounts are suspect, as are subframe mounts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digitaloutsider Posted May 29, 2019 Report Share Posted May 29, 2019 A 3.1 MPFI really shouldn't have headgasket issues, but I've, on rare occasions, seen intake manifold gasket failures. Nothing compared to the 3x00s though. It's dog shit slow. Transmission is generally fine. Don't buy one from the North because it's probably a rustbucket. Not particularly safe, but none of the W cars are. Other than that, they're fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W30olds Posted May 30, 2019 Report Share Posted May 30, 2019 Oh and the rear monoleafs sag badly over time. Not many places to get a new one. Intake gaskets are know to leak. Window motors/regulatorsSent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55trucker Posted May 31, 2019 Report Share Posted May 31, 2019 Depending on the geographical area the vehicle is coming from (as above stated) .......rust, if the car is in a salt belt rust will get into the rocker boxes, the rear bumper rebar, the rear lifting pads area at the trailing arm mount, the rear quarters (left side fuel filler reinforcement), the front suspension member locating points, rear brake lines are a weak point for rot. All of the pre 94 cars have the small brakes, those brakes are underpowered (all of the rotors are too small, the rear calipers are too small), because of the caliper slider design the rear brakes are prone to seizing due to lack of maintenance. A/C, if it's important to you 94 is the 1st year for 134a, a 93 would require an 134a upgrade, (when I did mine I replaced the r12 compressor with a 134a compressor due to the different compressor control valves used in each). Never did really like the LH0 engine, underpowered, for 93 the trans *should* be the 4T60-E, look for *no TV cable at the throttle body* to verify that. I'm sure there's more I've left out. If you want one of this year find a nice one. jiggity76 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfewtrail Posted June 1, 2019 Report Share Posted June 1, 2019 19 hours ago, 55trucker said: A/C, if it's important to you 94 is the 1st year for 134a, a 93 would require an 134a upgrade, (when I did mine I replaced the r12 compressor with a 134a compressor due to the different compressor control valves used in each). The pre-94 compressors work fine with R134a conversions for what it's worth. 36*F vent temperatures on a 90*F day is what I get in my converted '93. I can't tell a difference in it and my '94 that came with R134a. Those control valves are available separately and should be pretty cheap these days. I personally wouldn't bother with changing one out unless it's faulty though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geologist Posted October 8, 2019 Report Share Posted October 8, 2019 Got my 92 about 7 years ago. Had some under the hood wiring problems: 1) Wiring from Crank Position Senor to ICM got oily and melted the plastic causing a short that killed the car very unpredictably (easy fix but tough to troubleshoot). 2) A bad primary radiator fan kept blowing a fuse that would kill the engine when it kicked on (easy fix once you figure out whats causing it). The speedometer has been 20% off since I bought it (common from what I have heard) so I just use a Garmin usually. So far have put about 70k on it since then with nothing more than the typical electrical engine control goodies that die now and then. It sails on the freeway and gets high 20's for mileage (exhaust is not stock though). Sure it isn't as fast as my son's 2002 Regal with a 3800, but he still says it feels pretty strong in comparison. Overall I typically pick this car when going for a road trip, it just feels like it was made for it. What everyone else has said also seems valid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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