K&R Posted April 20, 2019 Report Share Posted April 20, 2019 I don’t know if anyone else has done this but thought I would share just in case. One way to change the plugs and wires on the 3.1 motor is to take just the alternator off and you have full access to the rear plugs. No rotating the engine as explained in the factory Manuel and no ratchet straps, which I’ve seen people do. jiggity76 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jiggity76 Posted April 20, 2019 Report Share Posted April 20, 2019 Nice, I don't know if I've heard of anyone doing it this way but whatever is easiest. I might try this on my 96 CS 3.1 car. Thanks! K&R 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted April 20, 2019 Report Share Posted April 20, 2019 I usually ask Manuel as well, but he doesn’t always answer right away rich_e777, K&R, jiggity76 and 2 others 1 1 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digitaloutsider Posted April 20, 2019 Report Share Posted April 20, 2019 That's exactly how I used to do it on 3.1s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
K&R Posted April 20, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2019 1 hour ago, Psych0matt said: I usually ask Manuel as well, but he doesn’t always answer right away Stupid auto correct. Lol Psych0matt 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imp558 Posted April 21, 2019 Report Share Posted April 21, 2019 Isn't there something about putting a couple notches in the front of the cowl that the seal hides to get useful trajectory with a bunch of extensions on a 60*? Psych0matt and jiggity76 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jiggity76 Posted April 21, 2019 Report Share Posted April 21, 2019 12 minutes ago, Imp558 said: Isn't there something about putting a couple notches in the front of the cowl that the seal hides to get useful trajectory with a bunch of extensions on a 60*? Yup. Memphisman brought this to my attention and I checked on my car. No notches so I'm assuming my hasn't been subjected to that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digitaloutsider Posted April 21, 2019 Report Share Posted April 21, 2019 That's a trick for the LQ1, I don't see why it would ever be required on a 2.8/3.1. You don't have to cut it either, just bend it slightly out of the way and then bend it back. jiggity76 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jiggity76 Posted April 21, 2019 Report Share Posted April 21, 2019 I'm going to look thru some old threads and see what I need to do for mine. I'm going to change out the wires/plugs when I do the LIM gaskets. I really don't want to bend the metal lip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digitaloutsider Posted April 21, 2019 Report Share Posted April 21, 2019 With the right swivels and extensions (particularly wobbly extensions) you can get in there without doing it. jiggity76 and rich_e777 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jiggity76 Posted April 21, 2019 Report Share Posted April 21, 2019 1 minute ago, digitaloutsider said: With the right swivels and extensions (particularly wobbly extensions) you can get in there without doing it. That's good news! I have a ton of extensions and swivels. Along with my own tools, I inherited a whole bunch of other tools recently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jiggity76 Posted April 21, 2019 Report Share Posted April 21, 2019 6 hours ago, K&R said: I don’t know if anyone else has done this but thought I would share just in case. One way to change the plugs and wires on the 3.1 motor is to take just the alternator off and you have full access to the rear plugs. No rotating the engine as explained in the factory Manuel and no ratchet straps, which I’ve seen people do. I believe the radiator cap is the original one. Not very common. I also believe they used the same cap on the LQ1's. At least for the 91 model years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digitaloutsider Posted April 21, 2019 Report Share Posted April 21, 2019 Yeah, they used it until at least '93. Most have failed over the years and have been tossed in the trash. The later W car radiator caps (PN 10409635) fit the old stuff, and while they're uglier, they tend to hold up better. jiggity76 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jiggity76 Posted April 21, 2019 Report Share Posted April 21, 2019 (edited) 9 minutes ago, digitaloutsider said: Yeah, they used it until at least '93. Most have failed over the years and have been tossed in the trash. The later W car radiator caps (PN 10409635) fit the old stuff, and while they're uglier, they tend to hold up better. 10-4. I lucked out and took this one from the 89 International 3.1 parts car and put it on the 91 car. I found this NOS one and bought it for the 93 STE. I don't know if they are rare pieces but I always look for them in the yards. Looks like the STE has an aftermarket one. Yuck. Edited April 21, 2019 by jiggity76 digitaloutsider 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
K&R Posted April 21, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2019 44 minutes ago, jiggity76 said: I believe the radiator cap is the original one. Not very common. I also believe they used the same cap on the LQ1's. At least for the 91 model years. Thats interesting. It was on there when I bought it. Lol Did they go bad often? jiggity76 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jiggity76 Posted April 21, 2019 Report Share Posted April 21, 2019 Just now, K&R said: Thats interesting. It was on there when I bought it. Lol Did they go bad often? Not sure. Since your car is a low mileage one, maybe that's why it still retains it. My 89 International parts car is relatively a low mileage car too. I stole it for the 91 car. K&R 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted April 21, 2019 Report Share Posted April 21, 2019 Isn't there something about putting a couple notches in the front of the cowl that the seal hides to get useful trajectory with a bunch of extensions on a 60*?Nate did that iirc, I just used a combo of extensions (on the LQ1), takes 10 minutes jiggity76 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfewtrail Posted April 21, 2019 Report Share Posted April 21, 2019 (edited) Slaving the engine forward is still quicker than that if you're easily able to do it. Removing the alt is a solid option as well though and doesn't take a whole lot more time when removed with the bracket attached. They still make tools to help you pull the engine forward by the way. Thexton offers one. I would assume you should be able to locate some of the ones other brands used to offer years ago as well, several places made them. The dogbone has a hole for holding the engine forward if you reinsert the bolt by the way, I assume your manual should cover that. Edited April 21, 2019 by mfewtrail Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
K&R Posted April 21, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2019 6 hours ago, mfewtrail said: Slaving the engine forward is still quicker than that if you're easily able to do it. Removing the alt is a solid option as well though and doesn't take a whole lot more time when removed with the bracket attached. They still make tools to help you pull the engine forward by the way. Thexton offers one. I would assume you should be able to locate some of the ones other brands used to offer years ago as well, several places made them. The dogbone has a hole for holding the engine forward if you reinsert the bolt by the way, I assume your manual should cover that. The book does explain it that way step by step but being relatively new to the W club and project car hobby I figured l would mess that up ,no doubt. The alternator way, the farthest plug is a little tricky but not terrible to get to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snippits Posted April 22, 2019 Report Share Posted April 22, 2019 Ratchet strap is easy. Just don't roll the engine too far forward, and start putting pressure on the radiator hoses. I am due a plug change too. It's been a little bit over three years since I changed them. Guess I will keep on using the ACDelco conventional plugs AC R44LTSM since they have been doing good. New set of wires installed last plug change, so I hope they come off easy. I did use dielectric grease on the boots. K&R 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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