metallic95 Posted August 20, 2018 Report Share Posted August 20, 2018 Hello guys, Off to troubleshoot another issue with the cutlass. When I drive it on the highway or in town, the temperature typically stays under 200. Recently, I noticed when I'm idling in heavy traffic, the temperature starts to climb past 200. I got really nervous when it almost hit the 3/4 mark on the gauge and didn't seem to be going back down. I ran the heater and the traffic cleared up so the car didn't overheat, but it's never done this before so I know something has come up. My family uses this car extensively and I can't have it down for too long. I let it idle in my garage after a short drive, and it will start going past 200 with the fans not kicking in. I'm 99% sure the fans usually kicked in before halfway on the gauge. I have the service manual and I know that they kick in past 200 (212 for fan 1 IIRC), but I remember the fan coming on if you let idle long enough and the temp approaches 200. If I turn the A/C on, fan 2 will turn on. When the temp was in between halfway and the 3/4 mark, the fan still did not come on. Does this sound like a fan issue? It can idle for a few minutes in traffic without the temp climbing, but if it stays put for 10 minutes or more I believe thats when it started going past 200. I switched the fan relays and then ran the A/C, and fan 2 still came on, so I'm inclined to say the relays are not the issue. I checked for voltage where the relay plugs in, and I find 12v at both fan relay 1 and 2, even though the key is turned ON, but the engine is not running. Why would there be voltage present at the relays even when the engine is not running? Is there a better diagnostic test I can do the make sure the fans are working? I recognize that there are either 2 possibilities: either the motor is dead or the fan is not getting any power. The service manual makes reference of a 30 amp maxi-fuse for fan 1, however I can find no such fuse in the fuse box. On a side note, I just finished up a coolant flush on it (coolant was never changed by the PO), and I'm still getting bubbles in the overflow reservoir. I followed the fill procedure to the letter; I had both bleeders open, I added coolant until it started running out from the bleeders, then I shut them. I closed the radiator cap, and when I ran the engine every now and then I see a small bubble enter the reservoir. There are no deposits on the oil cap or dipstick, so I know it's not the head gasket. I'm hoping the intake gaskets are not the reason for this. Is there a better way the bleed the system? Should I try to open the bleeders while it's running? Sorry for the wall of text - any help is much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
metallic95 Posted August 20, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2018 Whoops, sorry I triple posted. I thought it wasen't submitting the thread. If a mod could close the other 2, that'd be great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imp558 Posted August 20, 2018 Report Share Posted August 20, 2018 I deleted the dupe threads, things happen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imp558 Posted August 20, 2018 Report Share Posted August 20, 2018 When I bleed I cheat. I raise the front of the car with ramps or a jack and jack stands until the radiator cap is the highest point. Then I fill the radiator and slowly squeeze the upper hose to burp the air out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digitaloutsider Posted August 20, 2018 Report Share Posted August 20, 2018 https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B001A4EAV0 Buy one of these and never spend more than 2 minutes bleeding again. Imp558 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55trucker Posted August 20, 2018 Report Share Posted August 20, 2018 2 hours ago, metallic95 said: If I turn the A/C on, fan 2 will turn on. When the temp was in between halfway and the 3/4 mark, the fan still did not come on. Does this sound like a fan issue? On a side note, I just finished up a coolant flush on it (coolant was never changed by the PO), and I'm still getting bubbles in the overflow reservoir. I followed the fill procedure to the letter; I had both bleeders open, I added coolant until it started running out from the bleeders, then I shut them. I closed the radiator cap, and when I ran the engine every now and then I see a small bubble enter the reservoir. There are no deposits on the oil cap or dipstick, so I know it's not the head gasket. I'm hoping the intake gaskets are not the reason for this. Is there a better way the bleed the system? Should I try to open the bleeders while it's running? Sorry for the wall of text - any help is much appreciated. The primary rad fan is the *left* fan (drivers side). Whenever the A/C is engaged that fan will engage, if there is an issue with that circuit the secondary fan will engage. when bleeding the system one has to allow the system to pressurize before opening both the bleeder at the heater pipe & the return side coolant neck. The heater core will clear first, then the coolant return neck. As stated a useful bleeding tool is the Lisle coolant bleed funnel, on this sort of system where the rad fill is not the highest point in the system that device will safe you a lot of frustration. It's money well spent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
metallic95 Posted August 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2018 Okay, so actually the driver side fan will turn on about halfway between the 3/4 mark and 200, and then the temp goes back down to 200. Is the passenger side fan only for heavy duty cooling? Fortunately I did manage to get the air out; I cracked open the bleeders while running until coolant started running out. I did this twice and then I took it for a short drive. The bubbles stopped coming into the overflow tank, and the heater is nice and hot. So do you guys normally see the temp gauge go past 200, then back down again? The only other thing I can think of is the car got a nice tap on the front by a piece of crap granted the ability of speech. No mechanical damage, but the air baffle behind the grille got pretty mashed up, along with the lip of the hood. Is this air baffle critical? Would it reduce the efficiency during stop and go traffic? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfewtrail Posted August 22, 2018 Report Share Posted August 22, 2018 (edited) On 8/20/2018 at 9:18 PM, metallic95 said: Okay, so actually the driver side fan will turn on about halfway between the 3/4 mark and 200, and then the temp goes back down to 200. Is the passenger side fan only for heavy duty cooling? Fortunately I did manage to get the air out; I cracked open the bleeders while running until coolant started running out. I did this twice and then I took it for a short drive. The bubbles stopped coming into the overflow tank, and the heater is nice and hot. So do you guys normally see the temp gauge go past 200, then back down again? The only other thing I can think of is the car got a nice tap on the front by a piece of crap granted the ability of speech. No mechanical damage, but the air baffle behind the grille got pretty mashed up, along with the lip of the hood. Is this air baffle critical? Would it reduce the efficiency during stop and go traffic? It's normal for it to go past 200 when stopping for any period of time because there's no longer any airflow over the radiator until the fans kick on. Once the fan comes on, the gauge should start steadily dropping. This cycle will repeat if you continue to idle the car. I don't know the fan on/off temps off-hand, but I seem to remember 217 and 227. 217 for the primary, 227 for the secondary. It's somewhere around that anyway for '95... Edited August 22, 2018 by mfewtrail Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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