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2004 Buick Regal Security light issues


Boj

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Don't see much Buick talk on here but I think we're all in the w-body family no matter what the badges are so I thought I would repost my issue here too.

My security light has been on in the gauge cluster since a month after I bought my 2004 Regal LS but didn't think much of it because it still runs and drives fine. Recently I've been fixing little things here and there on my vehicles and read into what the security light means and I believe I'm currently in fail-enable mode which gives me some worry. I've tried the 10 minute and 30 minute relearn procedure neither of which worked since the security light does not turn off after 10 minutes or even after nearly an hour which I've tried once.

I've measured the resistance on both of my keys and am getting 3750 ohms on both so I know which resistor I have to buy to start the bypass if needed. Tried cleaning the lock cylinder and a bunch of black gunk came out but the light stays on. Tried the relearn after cleaning that too and still nothing. I'm hesitant to unhook the battery for anything or pull fuses just in case I lose the fail-enable mode and get stuck with a dead Buick. 

I'm calling local electronic stores to get the resistors I need before I touch anything so I can do the quick bypass to get to work, but is there anything else I could check that may be causing the problem without me having to hack up the wiring? Bad lock cylinder or BCM possibly?

Quick list of symptoms and things I've tried:

  • Security light came on while driving
  • Car still starts and drives fine but light is always on
  • Tried cleaning key and lock cylinder, was very dirty on both but did not fix issue
  • Attempted relearn procedure but security light never turns off, I think indicating there's an issue somewhere with the system
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You're on the right track the resistor bypass is probably for you. If the car has remote start someone else's resistor could have come loose under the dash. 

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That's where I'm headed too for pure reliability sake probably. I've read the horror stories people have had with GM security systems.

I do wonder if it is just a bad connection or short somewhere though.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Took a while to get into it but success! Forgot to take pictures for anyone finding this thread later but I'll describe it best I can.

I took off the kick panel, carpet cover, metal support thing, and lower part of the plastic steering column cover to check out all the wiring. Nothing appeared to have been touched so ruled out crappy aftermarket remote starter right there. I found the cable that runs out of the ignition cylinder and followed that way under the dash to where it plugs into the rest of the wiring harness. Unhooked that connector and checked for resistance on the two terminals while the key was is in the ignition and got a big fat open signal on my multi-meter. Proper solution to my security light now would be to replace the ignition cylinder but with how much those cost and getting new keys made I went for the bypass. I cut that ignition cylinder wire about halfway up the steering column to give myself some length and went inside to solder on my resistors, then simply plugged in that same connector now with two resistors looped on the end. Turned my key and the security light went out after a second or so in the run position and off completely while running.

The wires on the ignition cylinder lead seem to be covered in a weird type of plastic that you can't really strip off. Tried a few times but just ended up taking wires out with the coating. Solution was to just burn off an inch or so with a lighter.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Congratulations! That's what i had to do one weekend after i came out a strip club and couldn't start my Cutlass convertible. Spent the night in a hotel and went to RadioShack for resistors, Harbor Freight for  $6 multimeter, and i was golden! Once I got home i soldered the joints and taped it all up. 

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