pshojo Posted June 21, 2018 Report Share Posted June 21, 2018 long time awaiting... here is the write up for installing HUD on memphisman and pshojo 95 Vert HUD. First start with LQ1 vehicle, i do not believe the 3.1L cutlasses have pigtails in harness as our Vert LQ1 did. The Harnesses already have the pigtails and operational. Notice the light switch and extra harness located behind. Remove cluster and components, as it makes it easier to access dash for cutting. There is a notch on the front dash that we measured from. Also note that under the dash already has supports built into it for a HUD. Once cut out with dremel, careful not to knick the windshield...you may test fit HUD and trim extra to fit harness of the left side. **Side note, you will have to take the top half off of the HUD to fit, due to clearance, then once installed you will need to reinstall screws for top side of HUD. ALso the dash has the square holes for clip nut, same clip nut used for radios, good to grab from junkyard. Since Cutlass doesn't have hud switch, you will need to use GP HUD Switch. I had overlays made to match my speedometer. This requires completely removing and disassembling both light switches. There are 4 small screws that hold the light switch to the bezel, the faceplate had to be removed. Unless you are ok with GP grey color, then no work required. I wanted black buttons, so i also took the switches completely apart and painted the rubber portions of the buttons. Then the most time consuming portion. Get 1 GP HUD bezel and 1 non HUD Bezel. These will need to be cut on the left side in order to fit the slight angle differences between cutlass and GP. ALso the bezel will need to be heated patiently over and over and molded to curve of dash. Its best if you have a spare junk dash to use as template. Once the bezel is molded for the dash curve, cut about 4 inches from left side and 4 1/2 inches from non hud bezel. Use part of the remaining non hud bezel to make a support for the joint you cut. Use JBweld plastic epoxy. We used a combination of clear and black (bumper) repair epoxys Also you may need to heat and mold the cut off section to match curvatures. ALso quite a bit of sanding and molding with epoxy will be required SPare dash--template.. Once you get the the HUD bezel to fit, then Attach magnets to BEZEL in appropriate places to hold down the bezel through out. Use 1" fender washer and 1 1/2" wood screws to attach to dash board. Use 1" hole saw to only remove top portion of dash pad out in order to sink depths of the fastener for flush fit of bezel. Again, use magnets throughout. On the far right side, you may need a rubber bushing with hole to fit appropriately. YOu can use screw attached to each magnet to identify where to drill holes on dash. Then when almost finished, Use SEMS texture and paint, as well as their procedure for proper usage. Don't forget the light sanding step. THis makes the part look factory. Also this is required as the parts we had to sand and epoxy. 94 olds vert, jiggity76 and Imp558 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jiggity76 Posted June 21, 2018 Report Share Posted June 21, 2018 Really cool and outstanding work guys. It's very interesting to see all the ingenuity that goes into making this all happen. Would the same JBWeld epoxy work for repairing dash pad and other dash related cracks then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pshojo Posted June 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2018 after using this stuff, i would say yes jiggity76 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmyfloyd Posted June 21, 2018 Report Share Posted June 21, 2018 Random thought/question: What is keeping you from just swapping in the GP dash as a whole, aside from the extra work? Seems like it'd be about the same amount as making the custom top piece overall. Looks good and great step by step pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Galaxie500XL Posted June 21, 2018 Report Share Posted June 21, 2018 The GP dash countours at each end don't line up well with the door panels in the Cutlass. I've seen one done before, and it didn't look very good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMan Posted June 22, 2018 Report Share Posted June 22, 2018 Random thought/question: What is keeping you from just swapping in the GP dash as a whole, aside from the extra work? Seems like it'd be about the same amount as making the custom top piece overall. Looks good and great step by step pictures. I like the look of the CS dash over the GP dash. Also, I think part of it is finishing something GM started but didn’t finish...so I finished it for them. I really wanted a HUD so I might’ve swapped in a GP dash, but then I wouldn’t get to use my burlwood dash bezel or my Bluetooth integrated double DIN factory radio as it won’t fit in a GP dash. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk pshojo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jman093 Posted July 2, 2018 Report Share Posted July 2, 2018 Nice work. That's great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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