Idle troubles

[Daggar]

Ok I'm asking you guys this before I go out and buy parts.

 

I go out in the morning and start the car. As soon as you turn the key she jumps to 4k RPM and slowly throttles down to 3K then 2K to warm up then after 2 mins she jumps up to 3k rpm again and throws SES. Now if I hit the gas she throttkes back down to 2k rpm to warm up and the SES light goes out. I figure the Map sensor is toast because thats what the SES code said. Then it's off to work and as I pull up to a stoplight the engine is surging then after that it quits and she runs normally.

 

Now after a hard run like example racing somone or going form city speed to highway speed and I come to a stop it will throw SES and it won't go out.

 

SES codes are 39 and 35

 

So I figure Map sensor to start. Failing that upper and lower intake gaskets. Has anyone have this problem before?

[quaddriver]

Ok I'm asking you guys this before I go out and buy parts.

 

I go out in the morning and start the car. As soon as you turn the key she jumps to 4k RPM and slowly throttles down to 3K then 2K to warm up then after 2 mins she jumps up to 3k rpm again and throws SES. Now if I hit the gas she throttkes back down to 2k rpm to warm up and the SES light goes out. I figure the Map sensor is toast because thats what the SES code said. Then it's off to work and as I pull up to a stoplight the engine is surging then after that it quits and she runs normally.

 

Now after a hard run like example racing somone or going form city speed to highway speed and I come to a stop it will throw SES and it won't go out.

 

SES codes are 39 and 35

 

So I figure Map sensor to start. Failing that upper and lower intake gaskets. Has anyone have this problem before?

 

when the map goes, the idle MAY race if the failure is catastrophic and a huge vacuum leak exists, otherwise the symptoms of a failed map are an engine stumble during 'off-idle' throttle changes, or abrupt throttle changes elsewhere (because the ECM must invent a value for MAP based on TPS, BARO, ACT etc)

 

your symptoms also reek of a TPS at 4.4v or above at idle....

 

so do this, test the tps key on, engine off for anywhere between .39 and .75v at closed throttle (closest you can get to .5 is best) - if its not - replace and set TPS. if it is, key on, engine running, unplug the vacuum line from the map and then plug the hose - if it returns to normal at idle, replace MAP. if not, go looking for a large vacuum leak somewhere and report back. (during key on engine running tests, report back the IAC position - should be around 62-82ish)

[PaPaPooh]

Ok I'm asking you guys this before I go out and buy parts.

 

I go out in the morning and start the car. As soon as you turn the key she jumps to 4k RPM and slowly throttles down to 3K then 2K to warm up then after 2 mins she jumps up to 3k rpm again and throws SES. Now if I hit the gas she throttkes back down to 2k rpm to warm up and the SES light goes out. I figure the Map sensor is toast because thats what the SES code said. Then it's off to work and as I pull up to a stoplight the engine is surging then after that it quits and she runs normally.

 

Now after a hard run like example racing somone or going form city speed to highway speed and I come to a stop it will throw SES and it won't go out.

 

SES codes are 39 and 35

 

So I figure Map sensor to start. Failing that upper and lower intake gaskets. Has anyone have this problem before?

 

when the map goes, the idle MAY race if the failure is catastrophic and a huge vacuum leak exists, otherwise the symptoms of a failed map are an engine stumble during 'off-idle' throttle changes, or abrupt throttle changes elsewhere (because the ECM must invent a value for MAP based on TPS, BARO, ACT etc)

 

your symptoms also reek of a TPS at 4.4v or above at idle....

 

so do this, test the tps key on, engine off for anywhere between .39 and .75v at closed throttle (closest you can get to .5 is best) - if its not - replace and set TPS. if it is, key on, engine running, unplug the vacuum line from the map and then plug the hose - if it returns to normal at idle, replace MAP. if not, go looking for a large vacuum leak somewhere and report back. (during key on engine running tests, report back the IAC position - should be around 62-82ish)

 

to find the leak use a propane torch not lit of corse wave it close to the spot you want to check if the engine races there is a leak

 

good cheep way to check

 

good luck