Brodizzle83 Posted April 26, 2018 Report Share Posted April 26, 2018 I got this one-owner '96 GP SE "Gold Edition" today for $500 (tried to sell it to me for $1000 and I walked away...Then offered it to me for $500). It runs and drives awesome! He was up front with me about the rear trailing arm being rusty. It hasn't broke through the frame rail yet but you can wiggle it when it's on the ground. I figured if I got the car for $500 I could fish plate it from the interior side. Then I got it up in the air and looked closer. Is this possible to save it? The "frame rail" looks like it was shot with expanding foam from the rusthole back. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk 94 olds vert 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imp558 Posted April 26, 2018 Report Share Posted April 26, 2018 Step 1: Buy a mig welder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55trucker Posted April 26, 2018 Report Share Posted April 26, 2018 From that left side flank shot I can see that the rear wheel is definitely *not quite where it is supposed to be*, how ambitious do you feel? one has to find a clean donor car to cut out what is needed to repair that which someone else has forsaken. as with one of your other threads....what corrosion is elsewhere that is not visible to the eye? get a look inside the rockers, one can remove the A/C vent port in the door frame & peek in there with a flashlight to look all the way back to the tail end of the rocker & wheelwell arch to see if that is also in bad shape. If worse comes to worst you've got a decent parts car, it's got a B4U package, the CF5 moonroof. I see that someone has mounted a set of gen 2 wheels on the car, I take it that there are spacers behind those wheels? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfewtrail Posted April 26, 2018 Report Share Posted April 26, 2018 (edited) one has to find a clean donor car to cut out what is needed to repair that which someone else has forsaken. I see that someone has mounted a set of gen 2 wheels on the car, I take it that there are spacers behind those wheels? If I were the topic starter, I would source a clean shell and swap all the parts from this car over into it. I'm sure you could find clean cars down south for basically scrap price. Pretty sure it has spacers OR the calipers have been ground down to fit the torque stars. I seem to remember them contacting the calipers when I test-fit them on my '93 something like 16 years ago. I can't really remember how much they were making contact though. Edited April 26, 2018 by mfewtrail Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTP091 Posted April 26, 2018 Report Share Posted April 26, 2018 That’s some nasty cancer. Your mount looks like it’s partially eaten on one side at least and almost all the surrounding metal around is rotten and fallen away on the other. This is the worst I’ve seen. Nothing a grinder and some welding can’t fix though but do you have the skills? It is a lot of work. I’m sure it goes farther than it looks. Do you need it to pass a safety inspection to get it on the road in your area?. Would not pass where I’m from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mitchellman Posted April 26, 2018 Report Share Posted April 26, 2018 The rear wheels probably have no spacers. That's why they're sunken in so much. IIRC the fronts would need spacers to clear the calipers, but rears don't require spacers to fit. My 94 GS is the same way. I put 1 inch spacers in the rear and 10mm(narrowest that'll clear the cailper) spacers up front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KnightOwl Posted April 26, 2018 Report Share Posted April 26, 2018 I agree with previous comments. If you have the welding skills and material, then cut an fabricate what you need but I think the better option is to find a sturdy set of bones you can add all the goodies to. Plus, doing a big pull-down and re-assemble provides the chance to address lots of problems and upgrades, resulting in a solid, reliable machine to drive and enjoy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imp558 Posted April 26, 2018 Report Share Posted April 26, 2018 Like that wet brake line for instance? I would have bought that car too, don't get me wrong but you have to start with research and numbers first. Find the most cost effective way to get into a solid GP. If it's cost effective to repair that car then go for it. But seriously don't buy anything until there's a plan in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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