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Hard to start when car is warm


W30olds

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You've replaced the starter......did the previous starter suffer in the same manner?

It completely died, but honestly don't remember. The solenoid died in the starter. It was the original starter I believe

 

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I do have 2 car stereo amps installed in the trunk. Totally forgot to check those grounds for loose connections. Perhaps that could be an issue!?!

 

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Hard to determine whether the starter is the source,

 

what one needs to do is to pull the starter out when you encounter the anomaly and test it off the car, a set of booster cables connected directly to it would do that.

 

Can you get the engine to do that on your way home?

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I do have 2 car stereo amps installed in the trunk. Totally forgot to check those grounds for loose connections. Perhaps that could be an issue!?!

 

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Turn them all off, bypass them

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Hard to determine whether the starter is the source,

 

what one needs to do is to pull the starter out when you encounter the anomaly and test it off the car, a set of booster cables connected directly to it would do that.

 

Can you get the engine to do that on your way home?

When I leave work I usually don't stop, but it's gotten to where anytime I drive the car and it's warmed up if I shut it off and let it sit for a few then restart it seems to act up.

 

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Many parts stores can test the starter on a test stand...this sounds like heat soak. Most rebuilt starters I’ve bought the past few years fail way too quickly.

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If this were a carburetted engine with a distributor I'd say you possibly were suffering from a case of over advanced timing, somewhat classic, when the engine is cold it will crank & fire freely, but when the engine is hot and has tightened up the starter struggles to spin the engine because the timing is too far advanced.

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Many parts stores can test the starter on a test stand...this sounds like heat soak. Most rebuilt starters I’ve bought the past few years fail way too quickly.

I read about this as well. It does sound like that to me. Wonder if anything can be done to eliminate this on theses cars

 

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If you could find a new starter, rather than a rebuilt one,maybe. At this point, I’d almost rather buy a used one from a junkyard, they’re actually better than most of the rebuilt ones I’ve seen. I went through this same issue with FIVE starters on my Camaro before finally finding a brand new gear reduction starter...I’ve had no further issues for a long time now.

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Might try some thermal wrap stuff to wrap the starter in. Was reading that wrapping the starter help with heat soak. Seems to be a fairly common problem with Chevrolet/GM starters. Believe that's what's happening in my case. Thanks guys for all your help so far

 

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So I've disconnect the stereo amps to see if maybe that is the issue. That's the only thing I've added to the electrical system is a car stereo system. Gonna drive the car to work and see if the starting issue goes

away or gets better. I may need to get a bigger gauge wire and make a better ground for the amps. Got to thinking and the issues started I believe after amps were installed.

 

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So did the same thing this morning even with the amps disconnected. So I'm thinking it's heat soak as others have mentioned. Did fine this morning when I started it leaving for work. Not any issues. Drove to work. Stopped for a coffee and went to restart and the starter acted like it was having trouble turning over. Weird

 

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Try this when you get home........

 

pull into your driveway, shut off the engine, try to start the engine, it displays the same annoying problem again.......

 

remove the fuel pump relay..............it should be in the right side electrical center

 

disconnect the harness at the ICM (ignition control module), effectively deadening the coils so they do not fire,

 

now with the engine still hot try to crank the engine again,

 

let me know what you observe

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Try this when you get home........

 

pull into your driveway, shut off the engine, try to start the engine, it displays the same annoying problem again.......

 

remove the fuel pump relay..............it should be in the right side electrical center

 

disconnect the harness at the ICM (ignition control module), effectively deadening the coils so they do not fire,

 

now with the engine still hot try to crank the engine again,

 

let me know what you observe

Will do sir

 

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Try this when you get home........

 

pull into your driveway, shut off the engine, try to start the engine, it displays the same annoying problem again.......

 

remove the fuel pump relay..............it should be in the right side electrical center

 

disconnect the harness at the ICM (ignition control module), effectively deadening the coils so they do not fire,

 

now with the engine still hot try to crank the engine again,

 

let me know what you observe

It's acting the same as it usually does. Did as you suggested. Looks like maybe the starter is the culprit!

 

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hmmm....usually as in *not normal*?

 

at least now you know that fuel & spark are not causing the issue.

 

do you have a spare battery & booster cables that you can connect to the car bypassing the current battery?

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hmmm....usually as in *not normal*?

 

at least now you know that fuel & spark are not causing the issue.

 

do you have a spare battery & booster cables that you can connect to the car bypassing the current battery?

I do not have those items. Normal in my case has been the hot starting starter problem. I'm thinking the starter is suffering from the heat soak problem?!?

 

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Well, *my* next move would be to pull the starter & open it up to check both the armature windings & the field coils for possible issues or poor commutator brushes.

 

You may have a poor quality replacement starter, don't bank on GM items being all good quality, some AC Delco items are produced in Asia,

 

Heat Soak as suggested is a condition where the starter is exposed to exhaust manifold heat & it also is drawing so much current that it internally just cooks itself.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Bad ground. Check your ground connections. 

 

That's something like the tenth time it was suggested, this is likely a ground or a battery connection.

 

I understand the O.P. checked the grounds and verified they were tight but there's more to it than that, corrosion inside the lug where it crimps to the wire or corrosion under a terminal will constitute a bad ground even if everything is tight.

 

A quick and dirty test I suggested earlier in the thread was to carry jumper cables to establish a temporary ground in the field when the symptom returns. If that doesn't work it's time to look at the powered connections to see if there's evidence of corrosion.

 

A lot of guys use the bolt together battery terminals:

2PC-Universal-Replacement-Auto-Car-Batte

 

These things are universally accepted but they are straight garbage, any connection that allows oxygen in is a bad idea.

 

There are solder type available many places, all you do is put a solder slug inside them and heat them with a propane torch to melt the solder before plunging the wire all the way in. A large piece of heat shrink before the terminal is on and the connection is as good as or better than factory.

 

https://www.delcity.net/store/Straight-Barrel/p_14377.h_93454

 906095_primary_225px.jpg?v=2018020115430

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I have factory battery terminals if that makes a difference. They are good. I've been swamped with work, so I've not had much of a chance to check anything else. Only thing that's been installed is a amp for my stereo. Could that cause it to act up? When I get some time I'll check the grounds on that to see if it's a bad connection. Thanks for the help guys

 

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