Help with '92 3.4 DOHC alternator removal

[Brodizzle83]

My friend is trying to replace his alternator in his '92 Petty edition GP and he's stuck at the moment. I told him Id ask around and see if anyone can shed some light on the subject. Here's what he sent me via text:

 

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[Imp558]

It's free to join the forum, unless you count tolerating our bad jokes as some sort of payment. Have your friend join and just read the FAQ

 

http://www.w-body.com/topic/14458-my-45-minute-34-dohc-alternator-repair-write-up/

[GTP091]

It's free to join the forum, unless you count tolerating our bad jokes as some sort of payment. Have your friend join and just read the FAQ

 

http://www.w-body.com/topic/14458-my-45-minute-34-dohc-alternator-repair-write-up/

 

This is right on the money.  I was actually able to get my alternator out without lowering the subframe.  Takes some extra twisting and turning of the alt to get free.  Make sure he joins the forum though.  He'll quickly change his mind on the LQ1 if he's on here and has support instead of just getting shit head comments from lazy mechanics.

[Psych0matt]

In mine I lowered the side of the subframe as opposed to the rear of the subframe, worked pretty good. I think if I remember correctly that I put the last bolt back in too. Takes some swear words but isn’t too bad

[94 olds vert]

I don't think I bolt that last bolt back in mine. As far as I know it is still attached to the car.

[Schurkey]

Last time I changed an alternator on a 3.4L, I did it by removing the rear cylinder head and cam carrier.

 

E-A-S-Y...once the top end is out of the way.

 

The head was off to replace the head gasket.

[Imp558]

Years ago she drove a 3.8L Windstar van. I removed the cowl, wiper assemblies, and rocked the engine as far as I could to replace intake manifold gaskets. Once the intake manifold was off I realized I'd never see the rear plugs again after that day so I ran to the store and got plugs and wires.

[MemphisMan]

When I changed the generator on my 3.12 TOCH, I removed the hood so I could get at that pesky radiator cap.  Once it was removed, it allowed me to access the lip spoiler retaining nuts...damn GM engineers.  Once the spoiler was removed, the generator was easy to get at.  Mine is the one that's actually mounted to the body under the rear seat with a variable length drive belt to account for engine movement.  It's held in place by 32 set screws, all of them come out easy except for 7 of them.  Those 7 are a real bitch.  Once I got 6 of them out, I spent 2 years (off and on) trying to get the last one out.  I got pissed that I could never get it out, so I shot the car with my shotgun.  Wouldn't you know it, damn thing started right up and it's been fine ever since.  True story.      

[Nas Escobar]

Bumping this up, if it helps anyone.

 

 

To change the LQ1 alternator, the subframe doesn't have to be lowered, but the CV Axle and shield do have to be removed. Doing this lets you have a "landing" spot for the alternator. I took the wheel bearing off on mine because it was easier than messing with the lower control arm. Plus you risk damaging the boot if you use a pickle fork to pop the lower ball joint off. The other advantage is that it gives you visibility to the alternator through the spring perch, which you don't get with the wheel bearing bolted on. Remove 4 15mm bolts and it's out. 

 

The major thing here are tools. A flex head ratcheting wrench works wonders on that 10mm bolt that attaches the alternator to that back bracket and it's easier to use a ratcheting wrench on the two 13mm bolts that hold the alternator up.

 

Shallow sockets are too small and deep sockets are too large so if you can find a mid length socket for the 13mm's it's pretty easy to get the bolts off (It's easier to loosen them up with a ratchet and then work them out with the ratcheting wrench). The top bolt is barely visible, especially if you're working on the floor but it can be loosened without lowering the subframe. The lower bolt (the long bolt) will hit the frame but doesn't need to fully come out like it does on a traditional alternator swap. There's a groove where it sits and it will rock out. Then if you want, you can take it off and it slides above the heater tube (or I think it's the heater tube, that annoying tube that sits by the frame). There's a spacer on the engine side so be aware of that or you'll lose it in the abyss of the ground. 

 

 

Honestly, 30 years after that engine was designed; there's alternators in worse positions. This isn't the worst job on the LQ1, I'm pretty sure that title goes to the timing belt. 

[jiggity76]

And this applies to all W's?  Both my Supreme and STE?

I think the timing belt isn't that bad I've heard.  MemphisMan says it about an hour job if I remember.  Nice work on relisting this Nas, thank you!

[pitzel]

Practically nothing on YouTube concerning LQ1 maintenance...  If only all those years earlier, there was a good video or two with tips and tricks, maybe a few of these beasts could've been a bit more maintainable by the DIY crowd...