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1996 Cutlass Supreme- Rear Stabilizer Link Hangers


bluecalais79

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Does anyone know a part source for the 2 hangers that bolt onto the frame for the 2 rear sway bar stabilizer links? I am in the process of replacing all these as they are badly rusted. The hangers are in such bad shape I am worried they are going to fall apart in pieces (or even rust dust!) when I unbolt the links from them. I can't seem to find these anywhere. I've got the links, bushings, end links, end bushings, etc. ready to go, so the hangers are the last pieces to the puzzle needed.

post-10768-0-86836900-1522330121_thumb.jpg

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Rockauto has them, armed with part numbers you might find a better deal than $9.00 but I doubt it.

 

ACDELCO 45G0406

 

MOOG K80233

45G0406_Primary__ra_p.jpg

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Thanks, pictured above is the sway bar link, 2 of them are used to support/hold the sway bar. The top of the link above bolts onto a hanger, that's the part I'm looking for, The hanger bolts to the frame. Oddly enough my frame is mint in great shape but the hanger it crumpled, rusted away very badly. 

 

Yep that's my 1996 Cutlass up there. You can picture it with a correct white lip spoiler & tails, they will all be going on in a few weeks. :)

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I'll have to wait until I get home to see those photos, I'm not able to see them here at work. I will say though, that both my trailing arms have been replaced NOS GM.

 

This car had only 58,xxx miles on it when I bought it but it was a neglected Sir-Sits-A lot. It was old lady owned and also old lady not used, and it did it's sitting outside, an Indiana car. . So, all the weaker metal parts on this car are badly rusted. I'm going through the motions of replacing what I can.The frame and body panels though, are M-I-N-T and the motor is as strong as an ox (3.1). The miles were documented when I bought the car. Had this car been an inside sitter, man that would have been something. But it wasn't. I think the shipper probably broke one of the trailing arms by strapping it during shipping. No matter as I could have squeezed and busted the other one myself it was so bad. All lines and hoses and I mean all were so badly corroded they've all been replaced. Full brake job on all corners too.

 

But this car was worth it due to the low mileage and the fact I got it so cheaply. No coolant seepage into the oil yet either, but I'm sure that day is coming. It's been a great car since all this work has been done,  now I just have to drive it to get the value out of what I put into it for say, the next 10 years. I heard you can get 300,000+++ miles out of these motors if you treat 'em right, I think that would be about right.

 

And besides, how many people out there (outside this inner circle) can still say they are driving a Cutlass to work everyday? Used to be millions, now it's just me.

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There's an opening where the trailing arm mounts drop out of the "frame" where moisture collects. A weld shop can cut the rot out and plate it with 1/8" steel and weld a second gen mount on. My Regal and Miller's Regal both had the procedure.

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That sounds like a good gig, I was relieved to hear this wasn't needed by the shop that installed the new Trailing Arms (he's a fellow OCA member and knows these cars inside out)

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There's an opening where the trailing arm mounts drop out of the "frame" where moisture collects. A weld shop can cut the rot out and plate it with 1/8" steel and weld a second gen mount on. My Regal and Miller's Regal both had the procedure.

Actually my regal ended up getting the original mount braced front and back. No second gen mount for me - yet. The one I ordered still sits on the shelf...

 

But yea those are the sway bar mounts. I have seen the bar rust onto the bushing that goes in that mount enough to take maybe 3/16" of the bar diameter so look for that when you're changing them.

Edited by vipmiller803
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Actually my regal ended up getting the original mount braced front and back. No second gen mount for me - yet. The one I ordered still sits on the shelf...

 

No kidding, the Regal's still the only one. That was conceived of by L67SS a long time ago and now the only example of the repair is going to get scrapped due to accident damage. Bummer

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I'll have to wait until I get home to see those photos, I'm not able to see them here at work. I will say though, that both my trailing arms have been replaced NOS GM.

 

This car had only 58,xxx miles on it when I bought it but it was a neglected Sir-Sits-A lot. It was old lady owned and also old lady not used, and it did it's sitting outside, an Indiana car. . So, all the weaker metal parts on this car are badly rusted. I'm going through the motions of replacing what I can.The frame and body panels though, are M-I-N-T and the motor is as strong as an ox (3.1). The miles were documented when I bought the car. Had this car been an inside sitter, man that would have been something. But it wasn't. I think the shipper probably broke one of the trailing arms by strapping it during shipping. No matter as I could have squeezed and busted the other one myself it was so bad. All lines and hoses and I mean all were so badly corroded they've all been replaced. Full brake job on all corners too.

 

But this car was worth it due to the low mileage and the fact I got it so cheaply. No coolant seepage into the oil yet either, but I'm sure that day is coming. It's been a great car since all this work has been done,  now I just have to drive it to get the value out of what I put into it for say, the next 10 years. I heard you can get 300,000+++ miles out of these motors if you treat 'em right, I think that would be about right.

 

And besides, how many people out there (outside this inner circle) can still say they are driving a Cutlass to work everyday? Used to be millions, now it's just me.

My old LQ1 Cutlass had just over 250,000 miles on it, and was being driven more or less daily when I sold it to another W-body member..other than a small blue puff of smoke on startup (likely valve guides), it still ran and sounded great.  It's still being driven.

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Thanks, pictured above is the sway bar link, 2 of them are used to support/hold the sway bar. The top of the link above bolts onto a hanger, that's the part I'm looking for, The hanger bolts to the frame. Oddly enough my frame is mint in great shape but the hanger it crumpled, rusted away very badly. 

 

Yep that's my 1996 Cutlass up there. You can picture it with a correct white lip spoiler & tails, they will all be going on in a few weeks. :)

I believe I haz what you are looking for, and IIRC they are the same bracket regardless of the diameter of the sway bar. The junkyard is the only place to find them though, Ive got a pair from a 1st gen Z34 for the rear bar I was planning to put on my 94 CS. I might go JY this Sat. and will grab any that are there.

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My old LQ1 Cutlass had just over 250,000 miles on it, and was being driven more or less daily when I sold it to another W-body member..other than a small blue puff of smoke on startup (likely valve guides), it still ran and sounded great.  It's still being driven.

254k ATM

 

I'll have to wait until I get home to see those photos, I'm not able to see them here at work. I will say though, that both my trailing arms have been replaced NOS GM.

 

This car had only 58,xxx miles on it when I bought it but it was a neglected Sir-Sits-A lot. It was old lady owned and also old lady not used, and it did it's sitting outside, an Indiana car. . So, all the weaker metal parts on this car are badly rusted. I'm going through the motions of replacing what I can.The frame and body panels though, are M-I-N-T and the motor is as strong as an ox (3.1). The miles were documented when I bought the car. Had this car been an inside sitter, man that would have been something. But it wasn't. I think the shipper probably broke one of the trailing arms by strapping it during shipping. No matter as I could have squeezed and busted the other one myself it was so bad. All lines and hoses and I mean all were so badly corroded they've all been replaced. Full brake job on all corners too.

 

But this car was worth it due to the low mileage and the fact I got it so cheaply. No coolant seepage into the oil yet either, but I'm sure that day is coming. It's been a great car since all this work has been done,  now I just have to drive it to get the value out of what I put into it for say, the next 10 years. I heard you can get 300,000+++ miles out of these motors if you treat 'em right, I think that would be about right.

 

And besides, how many people out there (outside this inner circle) can still say they are driving a Cutlass to work everyday? Used to be millions, now it's just me.

I DD`d my 94 CS for nearly 13 years before I retired her to the driveway for a resto-modding project. Shes only at 133k and aside from the PASSKEY?LOCK? whatever bullshit anti-theft resistor that prevents me from starting it randomly, everything works. Its cleverly disguised as a POS but I know every inch of it and have a garage full of parts just waiting for things to happen.

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Other end, what the inside sway bar links bolt to that connect the link to the frame.​....per that note above, yup, these are what's toast, Rich e77 if you want to sell 'em. I'll buy 'em

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Let me see what I can find Sat which would just be whatever shipping is, the pair I have I really need for the 94 FE3+ project.

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No luck at the yard but you can have the set Ive got, i can easily get more. You might want to see if you can save the hardware on your car, ive had these awhile and the bolts are lost in the bucket full of W-body hardware. PM me your address and we can work out the details there.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Yes! give me an hour and Ill post pics. One fell under the damn tool bench and I need to move stuff to get to it. These need to be pulled from EVERY 1st gen W-body car as they do not make replacements.

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These things, easily accessible with the rear end off the ground. 3 bolts and maybe some leverage and off the come!

qDEM71e.jpg

 

As they install on the car, they are side specific.

bSl3mSZ.jpg

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