ron350 Posted March 4, 2018 Report Posted March 4, 2018 Does any one still have a Kent Moore J-35917 tie rod & ball joint separator? Years ago GnatGoSplat posted a picture of his J-35917. Some guy on ebay is has one for sale but the ball in the end of the bolt does not look right. I can’t find any other pictures of the end of the bolt so I am looking for some one that has a J-35917.. Quote
Imp558 Posted March 4, 2018 Report Posted March 4, 2018 (edited) You don't need it. Support the Regal by the subframe and unbolt the ball joint nut. I remove the axle nut and tap the cv shaft in some with a block of wood because a cv joint pulled apart the first time I did my Regal's cv. Then jack up right on the threaded rod portion of the ball joint to relieve the spring pressure and hammer a traditional ball joint separator in to release it. A little pb blaster can't hurt. Edited March 4, 2018 by Imp558 Quote
ron350 Posted March 4, 2018 Author Report Posted March 4, 2018 Thanks Imp558 the purpose of the J-35917 is to separate the tie rod and ball joint without damaging the grease boot. My tie rod ends are 3 years old and I don’t want to bust the boots with a pickle fork. Quote
digitaloutsider Posted March 4, 2018 Report Posted March 4, 2018 It isn't necessary. Remove the nut, smack the knuckle a few times with a hammer, it'll pop loose. Especially if they're that new. Or go to a parts store and rent a tie rod press big enough to slip over that point in the knuckle and push it out. Quote
Galaxie500XL Posted March 4, 2018 Report Posted March 4, 2018 Did the same on pretty new tie rods on my Cutlass when the alternator died. popped right out without a problem. Quote
Imp558 Posted March 4, 2018 Report Posted March 4, 2018 Yeah I didn't think of that either. New ones aren't going to be crusted in as bad. Quote
ron350 Posted March 4, 2018 Author Report Posted March 4, 2018 Digitaloutsider renting a tie rod separator will do the trick if any part store rents one.. Arthritis has forced me to learn how to work smarter, slower and us a Hammer as little as possible. Having the correct tool for the job is now a must and no longer an option. Quote
rich_e777 Posted March 6, 2018 Report Posted March 6, 2018 I found it you unbolt the castle nut on the tie rod then jack up on the ball joint enough you can pretty much lift the tie rod out of the C-arm with easy. Thats how I change them out, the fork is close to useless. Quote
Schurkey Posted March 12, 2018 Report Posted March 12, 2018 Consider buying a ball-joint "kit". This was a loaner-tool at my local NAPA, until I borrowed it and liked it so much that I bought the thing. The same kit is available from several sources. This one was "made" by KD, which is now Gearwrench. https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-41690-Front-End-Service/dp/B000TDCCHW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520819655&sr=8-1&keywords=41690+ball+joint The Kent-Moore tool I'm seeing on eBay looks like the end of the threaded rod is mushroomed. Might not be useless, but can't be a happy thing. https://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-KENT-MOORE-J-35917-TIE-ROD-BALL-JOINT-PULLER-AUTOMOTIVE-SERVICING-TOOL-NICE/401503921515?epid=667241632&hash=item5d7b7fa56b:g:btEAAOSww-BaWSu6 Galaxie500XL 1 Quote
ron350 Posted March 12, 2018 Author Report Posted March 12, 2018 Thanks Schurkey that is a good looking ball-joint kit. Quote
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