02 GP Remote Start/Security System

[wstefan20]

I'll be building this thread as I find time, and I welcome any comments or criticism.

 

I will be referencing specifically the CM7000 series remote start/security system by Compustar along with the idatalink Blade-AL immobilizer bypass module, however, the pinouts listed in this guide should work for just about any remote start system.

 

The reason I chose the compustar system is simple, it's cheap, upgradable, has more features than the others, and works on just about every vehicle ever made, and installation is pretty simple. However, as a warning, by "simple" you will have to splice into 20 or so odd wires of your vehicle, you'll be bypassing your factory alarm system, and running wires through the firewall, so obviously any wrong moves and you can mess all sorts of things up. That being said, although this wiring chart worked for me, I still strongly suggest using a probe to verify the wires before you go cutting into things as colors/locations could have changed through the years. I am not responsible for you blowing up your ride. However, I'm 99% confident if you follow the pinouts exactly, you won't have any issues.

 

If you are using the blade-al bypass module, you will need to flash it with the correct vehicle code before using. This is accomplished with with idatalink's usb flasher cable and access to their website. Most local shops can flash these for you, but unfortunately most are hesitant to help you out. For that reason, and since you have to be a "certified partner" to access the site, I will be offering flashing for both the module and the remote start for $5 plus shipping (not out for money, but hey, I figure $5 makes it worth my time and effort).

 

Here's a list of the parts you need excluding the blade-al usb flasher referenced above:

 

-cm7000 remote start/security system or cm7200 remote start only module

-blade-al bypass module (fortin bypass modules work too but more wiring)

-spdt relay (for reversing polarity for trunk release, easy to find at the junkyard used, or autozone new)

-wire strippers (I recommend a regular pair for when you cut the wires and side strippers like these: https://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-duty-self-adjusting-wire-stripper-36810.htmlfor most everything else)

-soldering tool (I like soldering vs crimping. Get this: https://www.harborfreight.com/180-watt-industrial-soldering-gun-61170.htmland a few replacement tips. I made mine from 12 ga solid copper from house wires)

-electrical tape

-heat shrink

-cable ties

-heat shrink sleeve

-test probe like this one: https://www.harborfreight.com/computer-safe-automotive-logic-probe-98709.html

-remote kit like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Compustar-One-Way-SH-Remote-Starter-Package-RF-1WG10-AM-CN-2000-Feet-Range/391897946240?hash=item5b3ef01880:g:3TMAAOSwewBZz9GNyou can get whatever model that is compatible, this is just the one I chose

-drill and bits to mount the hood pin switch

-heat gun (hairdryer works in a pinch)

 

Pinout:

 

 

Video of it working!

 

[VIDEO]

 

Much more to come, but It's midnight and I'm tired!