vipmiller803 Posted January 10, 2018 Report Posted January 10, 2018 Did you dismantle the alternator just for paint? Quote
Imp558 Posted January 10, 2018 Report Posted January 10, 2018 Wow, you did aftermarket plug wire routing things too. What engine are they intended for? Quote
digitaloutsider Posted January 10, 2018 Report Posted January 10, 2018 The big red wire separators? https://www.ebay.com/itm/12-PC-SPARK-PLUG-WIRES-BILLET-WIRE-SEPARATORS-V8-RED-/260628506430 Quote
KnightOwl Posted January 10, 2018 Author Report Posted January 10, 2018 No, I taped the alternator and pushed pieces of brown paper under the housing. I still got some paint on the armature but it didn't affect operation that I could tell. The plug wires I bought from Summit as a universal V8 kit. You cut to length and add the tips...time consuming but worked well. The wire looms are mounted to the valve cover bolts. The FWI was powdercoated (bought that way) but everything else is hi-temp engine paint. What was really funny was I painted the front P-log with a specific ceramic exhaust paint, but as soon as I started the car the stuff smoked like it was on fire. A lot of it flaked off but I was surprised how much of it actually stuck until I traded the car 4 years later. Quote
KnightOwl Posted January 10, 2018 Author Report Posted January 10, 2018 The big red wire separators? https://www.ebay.com/itm/12-PC-SPARK-PLUG-WIRES-BILLET-WIRE-SEPARATORS-V8-RED-/260628506430 Mine were hard plastic, not metal. I think I got them at Advance or Pep Boys, but those metal ones look sharp. Quote
Imp558 Posted January 10, 2018 Report Posted January 10, 2018 Oh, so I assume they were for "chevy 350" like everything else. The wires are interesting sporting the HEI barbs, lol. Quote
KnightOwl Posted January 21, 2018 Author Report Posted January 21, 2018 Was looking on the Intense website last night and noticed the head stud kit. Interesting concept but I noticed the recommended torquing to 70 then rechecking after the engine has run. Dont the exhaust manifolds have to be off to reach the bottom row of bolts? Quote
Imp558 Posted January 21, 2018 Report Posted January 21, 2018 (edited) In another post I asked about head studs, digitaloutsider gave me the ARP numbers and they can be found anywhere, even Amazon: ARP 193-4001 or 193-4002 if you want the 12pt nuts http://www.w-body.com/topic/56165-my-2002-gt-junkyard-upgrade-never-ending/page-3 If memory serves me you can get to them with a shallow socket and swivel, or worst case scenario a crow's foot Edited January 21, 2018 by Imp558 Quote
KnightOwl Posted January 26, 2018 Author Report Posted January 26, 2018 I was reading last night that if you snug the studs on install, then do a three increment 30/60/90 torque sequence, retightening after running isn't really required. Anyone else done this? Quote
Galaxie500XL Posted January 26, 2018 Report Posted January 26, 2018 I always, at a minimum do torque on heads in at least two steps.. Imp558 1 Quote
Imp558 Posted January 26, 2018 Report Posted January 26, 2018 I'm with Dan, unless it's something petty I do 1/2 - 3/4 torque or so and go around again. With the 3800 read up on head gasket direction first, they're weird. Galaxie500XL 1 Quote
KnightOwl Posted January 27, 2018 Author Report Posted January 27, 2018 I definitely agree on the multiple step torqueing process, as I did years ago with a few engines I had apart to that extent, but I've never come back and re-torqued heads after running the engine a few full warm-up cycles Quote
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