ECM checking for possible leaking capacitor and loose solder

[Slade901]

Has anyone of you ever opened an ECM aside from just replacing the EPROM chip?

 

I'm trying to open the ECM but it looks like it's not budging at all and held down by a rivets on both sides. Is there any proper procedure to remove the circuit board on this ECM?

 

Thanks

[cutlassdude96]

which car

[Slade901]

1990 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme SL V6 191 T 3.1L MFI

[GnatGoSplat]

Once you get all the screws out, I think it just slides out!

It's been almost 4yrs since I took one apart, but that's how I got these pics:

http://www.w-body.com/inside-stuff/ecm-pcm.html

 

I don't have an open ECM anymore, but going by my old pics, I don't see any electrolytic capacitors inside to leak. I only see a few tantalum caps, and those don't ever leak... if anything, they short out, but I think a shorted tantalum cap will be obvious (burnt/melted/exploded).

 

I'm almost sure the problem that plagues most ECM's is bad solder joints. I've heard a lot of companies that refurbish GM ECM's of this age usually just strip and reflow the solder on them. Considering the number of potentially bad solder joints you'd have to resolder, it almost seems more worthwhile to pick up a good used ECM for around 20 bux.

[Slade901]

Once you get all the screws out, I think it just slides out!

It's been almost 4yrs since I took one apart, but that's how I got these pics:

http://www.w-body.com/inside-stuff/ecm-pcm.html

 

I don't have an open ECM anymore, but going by my old pics, I don't see any electrolytic capacitors inside to leak. I only see a few tantalum caps, and those don't ever leak... if anything, they short out, but I think a shorted tantalum cap will be obvious (burnt/melted/exploded).

 

I'm almost sure the problem that plagues most ECM's is bad solder joints. I've heard a lot of companies that refurbish GM ECM's of this age usually just strip and reflow the solder on them. Considering the number of potentially bad solder joints you'd have to resolder, it almost seems more worthwhile to pick up a good used ECM for around 20 bux.

 

Thanks Shawn..

 

I'll check my ECM again and it looks like there is a screw in the middle next to that capacitor that needs to be removed first before I can pull out the ECM. Yeah, I'm considering on getting a used ECM for back up but I'll try to see what I can do first on my current ECM to see if there is a loose solder or bad capacitor.

 

I'm doing these because my car is getting the dreaded Error Code 42.

I can clear the error code but after driving the car for 8-10 minutes then the Error Code 42 would come back again. Before I took apart the ICM and the Ignition Coils, I noticed the Ignition wires on the Ignition Coil has some traces of the coolant fluid.

Probably the coolant fluid got into the ignition wires and into the Ignition Coil and ICM because I put the coolant fluid to the hot level of the coolant reservoir when it was cold. So when I drove the car, the level of the coolant fluid in the reservoir went past the overflow line but since the coolant reservoir cap is not tight/loose and it leaked out and splattered all over the ignition wires, ignition coils, ICM since they are directly below the coolant reservoir.

I am hoping it was just that coolant mess that caused all this problem but I went ahead and replaced the CPS, took the ICM, Ignition Coil, ECM and check it and learn along the way. ICM and Ignition Coil were dirty and covered with dried oil/dirt.

 

This link has an issue with error code 42. That is why I'm checking my ECM and it gave me an idea and broaden my knowledge.

 

http://www.fieros.de/en/87se.html