Imp558 Posted December 15, 2017 Report Share Posted December 15, 2017 So as I lay awake last night wishing I could sleep it dawned on me that the concept of relocating the alt to the A/C compressor location is filled with benefits and not a single drawback serious that I could think of. Pros: Charge wire like 1' long instead of running all the way through the entire engine harness. Alternator down in a cool location instead of up high in the heat. Can remove the big stupid alternator bracket thus shaving weight, improving aesthetics, and eliminating the plastic elbows. Get rid of hokey A/C compressor bypass pulley Cons: additional mount needs to be cobbled for an idler and tensioner, or really just a tensioner. Need to devise a method of attaching heater lines to engine (possibly thread the holes in the timing cover and intake with pipe taps) ------------------------------------------------------------- Anything I'm not thinking of? I'm sure it's been done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wstefan20 Posted December 15, 2017 Report Share Posted December 15, 2017 Never seen it done. I upgraded to the cs144 which has an external fan and just ran 0 gauge. Cool idea though! I can't imagine not having ac though! Lol You'd still need the elbows and belt tensioner though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imp558 Posted December 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2017 I live in a frozen wasteland and I have low blood pressure, it's never truly too hot for me. Interesting thought though with the CS144, that would be a good opportunity to upgrade. When I get a chance I want to take a set of coolant elbows and dig through my pipe tap set to see how close they are. I have access to a TIG but it may be a problem welding aluminum to cast aluminum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wstefan20 Posted December 15, 2017 Report Share Posted December 15, 2017 I live in a frozen wasteland and I have low blood pressure, it's never truly too hot for me. Interesting thought though with the CS144, that would be a good opportunity to upgrade. When I get a chance I want to take a set of coolant elbows and dig through my pipe tap set to see how close they are. I have access to a TIG but it may be a problem welding aluminum to cast aluminum. I would personally love to see this project! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imp558 Posted December 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2017 It's my 1995 GS. a thing happened where I was ready to lay my 1996 Regal sedan up for the winter and really build the snot out of it and some broad rear-ended me and totaled it. I imported the GS and have until May to get it ready for autocross. For now I'm doing custom coilovers and a really mild L67/4T65 swap over the winter to get it race ready. The next engine we're working on will be something a lot more sick with a 4T80 if all goes well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marshal Posted December 15, 2017 Report Share Posted December 15, 2017 ithurtz did it digitaloutsider, Imp558 and wstefan20 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wstefan20 Posted December 15, 2017 Report Share Posted December 15, 2017 ithurtz did it Alright Scotty, it's up to you to convert him! Lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ithurtz Posted December 15, 2017 Report Share Posted December 15, 2017 GPF goes bonkers so everyone else flies all over lol. so here goes. I cammed, did heads over the summer, did altlernator relocated, coil pack on firewall, coolant elbow delete. Slowly working on dog bone delete. Had my brother make the bracket, its just 1/2" steel bolted directly to the block, then the alt to that. I am M90 delete so it runs on the inner belt. 20170708_202556 by Corey S, on Flickr PLaying with where a tensioner could go 20170701_153003 by Corey S, on Flickr Coil pack relocate you can see it fine from above 20170903_143927 by Corey S, on Flickr You just have to take apart the loom and bring the wire down below, I did zero wire cutting. 20170830_154734 by Corey S, on Flickr 20170830_160021 by Corey S, on Flickr 20170903_143544 by Corey S, on Flickr To keep heat to the car the lim and timing cover was tapped. The lim I think was 3/4? I forget". The cover I forget but someone on the internet said a certain size well that was way to thin as seen in the pic and actually cracked it. Brother tigged it, and retapped, all is well. 20170605_174114 by Corey S, on Flickr 20170618_144702 by Corey S, on Flickr 20170903_143520 by Corey S, on Flickr I used the m90 tensioner and swapped pulleys with the ac delete bracket. So far I notice the tensioner is being pulled from the top down to the side a little little bit. No additional belt wear, but it has me watching it and thinking of a way to stop it from being pulled on so much. wstefan20, digitaloutsider and Imp558 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imp558 Posted December 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2017 Wow, that's really cool thank you for posting! ithurtz 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nas Escobar Posted December 15, 2017 Report Share Posted December 15, 2017 It's my 1995 GS. a thing happened where I was ready to lay my 1996 Regal sedan up for the winter and really build the snot out of it and some broad rear-ended me and totaled it. I imported the GS and have until May to get it ready for autocross. For now I'm doing custom coilovers and a really mild L67/4T65 swap over the winter to get it race ready. The next engine we're working on will be something a lot more sick with a 4T80 if all goes well. Coilovers all around or just the rear? I need help making the rear ones, specifically the part number for the strut mount. My understanding is that it has to be a specific one so you can put the bushing on so the spring has a place to rest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imp558 Posted December 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2017 Coilovers all around or just the rear? I need help making the rear ones, specifically the part number for the strut mount. My understanding is that it has to be a specific one so you can put the bushing on so the spring has a place to rest. All 4, my plates are RRRI (Jarek's gig) and my front spindles are from a second Gen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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