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3800 Alternator relocation.


Imp558

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So as I lay awake last night wishing I could sleep it dawned on me that the concept of relocating the alt to the A/C compressor location is filled with benefits and not a single drawback serious that I could think of.

 

Pros:

 

Charge wire like 1' long instead of running all the way through the entire engine harness.

 

Alternator down in a cool location instead of up high in the heat.

 

Can remove the big stupid alternator bracket thus shaving weight, improving aesthetics, and eliminating the plastic elbows.

 

Get rid of hokey A/C compressor bypass pulley

 

Cons:

 

additional mount needs to be cobbled for an idler and tensioner, or really just a tensioner.

 

Need to devise a method of attaching heater lines to engine (possibly thread the holes in the timing cover and intake with pipe taps)

 

 

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Anything I'm not thinking of? I'm sure it's been done.

 

 

 

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Never seen it done. I upgraded to the cs144 which has an external fan and just ran 0 gauge. Cool idea though! I can't imagine not having ac though! Lol

 

You'd still need the elbows and belt tensioner though.

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I live in a frozen wasteland and I have low blood pressure, it's never truly too hot for me.

Interesting thought though with the CS144, that would be a good opportunity to upgrade. When I get a chance I want to take a set of coolant elbows and dig through my pipe tap set to see how close they are.

I have access to a TIG but it may be a problem welding aluminum to cast aluminum.

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I live in a frozen wasteland and I have low blood pressure, it's never truly too hot for me.

Interesting thought though with the CS144, that would be a good opportunity to upgrade. When I get a chance I want to take a set of coolant elbows and dig through my pipe tap set to see how close they are.

I have access to a TIG but it may be a problem welding aluminum to cast aluminum.

I would personally love to see this project!

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It's my 1995 GS. a thing happened where I was ready to lay my 1996 Regal sedan up for the winter and really build the snot out of it and some broad rear-ended me and totaled it. I imported the GS and have until May to get it ready for autocross.

For now I'm doing custom coilovers and a really mild L67/4T65 swap over the winter to get it race ready.

The next engine we're working on will be something a lot more sick with a 4T80 if all goes well.

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GPF goes bonkers so everyone else flies all over lol.

 

so here goes. I cammed, did heads over the summer, did altlernator relocated, coil pack on firewall, coolant elbow delete. Slowly working on dog bone delete.

 

Had my  brother make the bracket, its just 1/2" steel bolted directly to the block, then the alt to that. I am M90 delete so it runs on the inner belt.

35807500045_601ed97f71_c.jpg20170708_202556 by Corey S, on Flickr

 

PLaying with where a tensioner could go

35553321831_1299d39b43_c.jpg20170701_153003 by Corey S, on Flickr

 

Coil pack relocate you can see it fine from above

36871229911_50b4086850_c.jpg20170903_143927 by Corey S, on Flickr

 

You just have to take apart the loom and bring the wire down below, I did zero wire cutting.

36093962084_e6f36fee31_c.jpg20170830_154734 by Corey S, on Flickr

36531937550_8518eb4b65_c.jpg20170830_160021 by Corey S, on Flickr

36871379361_8e35b51f09_c.jpg20170903_143544 by Corey S, on Flickr

 

To keep heat to the car the lim and timing cover was tapped. The lim I think was 3/4? I forget". The cover I forget but someone on the internet said a certain size well that was way to thin as seen in the pic and actually cracked it. Brother tigged it, and retapped, all is well.

34280692564_8e4b1dd6a2_c.jpg20170605_174114 by Corey S, on Flickr

35009309440_e3735bd4c0_c.jpg20170618_144702 by Corey S, on Flickr

 

36871378091_a5472f4073_c.jpg20170903_143520 by Corey S, on Flickr

 

I used the m90 tensioner and swapped pulleys with the ac delete bracket. So far I notice the tensioner is being pulled from the top down to the side a little little bit. No additional belt wear, but it has me watching it and thinking of a way to stop it from being pulled on so much.

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It's my 1995 GS. a thing happened where I was ready to lay my 1996 Regal sedan up for the winter and really build the snot out of it and some broad rear-ended me and totaled it. I imported the GS and have until May to get it ready for autocross.

For now I'm doing custom coilovers and a really mild L67/4T65 swap over the winter to get it race ready.

The next engine we're working on will be something a lot more sick with a 4T80 if all goes well.

Coilovers all around or just the rear? I need help making the rear ones, specifically the part number for the strut mount. My understanding is that it has to be a specific one so you can put the bushing on so the spring has a place to rest.

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Coilovers all around or just the rear? I need help making the rear ones, specifically the part number for the strut mount. My understanding is that it has to be a specific one so you can put the bushing on so the spring has a place to rest.

 

All 4, my plates are RRRI (Jarek's gig) and my front spindles are from a second Gen.

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