scottydoggs Posted December 14, 2017 Report Share Posted December 14, 2017 my car dont over heat either, under hood temps are a whole different story. i run a 195 t stat and run the fans on at 185. if it real hot ill hit coolant temps of 210, but that what its supposed to be at. on avg tho im at or under 185. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imp558 Posted December 14, 2017 Report Share Posted December 14, 2017 I was running both fan relays at once, they went through a switch under the hood to select the control from the PCM. In the summer they were on at 190, off at 183ish. And I ran a 180 stat In winter I installed a 195 stat and flicked the switch so the relays worked with the secondary cooling fan control. "Winter mode" was on at 205 off 198ish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wstefan20 Posted December 14, 2017 Report Share Posted December 14, 2017 my car dont over heat either, under hood temps are a whole different story. i run a 195 t stat and run the fans on at 185. if it real hot ill hit coolant temps of 210, but that what its supposed to be at. on avg tho im at or under 185. That's about where I'm at too. I was just concerned how hot to the touch everything got since the headers. Probably just paranoid though! Thanks for the advice guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marshal Posted December 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2017 OK, I have another question: going from a L67 maf to a N* maf, will the tune be close enough to crank the car over and drive around long enough to get a scan so the initial adjustment can be made? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wstefan20 Posted December 14, 2017 Report Share Posted December 14, 2017 Wouldn't it be safer to just get the correct maf tables for the LQ4 and program them first? I think dark might have a way to get the files. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottydoggs Posted December 14, 2017 Report Share Posted December 14, 2017 you need to load the new maf file, then tune it in if need be. if using dhp i got a few bins with the n* file in it. digitaloutsider 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marshal Posted December 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2017 I have one someplace, was just curious if it was worth the effort to find it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottydoggs Posted December 14, 2017 Report Share Posted December 14, 2017 it will run but be pig rich iirc. best to just swap the new file in. being you own a tuner and have the file already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marshal Posted December 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2017 I found a file. I guess I should just do it the right way and not try to half ass it. now that I'm putting it back together, I got the north star throttle body on, went to install the air filter, and.... it's too long. need a shorter air filter. the end of the air filter hit's on the radiator or headlight or something, and if I try to angle it different it hit's on the radiator hose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Galaxie500XL Posted December 14, 2017 Report Share Posted December 14, 2017 Speaking of which, what success has anyone had with keeping engine bay temps down? I've been thinking about powder coating the headers inside and out and adding reflective shielding, and maybe a few hood vents. Any pros or cons? Speaking of which, what success has anyone had with keeping engine bay temps down? I've been thinking about powder coating the headers inside and out and adding reflective shielding, and maybe a few hood vents. Any pros or cons? Z34 hood vents? To my eye, I’ve never seen a W that looks bad with a properly installed set. wstefan20 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marshal Posted December 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2017 how hard is it to change out a throttle cable? mine is either too short or there is something binding someplace inside the cable housing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottydoggs Posted December 15, 2017 Report Share Posted December 15, 2017 you likely need to bend the bracket on the N* for the throttle cable mount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marshal Posted December 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2017 I need like an inch or two, is it common to need to bend the bracket like that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluegtp91 Posted December 15, 2017 Report Share Posted December 15, 2017 Speaking of which, what success has anyone had with keeping engine bay temps down? I've been thinking about powder coating the headers inside and out and adding reflective shielding, and maybe a few hood vents. Any pros or cons? Routing the exhaust under the bell housing would do it. But good luck with that. Ron Vogel did that YEARS ago along with running a true dual setup with an FBody muffler and cutting the spare tire section out and putting in a piece of flat sheet metal. Run a 160*. Crank the fan turn on points lower. Otherwise there isn't too much. GTP radiator would help a little along with running a stand alone cooler for the transmission so that's not getting hotter by cooling two huge heat pumps. Regardless, it's a FWD massproduced econosedan that just has a bunch of flaws that you're doing to have to deal with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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