GP1138 Posted December 1, 2003 Report Posted December 1, 2003 Ok. I know I've been obnoxious lately with all of my annoying posting about my Grand Prix (Prick) but I know exactly what's wrong now. Y'know where the bottom of the strut goes into the A-frame? This is the part that pivots when you steer. Well, there is supposed to be a nut there that holds the strut to the frame, and the nut screws onto the end of this bolt that's on the bottom of the strut. On this strut, there are no threads, it looks like the threaded part of the bolt broke off and there's a stub now. I think I can replace this part myself... or I can just buy a new strut from a junkyard.... More details when I get more into it. I'm learning more and more as we go, here... Thanks for all your help, I may not need a new car after all... we shall see... Quote
Aaron Posted December 1, 2003 Report Posted December 1, 2003 just kick it again. wait that was u right? Quote
GP1138 Posted December 1, 2003 Author Report Posted December 1, 2003 I think we need to distract Aaron for the remainder of this thread. INSTRUCTIONS: 1. PRINT OUT THIS PAGE 5 TIMES 2. DO THE PUZZLES 3. REPEAT STEPS 1 AND 2 Anybody got any real ideas, comments, thoughts?? Quote
GP1138 Posted December 2, 2003 Author Report Posted December 2, 2003 That may be it. I'm not sure of the terminology. Sorry, i'm dumb.. it's the axis that pivots when you steer, not what actually turns it when you steer. The bottom of it has no threads for a nut to hold it on. Quote
dykz34 Posted December 2, 2003 Report Posted December 2, 2003 There is a hole for the stud to go through in the point of the A-arm. There should be a nut on the bottom to hold the strut assembly in place. The balljoint has a rubber boot on it so that it can hold grease. Is that what broke? Quote
GP1138 Posted December 2, 2003 Author Report Posted December 2, 2003 There is a hole for the stud to go through in the point of the A-arm. There should be a nut on the bottom to hold the strut assembly in place. After inspecting the driver's side, the good side, i believe you are correct. That stud is now a stub, as in the threaded part the nut went on is now broken off somewhere. Does the entire strut assembly need replaced, or is it possible to replace just that stud? Quote
scorpion_x9 Posted December 2, 2003 Report Posted December 2, 2003 You don't have to replace the strut assembly. What you need to replace is the "lower balljoint". It looks like you still have the stock ball joint, so you'll need to drill the heads off of the four rivets that are holding it on. (But don't drill all the way through, then you will have to replace the strut assembly or jigger-rig something.) The ball joint will look something like this. Quote
Gearhead43 Posted December 2, 2003 Report Posted December 2, 2003 Ummm, If it is indeeed the front lower control arm ball joint... The ball joint assembly is riveted to the strut assembly. You can drill out the rivets and replace it with the following GM kit: 17989117 - BALL JOINT KIT, FRT LWR CONT ARM (INCL NUT)(1990-91) In addition, you might need to order GM P/N 11514337 - PIN, COTTER 2.8 X 30MM PS 1010 (AR) The assembly must be re-riveted to the strut assembly. Sounds like a PITA JOB Good Luck :shock: Quote
GP1138 Posted December 2, 2003 Author Report Posted December 2, 2003 Ok, pics. Here's what the driver's side looks like, what it's supposed to look like... And here's what the passenger's side looks like (the side that broke) A new lower balljoint costs $29 at advance. This is going to be better than I thought.... Quote
dykz34 Posted December 2, 2003 Report Posted December 2, 2003 Yup, thats the lower balljoint. Ive never seen one snap before, but weirder things have happened. Youll have to drill/grind the heads off of the stock one to remove it because GM rivets them on (stupid GM). Other than that, its easy to change them. If you can, try to get a sealed one, but I think you can only get sealed ones from GM and they cost about $75. I opted for the ones for $30 at AutoZone when I changed mine. Goodluck with it. I'm sure you'll figure it out. Quote
GP1138 Posted December 2, 2003 Author Report Posted December 2, 2003 Would it be easier to just buy a new strut assembly from a j/y, you think? Just a question, because at first that's what I thought I'd have to do... It'd certainly be quicker... Quote
dykz34 Posted December 2, 2003 Report Posted December 2, 2003 It would be easier, yes. But there is no guarantee the balljoint on that one will be good either. You would then have to deal with swapping springs and all that shit over; in the long run it would be easier to just grind out the old balljoint. I paid $100 for two strut assemblies off of a 97 Z34. One of the balljoints was shot so I just decided to swap both of them since I had to do one. Quote
dykz34 Posted December 2, 2003 Report Posted December 2, 2003 What are you talking about cracker? Quote
GP1138 Posted December 2, 2003 Author Report Posted December 2, 2003 I gotta give you credit, Aaron. Even when people are being complete assholes to you, you don't hold grudges or even get pissed off... I wasn't really trying to be an asshole, just trying to get people to laugh. Luckily you played along... Now, it's when YOU'RE the asshole that it ain't cool you don't get offended... Quote
Aaron Posted December 2, 2003 Report Posted December 2, 2003 damn never been called cracker before! on the brain teazers for dumb fucks pic up there^^^^^^^^^^^ Quote
dykz34 Posted December 2, 2003 Report Posted December 2, 2003 Shut up cracker. Thats your new name now. Cracker. Quote
GP1138 Posted December 2, 2003 Author Report Posted December 2, 2003 Sorry, just wanted to use my creation... I'll go back to my hole... Quote
GnatGoSplat Posted December 2, 2003 Report Posted December 2, 2003 I wouldn't get a junkyard strut assembly. I got some off a 96 Monte for my bigger front brake conversion, and the balljoints were junk. They were physically okay, but the boots were torn. Even 1 small tear in the little rubber balljoint boot, and the balljoint is trash. Be sure to use titanium drill bits to drill out the rivets. They are a PITA. The new balljoint will attach using bolts and compression nuts. Quote
scorpion_x9 Posted December 2, 2003 Report Posted December 2, 2003 It looks like your CV boot will need to be replced too. You'll have a butt-load more problems if you don't due to sand and other stuff getting in there and messing the whole CV joint up. Quote
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