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91 International DOHC no start.


jiggity76

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Thanks for the response!  I had a buddy turn the key on and off and I heard and felt the relay click on and off so it's good to go (it's also brand new). 

 

If the relay is working and if I understand what your saying, then I shouldn't have to jump the wire to the battery source since I know the relay is working right?  I know that the pump is reading 0 pressure at the Schrader valve so should I start at the pump?  I'm going to try that trick of tapping on the tank and seeing if I can get the pump to work too.  Another issue is that the digital dash stopped working again.  Before it was a blown fuse under the glove box but it's brand new and isn't blown but dash is still dead.  Could the cars computer be causing the dead fuel pump and dash at the same time?

 

Forgot to ask the guys at work to borrow a multmeter, I'll ask tomorrow.

The relay turns on.  Doesn't mean that power is going through it to the fuel pump, or that there isn't a break in the wiring farther to the rear.  You still need to check for current flow, and for voltage near the pump.

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You still need to check for current flow, and for voltage near the pump.

 

For whatever reason the "engineer" who designed it used a gauge of wire that was exactly the right gauge for the fuel pump from the relay. Then made crimp splices in it along the way. It was barely adequate when it was new and now it's older and degraded. Verifying the amount of current draw in the circuit is a great idea and verifying the voltage at the pump is a really great idea. Kicking the dumbass "engineer" square in the groin is the best idea but likely not an option.

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Ok, thanks guys.  So to get to the wires near the pump, I still have to drop the tank or can you just reach up on top of the tank and disconnect, pull the wires down to check them with the multimeter?  What number am I looking for on the multimeter?

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