Jump to content

Oil leak still!!!


Recommended Posts

Posted

Ok guys I think only one of you may know me. I sold my TGP to a guy up in Pittsburgh years ago. But here is a back story of myself. I am 43 years old and have worked on cars since I was 15. My cars never see a garage for repair work. I have rebuilt engines and even tried my luck at a transmission(failed at that). But this damn LQ1 is a freaking pain in the ass. I have done intake gaskets and the dist. O-ring seal when I got the car. I just finished the oil pan gasket Saturday. Now I degraded the whole underside of the engine,just because why not. Now for my issue. It is still leaking around the rear main area. The gasket is not suppose to use sealant at all, which I didnt. But the old one had some at that area when I pulled it down. Should I have put a little at the transition area? All bolts are snug. I am 90% sure it's coming from there and not further up the engine. Thanks guys for any ideas

Posted

Well 2 weekends in a row, I have done the oil pan gasket. This time around I added RTV to the corners of the rear main seal area. So far no leaks!! Well I now know that I can do this job fairly quickly now lol.

  • Like 3
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Does anyone know the part number for the EGR tube? Mine has a crack somewhere on it and it is now running rich as heck. Thanks fuys

Posted

Haha yea that's what I am coming up with. That's why I was asking for help. The next best thing is to make block off plates damn it.

Posted

The auto parts store sells that terrible muffler bandage which is fiberglass, I wonder if one would seal it up until a good one could be found.

Posted

The problem is that heat shield tube over the actual tube. And also the best part about this situation is that I broke the hold down bolt going into the manifold. This car is a pain in the ass for finding parts. I know it's 25 years old, but come on. It shouldn't be this hard to find parts.

Posted

I don't want to win the worst job award. I now have to take the manifold off and get the broken bolt off. Now I am tossing up Jb welding a new tube onto the manifold cause I don't want to break any studs off in the head. This has been my luck lately

Posted

Yea I was looking from underneath and am almost tempted to try to remove the manifold from underneath. Oh it's been a bad few weeks for me. But no sense in complaining about it. No one listens anyway lol

Posted

Way too many times for me to count. I have had 7 of these 60*v6s and my hand has been behind everyone of them. Not a joy by any stretch.

Posted

I've had no frustrating issues with the pushrod engines when it comes to the rear manifold & removing it,

 

the DOHC on the other hand....welllllll that's an animal of an altogether different set of rules.

Posted

I seem to recall someone years ago using flexible gas supply line for home appliances to fab up an EGR tube.

 

Anything on the back side of an LQ1 is a pain, other than spark plugs. I never understood why the plenum should have to be removed in order to replace the oxygen sensor.

Posted

I've replaced the o2 once, did not need to pull the plenum, DID remove the exhaust crossover as well the airbox assembly to get my hand down behind the rear head.

Posted

I seem to recall someone years ago using flexible gas supply line for home appliances to fab up an EGR tube.

 

Anything on the back side of an LQ1 is a pain, other than spark plugs. I never understood why the plenum should have to be removed in order to replace the oxygen sensor.

On the way to Detroit I ran to Akron to get Dreamweaver. We ended up putting an O2 in his Z and drove up convoy. His hands and arms were too big to get back there and I barely fit. Alone he likely would have had to pull the plenum. If the gaskets were there I'd have been all for it too.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

So I decided to take the EGR tube off today. Sonic made a block off plate for the EGR and since the bolt that holds the tube in the manifold snapped. I came up with putting a bolt and nut in the manifold hole and tighten it down. no leaks what so ever. Now the car will buck and carry on when you vet on it. Passenger side of engine makes some loud banging noises when the car misses and bucks around. I do have code 44, but I have always had that since the EGR tube cracked. Any ideas? I don't think a bad O2 sensor would cause all this. Oh and it's still running rich

Posted

44 means that the oxygen sensor is reporting a lean condition which is why you are running rich. next step is to verify good continuity between the computer and the oxygen sensor and if it's good replace the oxygen sensor. It may not fix the banging and bucking but it's a known problem and you have to rule out the things that you know to be bad before you can see what actually is left there to diagnose

Posted

anytime we unplug the computer we disconnect the negative battery cable, and make sure the battery is disconnected while you put it back in as well

Posted

I just pulled all 6 plugs and they were black as could be. I cleaned them and regapped them. For some reason the 3 rear ones was gapped at .20. So I regapped them. And yes I replaced the plugs this spring and I swear they were gapped at.45 but took it for a ride and everything seems better, except sometimes it surges going into 3rd gear. But as for the engine, it runs smoother and doesn't seem to be running rich now.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...