98gpgt Posted July 5, 2017 Report Share Posted July 5, 2017 As I actually think about it there probably are a dozen or dozens of ways to do it. This just came to mind - coating the wheels with some sort of die or paint and observing the pattern as you roll away. But then there's the part about front of tires being a hair closer then at the rear. But then a pattern will imprint that would indicate that I'm thinking. But many ways regardless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digitaloutsider Posted July 5, 2017 Report Share Posted July 5, 2017 On my Jeep because it's about as simple as a lawn tractor, yes. On a FWD car, no.. I've done them ON alignment racks. It requires a little more precision than you have with paint and your eyeballs. Just take it somewhere.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 olds vert Posted July 5, 2017 Report Share Posted July 5, 2017 I have done a tape measure alignment myself, just to get it close. Then I take it somewhere. digitaloutsider 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imp558 Posted July 5, 2017 Report Share Posted July 5, 2017 Some used alignment machines are in the $500 range. If they can't do stupid large wheels they have to get replaced with a new model.p Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted July 7, 2017 Report Share Posted July 7, 2017 Just had this discussion on another forum. Apparently everyone believes that "setting the toe" is the equivalent of a true and proper alignment. Measuring the toe can be done with crude tools by an average person in an average driveway. That person will have to pay attention to what he's doing, but it can be done successfully. The problem is, that's the last angle to be adjusted. You need to have already verified camber and caster before setting the toe. Measuring camber is more difficult. Now you need slip-plates, an accurate gauge, and in most cases, a way to mount that gauge that takes into account wheel runout. The best you can hope for is a magnetic camber/caster gauge that sticks to a machined surface on the wheel hub--no mounting adapter needed, therefore no runout adjustment needed. Good luck--it's rare that a hub has an accessible machined surface. Usually, the machined surface is entirely covered by the wheel--so you need that mounting adapter and the runout adjustment. Measuring caster is even more difficult. You'll need some kind of protractor to measure how much of an angle you're turning the wheels, because most magnetic camber/caster gauges require you to stick the gauge onto your mounting, then swing the wheel a certain number of degrees one way, level the bubble, then swing the wheel the same number of degrees the other way. Of course, you need to have the vehicle level side-to-side, or you're reading vehicle tilt along with vehicle camber. The vehicle has to be level front-to-rear, or you're reading the slope along with the caster. You need the tires inflated, the ride-height within spec, and no excess wear to the ball joints, tie rod ends, idler arm, control arm bushings, or any other steering/suspension parts. Truth: If a car that hasn't been in a collision is out-of-alignment, you'd better look to see what is worn-out. Making a bunch of adjustments does nothing but waste time when the real problem is rotted suspension bushings or wiped ball-joints. I got my ass torn off on the other forum by a guy who refused to explain his "procedure"; because I had the gall to state that "DIY alignments are not for sissies." Imp558 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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