Rounded bolts on backside of front hub. Options?

[98gpgt]

I tried the Craftsman bolt out kit I bought 8 years ago - nah. I figure it's best to remove the spindle?\steering knuckle? and grind the bolts off. Lower left is the biggest problem, upper also screwy. I did not have this problem when I did the passenger side over a year ago. Help.

 

...or what about drilling off the heads?

[digitaloutsider]

Which car? On a second gen, I'd honestly just replace the whole knuckle. They're everywhere in the junkyard and it's not a bad job.

[98gpgt]

98 GP GT. You'll still have an old bearing, and additional expense and labor. Don't see the logic at all. Maybe vice grips, mine are busted. We'll see.

[55trucker]

You're going to need serious heat to unseize the bolt threads from the hub bearing. Pick yourself up a Mapp Gas set & then.......

 

it's best to remove the the axle shaft & remove the tie rod end so you can freely turn the knuckle assembly for access to the backside.......

 

1. select a slightly smaller deep socket ( a 12 pointer might work better than a 6 pointer) that can be driven onto the rounded bolt heads.

2. heat up the hub where the bolts are threaded into the hub to free them.

3. drive on the socket & turn out the bolts

 

     replace the hub afterwards.

 

 

https://www.lowes.com/pd/BernzOmatic-Cutting-Welding-and-Brazing-Torch-Kit/50126405

[Imp558]

I've actually been through this, on a first gen but the idea is the same. I used a cutout wheel to slice through the hub assembly at the siezed bolt, making a cut along what would be the length of the bolt inside the hub assembly threads.This effectively cuts most of the bolt lengthwise.

Then a chizel to spread the metal releasing it from the threads and either a small pin to drive the bolt or it will thread out easily.

Just have to be careful not to nick and cut into the spindle assembly. I also have attempted to use Craftsman bolt extractors with never a single success.

[98gpgt]

I just may be sick enough to try that (the cutoff method, never owned nor used mapp gas, and I'm queezy about gas, other then propane anyway). Cool tip, no pun intended, thanks. Question is are bolts from Home Depot sufficient replacement? And once the hub is removed, won't you still need some heat even if you split the threaded portion and twist out with a screwdriver presumably? It's just awkward working in there, I should have been paying better attention and rotated the axle some as the clip on the cv boot was in the way. There is rust on that side of the car, but my socket is fat and I was probably being sloppy.

[98gpgt]

Ok I understand there's far less tension on the bolt at that point. Trying to attacha photo ... Grrrrrr

[55trucker]

SAE minimum bolt strength is Grade 5, pick yourself up at least that or get some Grade 8's. The OEM bolts will have a shoulder at the head, regular aftermarket NON automotive bolts will not.

 

Think of Mapp Gas as a miniature oxy-acetylene kit.

[98gpgt]

I've owned a small "truck" o/a torch for years, just never got around to using it. Have to have it all checked out, pressure tested or whatever (it's used). Bought it for jewelery type lost-wax casting. A hobby.

[Imp558]

Auto parts store should have the correct bolts, not in the general hardware section but by application. In the future stuff like this should be saturated with a good penetrating oil like pb and allowed to sit before attempting removal.

[98gpgt]

Thing is I've had limited worthwhile success w/PB. Never used the CRC stuff. I soaked a seized gearwrench in a gallon can of wd-40 for like 2 years, different substance I know, and it still didn't loosen it. Soaked it with PB a few weeks ago, it loosened up yeaterday when I applied it to a bolt. With this sort of arrangement my guess is penetrant will only be of assistance once the bolt starts to loosen up. I personally haven't seen any miracles happen by way of penetrant. Maybe it's just me. Often you have to sit there, spray, tap tap tap tap, respray, rap some more. But I have the car up and the fact that I'm now seated on the garage floor and am pissed off may mean I'll get these off yet.

[Galaxie500XL]

IIRC, the main ingredient of WD-40 is fish oil.  It's not a very effective penetrating oil.

 

I'd be inclined to replace the entire knuckle, then install a new bearing.  I get kind of nervous doing heavy heating/pounding/grinding on something that supports an entire corner of the car.  I'm paranoid I'll have damaged it in a way that I won't find until I'm in the middle of nowhere travelling at warp 8.

[Imp558]

shouldn't have to replace the whole spindle assembly. If you're cutting carefully on the four corners of the hub assembly then there shouldn't be anything wrong with it. the hub assemblies getting replaced anyway.

[98gpgt]

Theres only 3 bolts. Can't get in there with a die grinder/cutoff wheel. A dremel only, may not even have it with me.Hub itself is in tje way.

[Imp558]

How bad is the wheel bearing? You may be able to get the shaft free and separate the two parts of the hub assembly if the bearing is really shot, then the holes to cut would be right in front of you. I believe I used a die grinder with a small cutoff wheel the first time and my 3" angle grinder the second time but I only had 1 stuck bolt each time to deal with.

 

A good penetrating oil like pb will wick into the threads, that's the premise. I usually hose them down good at least 15 minutes before I'm ready and it's been a good ally.

[98gpgt]

No dice and soaked everything with pb. Even the bolt that came out some. You back it out so far amd it starts to get tight. Holy crap I'm really going to have to saw this mess off. And I can only find one of my spring compressors, it's a given knuckle has to come off I guess.unless I cut off chunks of the hub. There is noticeable play in tne bearing at every angle. Anyone know the type of bolt? The 3 sets I got from Azone are all wrong, they fall right through the new hub.

[Imp558]

they gave you the wrong hub assembly there are two different sized holes. I want to say one has 14mm holes in it and the other has 10 mm. you'll have to take it back and compare it to another one out of stock but do not put that on there.

[98gpgt]

As far as I know the hubs are identical, the other installed on the pass side with no issues. I never said I bought the hub from Azone, just the bolts. Didn't have a clue which kind it takes, just tookna chance. Hubs purchased on ebay more then a year ago.

[Imp558]

Wait, this is a second gen, the bolts are threaded into the hub assembly from behind the spindle or into the spindle from in front of the hub assembly?

[98gpgt]

From behind.

[Imp558]

okay then you need to cut or grind the hub assembly to relieve the bolts. drilling the bolts is not as much fun as it sounds because they're crazy hard hardened. then you can take one of them into the auto parts store and tell him what you need

[98gpgt]

Next week. Have to work all weekend. I'll attempt to cut allong the lengths of the bolts as you suggested, and spreadi g the metal with something, provided I'm able to slit as much as I need to. I put the car back together, drove about 12 miles. I'll probably take it to work, although ball joints probably need replacing as well as tie rods. And motor/tranny mounts. Beggorah.

[Imp558]

I'm an idiot, there was a second gen assembly 15 feet away from me. This is about the same as a first gen or an H- Body. I'd either make an incision with an angle grinder about like the first picture and then spread it open the rest of the way with a chisel leaving only half of a bolt in there to deal with like I marked the first picture here.

 

or I would use a grinder wheel on the angle grinder to remove an area like what I have marked in this section on the second picture.

 

I've done it both ways with success. Theoretically you could drill through one of those holes in the hub portion of the assembly and drill down the middle of the bolts but they're crazy hard man.

just be careful not to nick the spindle too bad or you will have to replace it for safety.

[98gpgt]

I had thought you meant making a slit perpendicular to the line in the first picture ...

[Imp558]

I've done that too, but it only works with a dremel. If you have an angle grinder it's fastest to do the first pic, and safest to do the second