Thabulldog Posted November 30, 2003 Report Posted November 30, 2003 Wow my heat sucks. The car could be running for an hour and it just puts out lukewarm air. Any causes for this? Quote
93GTP Posted November 30, 2003 Report Posted November 30, 2003 Sounds like you're thermostat is stuck open. Other that or you have some blockages in your heater core. Where does the temp gauge normally go to when your car is fully warmed up? Quote
Thabulldog Posted November 30, 2003 Author Report Posted November 30, 2003 Well the Tstat is new. The car gets up to 220 then the fans come on and keep it at 180. The rad and hoses are all new but the heater core isnt. Could it be the heater core causing this? Quote
PaPaPooh Posted November 30, 2003 Report Posted November 30, 2003 did you bleed the air off the system after new things went on? just an idea. but im not sure the air would stay there. mine didn't Quote
Thabulldog Posted November 30, 2003 Author Report Posted November 30, 2003 Well im just assuming that they bled it. I dont think it would be a bad idea to do it myself a lil later. Thanks for the idea PaPa. Quote
phantomshado Posted November 30, 2003 Report Posted November 30, 2003 I've got ten bucks that says its a blown heater core. Quote
Thabulldog Posted November 30, 2003 Author Report Posted November 30, 2003 I've got ten bucks that says its a blown heater core. Wouldnt it leak then? Like all over the pavement and make it wet inside? I'm not losing coolant at all. Quote
DOHCRagtopguy Posted December 1, 2003 Report Posted December 1, 2003 Five will get your ten that it's a bad T-stat. Quote
phantomshado Posted December 1, 2003 Report Posted December 1, 2003 Ok, I was bluffing about the 10 bucks, I'm ultra poor. Anyways, I've seen blown heater cores that don't leak before. Namely in crown vic's. (three of them. man, fords suck man pole) I hope its a Tstat, a heater core is a bitch and a half job. Quote
Thabulldog Posted December 1, 2003 Author Report Posted December 1, 2003 How can I check the Tstat then? Just pull it out and see if its stuck open? But even when the car is warmed up then shouldnt the heat be good, just taking longer to heat up Quote
ismellrealbad Posted December 1, 2003 Report Posted December 1, 2003 when my car was unltra low on coolant (like half the rad was empty ) the temp guage would soar up and then when enough coolant passed by the cts the cts would read a normal number and heat would come out hot. if the guage was reading erratically the heat was cold Quote
Thabulldog Posted December 1, 2003 Author Report Posted December 1, 2003 The car has plenty of coolant, I check it weekly. Quote
slick Posted December 1, 2003 Report Posted December 1, 2003 Take it out, and put it in some boiling water on your stove. That's how we've checked some here at our house! Quote
Thabulldog Posted December 1, 2003 Author Report Posted December 1, 2003 And the stat should open up in the boiling water right? Quote
Brian P Posted December 1, 2003 Report Posted December 1, 2003 your metal lines probably have built in crud inside. Like the line that runs from the waterpump, around the pass side of the bay, then across the firewall to the heater core inlet. Replace that with new. This was my problem with my '90. Also replace the rubber line on the core outlet (adjacent to the inlet hose) and check that metal U-bend for crud. But, if your temp hits 220 while driving, then it's probably air in your system. Temp should never pass 202F while doing over 30mph Quote
Thabulldog Posted December 1, 2003 Author Report Posted December 1, 2003 your metal lines probably have built in crud inside. Like the line that runs from the waterpump, around the pass side of the bay, then across the firewall to the heater core inlet. Replace that with new. This was my problem with my '90. Also replace the rubber line on the core outlet (adjacent to the inlet hose) and check that metal U-bend for crud. But, if your temp hits 220 while driving, then it's probably air in your system. Temp should never pass 202F while doing over 30mph Are these lines hard to replace? Like do I have to go all the way down to the heater core or does it connect to something closer? I'm going to attempt to start doing my own work since my friend's shop closed up in NYC (20 million for the property) and the local guy I goto has all new people and they are all assholes that try to sell things I know I don't need. Also the temp rises when moving slow or at idle, naturally. It never gets that hot when I'm moving but since I live in NYC there is almost always traffic in the morning on the way to school, I only get one good run once i get on the highway usually. Thanks for everyone's input and help by the way. Quote
ismellrealbad Posted December 1, 2003 Report Posted December 1, 2003 my car never goes over 210 ideling now thats its working right. and its at about 180 while driving. long trips might climb upto 190 Quote
Brian P Posted December 1, 2003 Report Posted December 1, 2003 your metal lines probably have built in crud inside. Like the line that runs from the waterpump, around the pass side of the bay, then across the firewall to the heater core inlet. Replace that with new. This was my problem with my '90. Also replace the rubber line on the core outlet (adjacent to the inlet hose) and check that metal U-bend for crud. But, if your temp hits 220 while driving, then it's probably air in your system. Temp should never pass 202F while doing over 30mph Are these lines hard to replace? Like do I have to go all the way down to the heater core or does it connect to something closer? I'm going to attempt to start doing my own work since my friend's shop closed up in NYC (20 million for the property) and the local guy I goto has all new people and they are all assholes that try to sell things I know I don't need. Also the temp rises when moving slow or at idle, naturally. It never gets that hot when I'm moving but since I live in NYC there is almost always traffic in the morning on the way to school, I only get one good run once i get on the highway usually. Thanks for everyone's input and help by the way. yeah all the work is underhood, just follow the line to the firewall, you'll see it, most you'll have to do is tilt the engine Quote
Thabulldog Posted December 1, 2003 Author Report Posted December 1, 2003 [quote name="Brian P yeah all the work is underhood' date=' just follow the line to the firewall, you'll see it, most you'll have to do is tilt the engine[/quote] Thanks Brian, I'll take a look tomorrow to see the gravity of the situation. Quote
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