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Heat sucks!


Thabulldog

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Well the Tstat is new. The car gets up to 220 then the fans come on and keep it at 180. The rad and hoses are all new but the heater core isnt. Could it be the heater core causing this?

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Ok, I was bluffing about the 10 bucks, I'm ultra poor.

 

Anyways, I've seen blown heater cores that don't leak before. Namely in crown vic's. (three of them. man, fords suck man pole)

I hope its a Tstat, a heater core is a bitch and a half job.

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How can I check the Tstat then? Just pull it out and see if its stuck open? But even when the car is warmed up then shouldnt the heat be good, just taking longer to heat up

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when my car was unltra low on coolant (like half the rad was empty :roll: ) the temp guage would soar up and then when enough coolant passed by the cts the cts would read a normal number and heat would come out hot. if the guage was reading erratically the heat was cold

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your metal lines probably have built in crud inside. Like the line that runs from the waterpump, around the pass side of the bay, then across the firewall to the heater core inlet. Replace that with new. This was my problem with my '90. Also replace the rubber line on the core outlet (adjacent to the inlet hose) and check that metal U-bend for crud.

 

But, if your temp hits 220 while driving, then it's probably air in your system. Temp should never pass 202F while doing over 30mph

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your metal lines probably have built in crud inside. Like the line that runs from the waterpump, around the pass side of the bay, then across the firewall to the heater core inlet. Replace that with new. This was my problem with my '90. Also replace the rubber line on the core outlet (adjacent to the inlet hose) and check that metal U-bend for crud.

 

But, if your temp hits 220 while driving, then it's probably air in your system. Temp should never pass 202F while doing over 30mph

 

Are these lines hard to replace? Like do I have to go all the way down to the heater core or does it connect to something closer? I'm going to attempt to start doing my own work since my friend's shop closed up in NYC (20 million for the property) and the local guy I goto has all new people and they are all assholes that try to sell things I know I don't need. Also the temp rises when moving slow or at idle, naturally. It never gets that hot when I'm moving but since I live in NYC there is almost always traffic in the morning on the way to school, I only get one good run once i get on the highway usually. Thanks for everyone's input and help by the way.

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your metal lines probably have built in crud inside. Like the line that runs from the waterpump, around the pass side of the bay, then across the firewall to the heater core inlet. Replace that with new. This was my problem with my '90. Also replace the rubber line on the core outlet (adjacent to the inlet hose) and check that metal U-bend for crud.

 

But, if your temp hits 220 while driving, then it's probably air in your system. Temp should never pass 202F while doing over 30mph

 

Are these lines hard to replace? Like do I have to go all the way down to the heater core or does it connect to something closer? I'm going to attempt to start doing my own work since my friend's shop closed up in NYC (20 million for the property) and the local guy I goto has all new people and they are all assholes that try to sell things I know I don't need. Also the temp rises when moving slow or at idle, naturally. It never gets that hot when I'm moving but since I live in NYC there is almost always traffic in the morning on the way to school, I only get one good run once i get on the highway usually. Thanks for everyone's input and help by the way.

 

yeah all the work is underhood, just follow the line to the firewall, you'll see it, most you'll have to do is tilt the engine

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[quote name="Brian P

 

yeah all the work is underhood' date=' just follow the line to the firewall, you'll see it, most you'll have to do is tilt the engine[/quote]

 

Thanks Brian, I'll take a look tomorrow to see the gravity of the situation.

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