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Grandprix1's Top Swap parts list


Grandprix1

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Most of the 00+ I've seen were gray. I do have a set of square emblems

Yeah most I see are silver. I don't really like the squared off badges tbh.

 

 

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I've removed the quick disconnects off the fuel rail. Now how does one go about getting the line off the connection or do I need to buy new lines and connections

 

 

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What??

Where the guy cut or broke the fuel lines off the fuel rail is connected to the quick disconnect that I removed off the fuel rail. Do my fuel lines just connect there with their weird connections that don't look anything like these or do I splice my lines onto the L67 fuel rail quick disconnects 

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You have two options: just connect the current fuel lines to the rail, despite the bends

 

or

 

Buy these and use them instead:

 

http://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/dorman,800057,fuel+line+connector,10149

http://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/dorman,800058,fuel+line+connector,10149

 

Good call, I totally forgot about the fuel lines having that 90 degree bend in them. 

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You have two options: just connect the current fuel lines to the rail, despite the bends

 

or

 

Buy these and use them instead:

 

http://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/dorman,800057,fuel+line+connector,10149

http://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/dorman,800058,fuel+line+connector,10149

 

Good call, I totally forgot about the fuel lines having that 90 degree bend in them.

If I'm able to just connect my current fuel lines to the rail regardless of those 90 degree bends then that's what I'll do.

 

 

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My only concern is the stress that's putting on the fuel lines.  Maybe someone else can chime in, but if it were my car, I'd do the straight quick connects.

 

Edit:  I bounced it off Chris and he just rotated the lines around and used them, and that car is still running around, so I guess it's probably OK.  I guess we'll play it by ear.  If it looks that bad, you can always put the straight connectors on later.

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My only concern is the stress that's putting on the fuel lines.  Maybe someone else can chime in, but if it were my car, I'd do the straight quick connects.

 

Edit:  I bounced it off Chris and he just rotated the lines around and used them, and that car is still running around, so I guess it's probably OK.  I guess we'll play it by ear.  If it looks that bad, you can always put the straight connectors on later.

Yeah I agree with you on that one. But then how do we splice the new straight line connection into the current fuel rails? Do I need both of those connectors or just one of them? Ill add them to the parts list. 

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There is a brass barbed fitting inside that kit that connects the new straight thru line to your old line.

 

You need both.

Ok I've added them to the list. Do I need 2 of each? For the 2 connections on the fuel rail 

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I also need to do rocker arm bolts as they are torque to yield

 

 

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Now I know you can figure this one out yourself.

im going to go with no because nothing is changing on the drive line. The only thing that's changing is going to be adding supercharger stuff

 

 

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I wanted to get the proper lines when I did my L67 swap, but in the end I just rotated them around and they worked just fine. Over 100k miles on that swap now.

 

Also, Dorman does make a really nice nylon fuel line kit, that allows you to  cut and splice the lines but its quite expensive.

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There's an easy way you can confirm that to be true, on your phone right now. The power of the Internet (and online parts catalogs)!

According to rock autos catalog the drive belts for both the NA and SC are the same part number meaning they are the same so I can just reuse my current belt

 

 

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I wanted to get the proper lines when I did my L67 swap, but in the end I just rotated them around and they worked just fine. Over 100k miles on that swap now.

Do the 90* connectors turn on the line?

 

 

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According to rock autos catalog the drive belts for both the NA and SC are the same part number meaning they are the same so I can just reuse my current belt

 

 

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There ya go.

 

 

I wanted to get the proper lines when I did my L67 swap, but in the end I just rotated them around and they worked just fine. Over 100k miles on that swap now.

 

Also, Dorman does make a really nice nylon fuel line kit, that allows you to  cut and splice the lines but its quite expensive.

 

I linked to the sizes he needs earlier in the thread. $20 for both sides.

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There ya go.

 

 

 

 

I linked to the sizes he needs earlier in the thread. $20 for both sides.

So I just need 1 of each? That's better then needed 2 for each side

 

 

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