Grandprix1 Posted April 26, 2017 Report Share Posted April 26, 2017 Ok so I'm top swapping my 2002 Grand Prix GT. Here is the parts list that I am working with (Minus the heads, supercharger, lower intake manifold, fuel rail, and stock injectors.) Im a senior in high school with college starting in the fall so any donations would be greatly appreciated to keep costs down but I don't mind purchasing them from you using PayPal. Gaskets I'm not to worried about as id like to purchase those new. Id also like to keep things OEM or Fel Pro. Anything else anyone would like to add or offer please don't hesitate to message me or post in the thread! Thank you guys so much!! Vacuum lines that go around the blower L67 MAP and MAP bracket/EVAP bracket L67 harmonic balancer L67 W-body SC pulleys L67 W-body tensioners ICM and coil pack and engine mount bracket Head bolts. Head gaskets. LIM gasket set. SC gasket. SC belt Fuel Injector O Rings. Grandprix1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l67ss Posted April 26, 2017 Report Share Posted April 26, 2017 I actually make a metal vacuum line kit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imp558 Posted April 26, 2017 Report Share Posted April 26, 2017 (edited) 2 bottles of SC oil SC coupler MAP Sensor plug Boost Sol Plug Edit: Valve seals Edit: Machine shop time I used old GM hard plastic vacuum lines and end pieces from other cars, a little heat and they bend into quite literally any shape. A lot of people hate hard plastic lines but they're super easy to work with, look good and work fine. Edit: MAP and Evap brackets if you want to make it look stock, the MAP has 2 holes in it and will screw to the firewall just fine and the EVAP Solenoid and Switch bracket can slide onto any hunk of sheetmetal you cut to the right width. I thought they were ugly so they got located on the driver's wheelwell. Edited April 26, 2017 by Imp558 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l67ss Posted April 26, 2017 Report Share Posted April 26, 2017 I had issues with plastic lines cracking under hard braking. Why I started doing metal lines lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imp558 Posted April 26, 2017 Report Share Posted April 26, 2017 I had issues with plastic lines cracking under hard braking. Why I started doing metal lines lol You had issues with plastic vacuum lines cracking from braking too hard? They must have been baked really badly, those are usually so flexible they can be tied in a knot without breaking. White93z34 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l67ss Posted April 26, 2017 Report Share Posted April 26, 2017 It always crack near the map by the alternator Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digitaloutsider Posted April 26, 2017 Report Share Posted April 26, 2017 Yep, I've broken them there. And I've broken them where the stupid vacuum line runs down next to the battery in the 2Gs. The 3800 line that runs from the TB to the EVAP is very prone to cracking, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grandprix1 Posted April 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2017 I actually make a metal vacuum line kit Is it stock or does it look stock and connect to stock locations? If so how much? 2 bottles of SC oil SC coupler MAP Sensor plug Boost Sol Plug Edit: Valve seals Edit: Machine shop time I used old GM hard plastic vacuum lines and end pieces from other cars, a little heat and they bend into quite literally any shape. A lot of people hate hard plastic lines but they're super easy to work with, look good and work fine. Edit: MAP and Evap brackets if you want to make it look stock, the MAP has 2 holes in it and will screw to the firewall just fine and the EVAP Solenoid and Switch bracket can slide onto any hunk of sheetmetal you cut to the right width. I thought they were ugly so they got located on the driver's wheelwell. Im hoping to pull the evaporation brackets of the a GTP at the JY today. Do the heads NEED to go to a machine shop? Im thinking with 100k miles on them they should be fine as they came off a perfectly running car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l67ss Posted April 26, 2017 Report Share Posted April 26, 2017 I can paint them black so they'll look stock. And they connect to stock locations. $30 shipped Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grandprix1 Posted April 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2017 I can paint them black so they'll look stock. And they connect to stock locations. $30 shipped Let me see what I pull out of the junkyard today. I most likely will take them though. I get paid tomorrow so ill let you know. Thank you so much!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grandprix1 Posted April 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2017 I can paint them black so they'll look stock. And they connect to stock locations. $30 shipped I also should wait and see what comes with the SC he said I may still need vacuum lines but its got stuff with it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digitaloutsider Posted April 26, 2017 Report Share Posted April 26, 2017 If you're at the junkyard anyway, just grab the vacuum lines. Just the ones that go around the blower that attach to the MAP, LIM, FPR, and boost control solenoid. And the hard line that runs to the EVAP. It's nice to have on hand. Get them off a 98+. The 97s are specific to 97. Since they're cheap/pocketable, get a vacuum tree off the top of a blower, they're easy to break and it's good to keep a spare around. For a MAP sensor, you can buy an adapter harness from ZZP, which is a little pricey, but at least it's super easy. Or cut the pigtail off a junkyard car and splice it into your harness when you do the topswap. If the heads came right off a running car and there's no rust or obvious problems, I'd have no problem reusing 100k heads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grandprix1 Posted April 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2017 Well the trip to the JY was a bust. Had a 97 GTP up there but I could get the pulleys off it. all the vacuum lines broke once I touched them Grabbed a GTP badge though. Also had a Regal GS up there but same thing the minute I touched anything it broke. Also couldn't get the pulleys off that. this is going to be a lot harder then I thought... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digitaloutsider Posted April 26, 2017 Report Share Posted April 26, 2017 Just curious, how can you not get the pullies off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grandprix1 Posted April 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2017 Just curious, how can you not get the pullies off? Took the Bolt off the idler pulley and the pulley its self would come off. Then I want to try and get the engine mount off for the ICM bracket but couldnt break it loose Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digitaloutsider Posted April 26, 2017 Report Share Posted April 26, 2017 I think you need to hit the gym. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grandprix1 Posted April 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2017 I think you need to hit the gym. Your not wrong... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grandprix1 Posted April 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2017 Can anyone take a picture of the engine bay and label roughly the things Im going to need. Ill need a map for looking for parts. Idk these engines well enough like I do the L36 everything is out of place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l67ss Posted April 26, 2017 Report Share Posted April 26, 2017 When the rain slows I'll snap a pic of mine Grandprix1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grandprix1 Posted April 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2017 Im working with a guy on 3800 Marketplace for the L67 MAP and MAP bracket/EVAP bracket ICM and coil pack and engine mount bracket Hes stripping the engine getting ready to junk the car will have to see how much he will charge me for those and I may see if he will get me all the tensioners and pulleys as well as the bolts that go with that stuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imp558 Posted April 27, 2017 Report Share Posted April 27, 2017 Slow down Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grandprix1 Posted April 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2017 Slow down Yes very good advice!! if I can get everything for cheap shipped then I will try and get everything off his motor that I need left. which is small things then I need to do gaskets and bolts and then install Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grandprix1 Posted April 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2017 Ok so I should have all the parts here soon except head bolts and gaskets. this guy may even help install Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grandprix1 Posted April 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2017 Do I need L67 valve covers? I thought they were the same Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l67ss Posted April 27, 2017 Report Share Posted April 27, 2017 Coil bracket you need Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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