sampuppy1 Posted April 14, 2017 Report Share Posted April 14, 2017 So most of you have probably seen the boosted Buick on here already. And you know my lucky streak (well, lack thereof) I just tackled the oil pan gasket and a new pan as the old one was leaking and the pan was caved in. After sitting a few days with the pan off I got back at it today. Only to find coolant running down the crank....... Inside....... I tracked it up and it's running out from a lifter towards the rear (left) of the engine. LIM? Head gasket? I have valve cover gaskets already. Do I just say fuck it and go all the way down and do head gaskets now? I know LIM gaskets are a common failure. But I'm unsure if this would cause a leak into the crank case. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk Tyler/T-Unit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imp558 Posted April 14, 2017 Report Share Posted April 14, 2017 I personally would do the lim and watch it. It makes sense to do head gaskets too now but thats a bigger job and you run the risk of breaking an exhaust stud. If the engine were out it would be a no brainer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sampuppy1 Posted April 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2017 Why can I not win with w-bodies. Something needs to go right. Just one time. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk Tyler/T-Unit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sampuppy1 Posted April 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2017 I'm going back to work Monday. It's not pouring out but us it alright to run it for a little while as is? Or should I just dig in? I gotta wait a week or two ideally as I have house projects to get done the rest of the weekend. I can also drive the truck if need be. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk Tyler/T-Unit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nas Escobar Posted April 14, 2017 Report Share Posted April 14, 2017 I'd dig in if I was you. Head Gaskets usually fail when the engine overheats and warps the gasket (and sometimes the head) but LIMG will forever fail whenever they're made out of nylon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imp558 Posted April 14, 2017 Report Share Posted April 14, 2017 I would do it first as well. At best you're going to contaminate your fresh oil and at worst you could end up washing out a bearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imp558 Posted April 14, 2017 Report Share Posted April 14, 2017 I would have looked at oil pan sequence up for you if I would have seen the other thread earlier. As it stands all data does not have the sequence so I would have done exactly what you did. it does give the torque spec at 125 inch-pounds like you found it though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digitaloutsider Posted April 14, 2017 Report Share Posted April 14, 2017 Strangely, Techline does not suggest a proper sequence, only the torque of 125 in/lbs and to use threadlocker on the bolts. x2, if there's coolant in the oil, do not drive it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imp558 Posted April 14, 2017 Report Share Posted April 14, 2017 Strangely, Techline does not suggest a proper sequence, only the torque of 125 in/lbs and to use threadlocker on the bolts. x2, if there's coolant in the oil, do not drive it. Would it be worthwhile to make a torque spec subsection on the forum and let users roll threads like "L36" and "First Gen Suspension" and such? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imp558 Posted April 14, 2017 Report Share Posted April 14, 2017 Or I guess a reality bitchin thread in FAQ would work. ..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digitaloutsider Posted April 14, 2017 Report Share Posted April 14, 2017 I went ahead and added torque specs for the 3100, 3400, LQ1, and 3800 in the FAQ section. Psych0matt and Imp558 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sampuppy1 Posted April 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2017 Strangely, Techline does not suggest a proper sequence, only the torque of 125 in/lbs and to use threadlocker on the bolts. x2, if there's coolant in the oil, do not drive it. My quick Google searching before the RTV had time to set up brought up nothing except for pictures of pans and other miscellaneous bs. Glad we are all on the same page though. I definitely air on the side of not driving it. I know oil And coolant do not make a good pair. I'll be digging in in the next week or so. The work season usually starts out a little sluggish anyways. But I may have to use the car here and there but it won't be my first pick for daily use until I tackle the LIMG. Or I guess a reality bitchin thread in FAQ would work. .....That sounds awesome. I went ahead and added torque specs for the 3100, 3400, LQ1, and 3800 in the FAQ section.See, shit like this is precisely why I involve myself in forums. This one in particular is very responsive to their members and the admins/mods make themselves available to the users. We may not know each other personally but it's a tight knit group that is there for their members. And that is what makes or breaks social networking. I really appreciate the regulars. You guys are what keeps the place going. I hope I can keep a w-body long enough to set myself up in this community. And I look forward to any opportunities to meet some of you in the future. You've all been a huge help to me since my first w. Back to business..... Any solid recommendations for LIMG? If I'm going to do it, I might as well spend the money and do it right the first time. If I have to order stuff online I'd rather get the ball rolling sooner than later. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk Tyler/T-Unit Nas Escobar and Grandprix1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digitaloutsider Posted April 15, 2017 Report Share Posted April 15, 2017 See, shit like this is precisely why I involve myself in forums. This one in particular is very responsive to their members and the admins/mods make themselves available to the users. We may not know each other personally but it's a tight knit group that is there for their members. And that is what makes or breaks social networking. I really appreciate the regulars. You guys are what keeps the place going. I hope I can keep a w-body long enough to set myself up in this community. And I look forward to any opportunities to meet some of you in the future. You've all been a huge help to me since my first w. That's one of the big reasons why I hope forums never die in lieu of Facebook groups. It requires a certain amount of dedication to join a forum and visit daily, and it generally keeps the trolls and low quality posts away. The member base here is comprised of very passionate and dedicated folks, there's a reason I haven't left in 14 years. I'm glad we could help. As for the LIMG, http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2005806&cc=1371114 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nas Escobar Posted April 15, 2017 Report Share Posted April 15, 2017 Would it be worthwhile to make a torque spec subsection on the forum and let users roll threads like "L36" and "First Gen Suspension" and such? I think what would be worthwhile is a condensed thread where all the important links are posted for major stuff like 3800 swaps, LQ1 timing, 5 speed swaps, 1st gen coilovers, etc. I'd say sticky, but then the FAQ section would be unorganized. The sad thing about the forum is that a lot of information is there, but it's buried in 10 years worth of "x situation happened, what do i do now" and other kinds of threads. The other issue is that a lot of the information is outdated and the formatting is messed up ever since the fourm switch. I think there's 3 threads alone on rear coilovers for 1st gens but information is outdated, pictures are no longer available, and the member is no longer active to clear up certain parts of a post, and neither are the other members that used that method for coilsprings. If you already have coil springs in the back, I think it would be worth it to remake that thread even though BXX has a half how to floating around. I had planned to make a thread that was more official "how to" with better pictures when I did that, but if someone else does, that would be great as well. Or I guess a reality bitchin thread in FAQ would work. ..... I know the (Infiniti) G20 forum has condensed threads for all 2 versions of USDM G20's as well as the 3 European version of the car. They're divided by chassis codes and it has links to just about everything people ask. I've seen other forums do that too. See, shit like this is precisely why I involve myself in forums. This one in particular is very responsive to their members and the admins/mods make themselves available to the users. We may not know each other personally but it's a tight knit group that is there for their members. And that is what makes or breaks social networking. I really appreciate the regulars. You guys are what keeps the place going. I hope I can keep a w-body long enough to set myself up in this community. And I look forward to any opportunities to meet some of you in the future. You've all been a huge help to me since my first w. Back to business..... Any solid recommendations for LIMG? If I'm going to do it, I might as well spend the money and do it right the first time. If I have to order stuff online I'd rather get the ball rolling sooner than later. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk Tyler/T-Unit I prefer forums over facebook. Facebook is just one big "whatever thread" and things get lost when too many posts are made. As far as the LIMG, the ACDelco one that DigitalOutsider posted would work fine, but you'll also need a plenum set and I would also change the fuel injector o rings while the fuel rail is already off if I was you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sampuppy1 Posted April 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2017 That's one of the big reasons why I hope forums never die in lieu of Facebook groups. It requires a certain amount of dedication to join a forum and visit daily, and it generally keeps the trolls and low quality posts away. The member base here is comprised of very passionate and dedicated folks, there's a reason I haven't left in 14 years. I'm glad we could help. As for the LIMG, http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2005806&cc=1371114 Yeah I avoid asking questions on facebook. I can tell that the regulars here are dedicated individuals. Very similar to how I am with my truck. I visit the GMT400 forum daily as well. I'm committed. I think what would be worthwhile is a condensed thread where all the important links are posted for major stuff like 3800 swaps, LQ1 timing, 5 speed swaps, 1st gen coilovers, etc. I'd say sticky, but then the FAQ section would be unorganized. The sad thing about the forum is that a lot of information is there, but it's buried in 10 years worth of "x situation happened, what do i do now" and other kinds of threads. The other issue is that a lot of the information is outdated and the formatting is messed up ever since the fourm switch. I think there's 3 threads alone on rear coilovers for 1st gens but information is outdated, pictures are no longer available, and the member is no longer active to clear up certain parts of a post, and neither are the other members that used that method for coilsprings. If you already have coil springs in the back, I think it would be worth it to remake that thread even though BXX has a half how to floating around. I had planned to make a thread that was more official "how to" with better pictures when I did that, but if someone else does, that would be great as well. I know the (Infiniti) G20 forum has condensed threads for all 2 versions of USDM G20's as well as the 3 European version of the car. They're divided by chassis codes and it has links to just about everything people ask. I've seen other forums do that too. I prefer forums over facebook. Facebook is just one big "whatever thread" and things get lost when too many posts are made. As far as the LIMG, the ACDelco one that DigitalOutsider posted would work fine, but you'll also need a plenum set and I would also change the fuel injector o rings while the fuel rail is already off if I was you. I happen to have a new fuel rail for it. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk Tyler/T-Unit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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