White93z34 Posted March 15, 2017 Report Share Posted March 15, 2017 I've seen quite a bit of interest in this as of late, unfortunately its 18*f outside at the moment, I will though detail my process of it that has enabled me to actually drive my TGP without shitting myself over failing brakes. So till I get around to it, this will be a placeholder. Details will be added soon. GOT2B GM, 94 olds vert and digitaloutsider 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digitaloutsider Posted March 15, 2017 Report Share Posted March 15, 2017 unfortunately its 18*f outside at the moment Wuss. Imp558 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grandprix1 Posted March 15, 2017 Report Share Posted March 15, 2017 24 here. Performance shift going in this evening. Since your probably working with brake fluid I don't blame you. It's to cold for me Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nas Escobar Posted March 15, 2017 Report Share Posted March 15, 2017 24 here. Performance shift going in this evening. Since your probably working with brake fluid I don't blame you. It's to cold for me Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I can't do shit because I want to sand panels. Besides it's too windy. Grandprix1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imp558 Posted March 15, 2017 Report Share Posted March 15, 2017 Might as well fully derail Nunzi's thread. It's 24 here and Angel came home with a hunk torn out of her rump... again, can't imagine it was a fight with another cat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted March 15, 2017 Report Share Posted March 15, 2017 I have driven his TGP after the conversion, it works great. I will be doing this conversion to mine this summer. Imp558 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted March 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2017 I'll end up cleaning up the shitposting about the time I get underway on this again. Just for the record, don't expect a crazy easy bolt on and go, it just cannot be that simple. But will be far easier then pulling the entire dash and half the engine bay to swap a firewall plate. Though I'd argue I have FAR less time in this from concept to finish product then all the hours I spent troubleshooting PMIII Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jman093 Posted March 16, 2017 Report Share Posted March 16, 2017 But will be far easier then pulling the entire dash and half the engine bay to swap a firewall plate. NOW, I'm interested to hear this. Reading your first post, I assumed swapping firewall plates was what you're talking about. My three TGP's have PM3 functionality ranging from 0% to 50%. I've supposedly been 5 speed swapping one for the last two years, which will require the new firewall plate anyway, but my red car I've had the replacement firewall plate with vacuum setup laying in the garage floor ready to go for over a year now, but lacked motivation and a second reliable DD to drive while it's down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jman093 Posted April 28, 2017 Report Share Posted April 28, 2017 Is this fail thread ever going to happen? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted May 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2017 So, My apologises for not getting this off the ground. I ended up having a change of plans and put the TGP in storage for the year, perhaps I'll get it out sooner then later. But in the meantime, what I did was make a adapter plate the bolted to the firewall plate where the PMIII bracket used to be. I think I can get the drawing I used for it. Its not perfect and really could use the booster mounting holes moved down a tad, but it works as is. then I drilled 4 holes in the firewall plate to allow the bolts of the booster to slide through, though next time I'll probably just cut a big hole so I can actually bolt the booster on from the inside of the car, as it currently is you cannot do that and I about murdered my hands getting it on with the booster attached. Booster and master used were from a 4g F body. Though I just saw on Facebook, Bob seems to have used a Cadillac master cylinder of some kind, which looks to be a considerably better choice then I used. No matter what you get its is extremely important to get a master that is a F/R split design. Any other W body is dual diagional and at least with keeping the factory lines will not be right for this application. Then welding. You will need to cut the F body pushrod end off, and put the PMIII on the other side of it, adding length where necessary. Now the lines. I ended up cutting the ends off the front lines and reflareing them with regular SAE thread ends then joined them into a T fitting so I could have one line feed both front wheels. the other end I terminated with the fitting for the master cyl The rear lines I used an adapter to go from 1/4 line to 3/16 line and did the same thing I think have the recipts still with part numbers if wanted. I probably made this thread a bit prematurely, What I have works but needs to be redone to be fully polished. Its kinda messy at the moment. digitaloutsider 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canada4g63 Posted September 22, 2017 Report Share Posted September 22, 2017 I hope you finish this thread so i can get some more insite on the dreaded pm3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imp558 Posted November 13, 2017 Report Share Posted November 13, 2017 I was going to start a new thread but this is along the same lines and the information could still be useful here. Eliminating ABS, in my case not a PM III, I'm going to an earlier non-ABS MC, the ACDELCO 18M672. In the image there are two doodles that I can only imagine are prop valves to slide into the ports for the rear. It was said in another thread there is proportioning done internally. My theory is these are supplemental to be added if the vehicle has rear disk brakes but I'm hoping these are the internal prop valves and not supplimental. In my application I'm running second Gen brakes all around, on a second gen the prop valves for the rear are inline, the Dorman P/N is 905952. It has me wondering if in my application, or another first Gen doing a big brake upgrade if the Second Gen rear prop valves wouldn't be a better idea if the ACDELCO 18M672 internal prop valves are those removable things? It stands to reason we may be able to leave those doodles out and use the Second Gen prop valves to have it be more or less correct for the bigger brakes. Anybody have any input? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redgrandprix Posted May 5, 2018 Report Share Posted May 5, 2018 I suddenly have a need for this... pics or anything? Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GPChief Posted May 31, 2018 Report Share Posted May 31, 2018 Yes please, Any pics? Back in the day (been around a loooong time) “Chris A†did a f-Body brake swap that he drove for years. He cut the plate out of the f-body but didn’t mention needing to cut the brake booster arm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
negativeMatt Posted April 20, 2020 Report Share Posted April 20, 2020 I did a hydroboost swap on my 90 TGP and have been driving it now for 2 yrs with no issues. The brakes are phenomenal! I need to do a thread on it as it seems alot of these cars end up not being driven due to the junk brakes! jiggity76, MemphisMan and K&R 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jiggity76 Posted April 21, 2020 Report Share Posted April 21, 2020 23 hours ago, negativeMatt said: I did a hydroboost swap on my 90 TGP and have been driving it now for 2 yrs with no issues. The brakes are phenomenal! I need to do a thread on it as it seems alot of these cars end up not being driven due to the junk brakes! Yes, please do! I might need this info in the near future. K&R definitely needs this conversion and repair thread to fix his gorgeous and rare ABS equipped 90 CS vert. K&R 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
K&R Posted April 21, 2020 Report Share Posted April 21, 2020 YES! PLEASE MAKE A THREAD! My car goes around the block once every couple weeks and that is a far as I can drive it. The brakes are questionable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
K&R Posted April 21, 2020 Report Share Posted April 21, 2020 YES! PLEASE MAKE A THREAD! My car goes around the block once every couple weeks and that is a far as I can drive it. The brakes are questionable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted April 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2020 I'd love to see a complete Hydroboost setup My apologies guys, I had high hopes for doing this. Then I got pissed at the car, put it in storage, got married had some kids and haven't looked at the car since late 2017. Bake82 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted April 24, 2020 Report Share Posted April 24, 2020 On 4/21/2020 at 3:10 PM, White93z34 said: had some kids and haven't looked at the car since late 2017. Pretty-much always a mistake. rich_e777 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
negativeMatt Posted May 12, 2020 Report Share Posted May 12, 2020 I'll sit down and write up a "what I did" article. I'm in the middle of a 5 speed swap now. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk jiggity76 and K&R 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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