Front strut alignment tool

[GrandpasLumina]

Getting ready to put front struts in my 97 Lumina. I bought the W-body strut tool kit, and it came with the J 38844 strut alignment tool. I can't figure out what the purpose of the alignment tool is, or how to use it. The factory service manual doesn't really say anything, just to "install" it. I watched the video of the guy changing struts on a Regal, and he doesn't even use it.

 

Anybody know what's it's for/how to use it?

 

Here's the tool kit for reference:

https://www.amazon.com/AMPRO-T75505-Body-Strut-Service/dp/B00A4AK09C/

[Imp558]

It's for first gens and I never needed it or even knew it existed.

 

http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?chapterTitle=Front+Suspension&partName=Suspension+%252526+Steering&pageId=0900c1528006823b&subChapterTitle=Strut+Cartridge&partId=0900c15280068197

[White93z34]

On some first gens the spring will sit a bit funny and as soon as you pull the mount it will want to kick to one side or the other, that tool is to mitigate that movement.

[Imp558]

Haha, The first time I did front struts I brought them down, pulling the tie rod end to get more movement and pushing the CV shaft out of the hub. There was a spring compressor involved and it took all day. I thought we had the crappiest front strut assemblies. Now I can do front struts in an hour or so with a beer in one hand.

Edited February 24, 2017 by Imp558

[GrandpasLumina]

Thanks guys. I got it done today, and I ended up not using the tool. The driver's side did lean in quite a bit, but I found it easier to just take an extension and socket (24 mm?) to get some leverage while I tapped the insulator into place. I was impressed that this 150k car still had the factory struts.

 

By the way, if anybody from the future is reading this, make sure you have a 6 mm hex bit if you buy the KYB struts.

[Imp558]

I jack the car up and that pulls the bushing in.

[Knight1o1]

Strut Cartridge Removal (cartridge only) method owners have the option to
​remove the cartridge from the top without underbody access? This does
​not remove any parts. The Chilton online manual [http://www.chiltondiy.com/]explains
​both methods of servicing struts for our W-body cars.
​- I performed this using the W-body strut tool kit with the included (J 35668?)

to remove the jounce bumper which is the main step to remove the
​Strut bumper.

 

Advantage: If this goes right it can be much quicker; jacking the car
(underbody ​access) to dismount and removing the whole strut assembly
including the springs is unnecessary.

 

Disadvantage: owners should perform the Strut Overhaul service
instead to replace other underbody issues and parts including coil springs.
 

[Imp558]

I don't have any of the tools I reach through the spring with a pipe wrench and do the nut from the wheel well

[Nas Escobar]

I don't have any of the tools I reach through the spring with a pipe wrench and do the nut from the wheel well

 

I thought the whole joke of the strut cartridges was that you didn't have to jack up the car. So I'm assuming you're jacking up the car, then compressing the spindle with the jack?

[Imp558]

1) I jack up the car and set jack stands on the A-arms, remove the wheels.

2) Then I undo the caps and unbolt the tops of the struts and pry the bushings out.

3) Then I undo the twisted wire that holds the strut bellows on my car and reach in through the spring with the pipe wrench to loosen the tube-cap-upper-strut-body-holder-wtf-things.

4) After that the strut cartridges come up and out, I dump some of whatever oil I have sitting around (usually jack oil) down the hole since I don't have any idea how much is in there.

5) The tube-cap-upper-strut-body-holder-wtf-things get slid down onto the new strut cartridges and the strut cartridges go in.

6) I do the pipe wrench thing to tighten the tube-cap-upper-strut-body-holder-wtf-things and put the bushings on the strut rods and tighten the new top nuts with an offset box and whatever fits the strut shaft.

7) At this point the strut shaft and bushing are just barely started in the seat so I align them with the groove and jack the body of the car up (and this pulls down on the shafts and bushings) while I guide them in and tap a bit with a rubber hammer and prybar to keep them moving straight and not pull too much on the strut cartridges.

8) Once they're seated I put the caps on and twist some new wire around the bottom of the bellows and pop the wheels on, finish my beer and put the car back down.

Some excess oil will usually ooze out the top of the tube-cap-upper-strut-body-holder-wtf-things too and provide some nice rustproofing to the spindle assembly.

I started doing it this way long before I knew there were actual specific tools and it's fast enough I just don't care to change it.

Aside from that, if everything goes as planned I'll have second Gen everything up front soon so no more polish cannon strut cartridge tube mount systems.

Edited February 26, 2017 by Imp558

[pitzel]

Unless you're in a completely rust-free, salt-free area, those spring seat plates, particularly the lower ones, need to be inspected and/or replaced as they accumulate water and will rust over time, eventually to failure under the pressure of the spring and the weight of the car.  One of mine let go on the highway last year in the middle of Northern Montana.  Wasn't fun at all and ended up costing $1000 including the tow job, etc.  The assembly also includes a bearing which can go bad, making lots of noise when you steer the car.