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Posted

Hello all! Just joined this lovely forum about 2 minutes ago! Im looking for some suggestions as to what a knocking sound from my front passenger side is. I drive a 1994 Buick Regal Limited. I have a video linked below with the sound. I have felt around while a friend pushed on the car and I can't seem to pinpoint it. It feels strongest on the strut but still not what I'd expect from how loud the sound is.

 

Heres the link ---   

 

My struts where bad many months ago so its a good possibility thats it, so I just ordered new Monroe cartridges and the tools i need, but I'm only like 50% sure that will solve it, any ideas?? Thank you!!

Posted

Also when I'm driving at low speeds it rattles, and doesn't do much when i'm accelerating and slowing down. Also it doesn't change much when I'm turning. Thanks again!

Posted (edited)

Sounds more like a harmonic balancer coming apart. Is this a 3800 ?

Edited by Padgett
Posted

My harmonic balancer sounded like a coffee can with marbles inside, even at idle.

 

Watch the video Padgett, no engine.

Posted

Sorry thought it was idling. If not my thought its the CV joint. Normally worse when driving in tight circles at full lock.

Posted

That sounds further inboard like a swaybar bushing or something. It's got a bit of a creak too.

Posted

Thanks for the quick replies!

 

Sorry thought it was idling. If not my thought its the CV joint. Normally worse when driving in tight circles at full lock.

Haven't tried driving in tight circles at full lock yet, I will try that before I leave work today!

 

That sounds further inboard like a swaybar bushing or something. It's got a bit of a creak too.

I grabbed the sway bar with my hand while a friend moved the car, and I felt the creak coming from that but no knock vibration whatsoever, so I don't think its coming from the sway bar

 

Also just noticed this morning it doesn't seem to be effected by acceleration and braking, only at certain speeds and bumps in the road.

Posted

The creak could be a bushing, the clank might be unrelated.

Since the clank is quite positive and pronounced, maybe traceable with a wand stethoscope? 

Posted

That is really pronounced. I was going to suggest lower ball joint but I don't think that ever gets that bad. It just rips off at that point. It's like you have a completely missing LCA bushing on the other side. Are you sure the noise is from the viewed side?

 

One isolation trick may be to disconnect the sway bar from one side.

Posted

The sound is too tinny (high frequency) for a drive shaft, IMO,

and sounds immediate, external, not muffled by a boot, etc.

 

Like something which is fastened loosely.

Posted

Sounds kind of like a bad strut bearing plate.

Posted

SOLVED!!! Sorry for no reply but it was just the large nut that holds the strut cartridge in place.... This one

 

 

Was completely loose! Thanks for all the help!

  • Like 1
Posted

SOLVED!!! Sorry for no reply but it was just the large nut that holds the strut cartridge in place.... This one

 

 

 

Was completely loose! Thanks for all the help!

Good work reporting back. Glad you figured it out.

Posted

make sure you use the right tool to tighten that nut down or it will just back out again

Posted

Autozone had the proper tool for rent for free when I did mine... They give you 30 days too.

Posted

Autozone had the proper tool for rent for free when I did mine... They give you 30 days too.

Do they still rent that? My local ones don't have the tool anymore.

 

Sent from my Moto G4 Plus using Tapatalk

Posted

I just use an offset box wrench and an allen key or pair of pliers depending on what the struts have on top.

Posted

I used an offset wrench and an allen / 6mm hex bit that i could attach to my breaker bar to get it tight. I tried to use an allen key made in china first and it just broke on both sides.

Posted

What about tightening the part that was actually your problem though? You said the retaining nut was loose, not the top nut.

 

I used something similar to this:

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4533-Stinger-W-Body-Strut/dp/B00063Y156

 

It was loaned out from autozone but I am not sure they still do that. I imagine one can get to it from underneath with a big enough pipe wrench though.

Posted

I used an offset wrench and an allen / 6mm hex bit that i could attach to my breaker bar to get it tight. I tried to use an allen key made in china first and it just broke on both sides.

??

 

the allen/offset socket is used to secure the top of the strut piston to the upper bumper assembly, 

 

the cartridge is held in place by the large male threaded retaining nut that is at the top of the strut opening. I take it that the retaining nut is what was causing your problem and you have secured THAT nut to the strut.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

AutoZone no longer carries the W-body strut tool. I bought the AmPro tool because I some people said the OTC one didn't always fit aftermarket struts well, but it's more expensive.

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