Electrical troubles. 00 Regal GS

[sampuppy1]

Alright. Few things. Some I have ideas on where to start. Others? Totally clueless. I understand I have to tackle troubleshooting myself (just wanted to put that out there) I'm. Just looking for......common fault points that would be reliable places to start investigating and increase my potential to find the problem quicker.

 

1. Back door windows in/op. No clicks, movement, nothing. Driver door controls, rear controls, no difference. Wires rubbed through? Motors junk? They didn't work when I got it. Front windows operate fine.

 

2. Sunroof opens and closes. In very small increments. Can hear a relay or something clicking in the back of the car somewhere. Can't quite pinpoint location. Relay is probably toast? Overheats and trips?

 

3. Rearview mirror domes constant on. About half power. I'm lost here. Tap the mirror just so and they turn off. Few bumps later they flick on. Sometimes they flicker and even turn off on their own. My only guess? Internal short to ground in the mirror body. The glass is fwonked. Maybe a solder joint in there got knocked loose when the glass got hit?

 

4. Air bag light. This one has got to be a rubbed wire somewhere. Light has been on consistently since I test drove it. Within the last week it went out. And came back. And went out. Intermittent now. Still on more than it is off. Might be a junk sensor too? Weather/humidity seems to have no effect on it.

 

5. Drivers seat heater is in/op. Common problems here? Fuses, relays, switches, element? Switch illuminates hi/low when engaged. No butt warmth though.

 

6. Cluster odometer is dim. Got lucky this one time and it worked properly. But it didn't before and hasn't since. Heard something about resistors being a common issue? I have a soldering iron.......

 

7. TPMS. How the F do I disable that crap. Soldering iron to remove the bulb? Pull a fuse?

 

8. I want to disable the steady burn turn DRL and the parked low beam on DRL functions. (I'll google it tomorrow and probably answer this one myself but what the heck)

 

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Tyler/T-Unit

[Nas Escobar]

1. Window motors are probably dead. Common GM problem. If you want to see if they will work, take the panel off and tap the motor. You may get the motor to engage that way. I had that issue on my Camaro. Tapped it, went up or down but then it would die again.

 

I'd also check the wiring with an ohm meter.

 

2. Sunroof motor. I'm having the same issue on my 94 Cavalier. Passenger's window motor starts and stops, moves in increments. Sometimes pushing the window up helps the motor run faster.

 

5. The element is known to go out. May have burned inside the seat cover.

 

6. Actually it's the solder points. The common issue is actually that the odometer is completely out and you can't see the mileage. I'd look up the fix.

 

8. http://www.lightsout.org/disable.html . Scroll down to 2000 Century. Same as a Regal.

[sampuppy1]

 

 

1. Window motors are probably dead. Common GM problem. If you want to see if they will work, take the panel off and tap the motor. You may get the motor to engage that way. I had that issue on my Camaro. Tapped it, went up or down but then it would die again.

 

I'd also check the wiring with an ohm meter.

 

2. Sunroof motor. I'm having the same issue on my 94 Cavalier. Passenger's window motor starts and stops, moves in increments. Sometimes pushing the window up helps the motor run faster.

 

5. The element is known to go out. May have burned inside the seat cover.

 

6. Actually it's the solder points. The common issue is actually that the odometer is completely out and you can't see the mileage. I'd look up the fix.

 

8. http://www.lightsout.org/disable.html . Scroll down to 2000 Century. Same as a Regal.

 

 

Time to pull door panels then it looks like for the rear windows. Can't get this God awful tint taken care of until I fix those.

 

I'm thinking there may be an overheat protection relay on the sunroof circuit and being old, it trips all the time.

 

Are the seat elements easy to access or replace?

 

 

I'll. Have to dig around for the cluster fix. Bet it's on here somewhere.

 

The lights out link is broken. Hits a 404 when I click.

 

 

 

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Tyler/T-Unit

[Nas Escobar]

Here's the cluster fix.

 

[Imp558]

Window master switch in the driver's door is the common denominator with the windows. You can test the window Motors directly with a 12-volt battery or a battery charger

[sampuppy1]

I do have a couple seadoo batteries.

 

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Tyler/T-Unit

[sampuppy1]

Anyone have a solution for the steady burn turn signal daytime. Running light?

 

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Tyler/T-Unit

[sampuppy1]

Alright. So I've found a solution.

 

Auto headlights are well known and easy to override. Install a resistor. I may or may not do this.

 

DRL. This one has been playing hard to get with me since I got it. I just happened upon a YouTube video. Guy was having troubles with turn signals malfunctioning. Bypassing a box under the dash made them work again. He said the only negative? Yup. No more DRL! So on the left of the brake pedal and up the side wall you'll find two boxes. A big black one. And a white one with two plugs in it. The larger of the two has four wires we will need. Light blue, light blue/white tracer, dark blue, dark blue/white tracer. There is two light blue wires. The larger wire you'll leave alone. Snip the other ones. Tie the solid colors to their respective white tracer brothers. This bypasses the relay(s) in the box.

 

Other options like flashing lights on lock, horn on lock, headlights and such on unlock are all able to be changed via directions in the owners manual.

 

I might make a thread on this if anyone is interested. Maybe an idea for a sticky? Opinions?

 

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Tyler/T-Unit