Changing an Oil Pan Gasket

[Grandprix1]

What are the steps to change an the Oil Pan Gasket on the 2002 NA 3.8 GP. Its leaking not alot but it is defintly leaking. from looking at it it looks like you just remove the bolts, take out the sensor, change the gasket and do the reverse. of course draining the oil first. My cousin who is an LS person says youd have to drop the craddle but like i said it looks like you can just drop the pan with nothing in its way.

Thanks

Grandprix1

[Psych0matt]

I don't think the subframe should need to be removed, but I'm not looking at it right now. Should be remove oil pan, replace gasket, reinstall

[Imp558]

I thought those had the big U bracket for the lower engine mount

[Bake82]

I thought those had the big U bracket for the lower engine mount

They do.

 

 

The subframe needs to be dropped or the engine needs to be lifted.

 

No other way to get the oil pan out.

 

 

 

 

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[Imp558]

It's a bitch getting to the U bracket bolts on the even side of the engine.

[Bake82]

It's a bitch getting to the U bracket bolts on the even side of the engine.

It sure is! It's why the subframe needs to be dealt with. Sucks for sure! Not a fun job!

[Imp558]

Anybody ever try to get those bolts through the wheel well?

[Grandprix1]

Thanks for that information guys. i was afraid that would have to be done. not really worth the leak as its not that bad. Is it possible to drop the pan just enough to swap the gasket with out lifting the engine or dropping the subframe? Ive got small enough hands that if thats possible i could squeeze them in there scrape the gasket off then put the new one back on.

[Imp558]

No, 3800s don't have a typical oil pan gasket for one. It's like a plastic windage tray with some rubber seals incorporated into it. Then there's the oil pickup that hangs down to the bottom of the pan, and if you were to use some sort of elven magic to make it work there wouldn't be any way to torque the oil pan down with a U bracket in the way.

 

If you can get to the U bracket bolts on the backside of the engine then you could lift the engine just a bit from up top and get the lower mount out without much difficulty, hell, a swingset and ratchet strap would be enough to bring just one side up.

 

Incidentally, if you do pull the lower engine mount it would be a good idea to expect to replace it, every one I've ever seen up close that was used was ready for replacement.

[Grandprix1]

Oh thats not wanted to hear. So what are my options then for stopping this leak? Like i said its not much but you can tell its leaking. I don't want to spend $300 to have it fixed by a dealer (only 18) and i don't want to have my buddy help me take the whole sub frame out. Im new to these cars still. I know how they work and there quirks but not much how to work on them.

[Imp558]

Not the whole subframe if you can reach in, if you can get to the U bracket bolts then the engine mount is easy. After that you just drop the pan, ect. But you have to support and raise the engine just a little to get the engine mount out, and of course if you start pulling U bracket bolts the engine needs to be suspended as well since the U bracket is the bracket for the engine mount. Do a good visual inspection and you'll understand, it's not rocket surgery.

[Grandprix1]

Thanks for the information Im558! I guess im going to have to talk to a few buddies of mine and see what we can do. GM could'nt make this any harder could they lol.

[Grandprix1]

theres no puddles on the driveway the reason I know or think its leaking is cause you can see it on the oil pan and on the bolts. could it be coming from somewhere above that? that would be a bitch to get to

[Galaxie500XL]

3800 and leaking valve covers go together like peanut butter and jelly...I'd look carefully there first for a leak.

[Imp558]

That's very true, if it's on the oil pan bolts this is probably an oil pan gasket this time though. Check the valve cover gaskets and see.

[95GS]

For what it's worth...

 

My 'engine' developed a leak at about 16 yrs. old. Didn't know if it was seals, gasket, upper engine, etc.

 

One day it started a slow pour onto the tarmac at a shopping center.

Back home I found the oil pan was rusted on a vertical surface (I forget which one) and perforated.

 

Didn't want to do a mid-winter pan change, so put the car on 4 jack stands, drained oil, cleaned up rusted area and 

surrounds with varsol. Very clean. (Edit: Probably sanded with emery cloth too)

 

Then applied Cold Weld epoxy (like JB Weld) on the good metal surrounding the rusted area.

To this area I affixed a piece of fiberglass screen (from a screen door) which was impregnated w/ cold weld epoxy.

I cured it with a heat gun because it was well below freezing.

 

This completely sealed the leak.

I changed the pan & gasket about 18-24 months later, simply because I'd bought new ones.

The repair never leaked. 

 

First make a careful visual inspection, good light, mirror. Torque pan bolts, etc.

[Imp558]

My L36 with it's factory gasket was fine in 2009 when I bought the car. I ran oil with seal conditioner (Castrol High Mileage) a few times in a row and after a year oil rained from the pan and both seals. On my L67 I used a Fel-pro gasket and nothing bot Valvoline in the white bottle and after 2 years my pan gasket had a slow leak.

[95GS]

 On my L67 I used a Fel-pro gasket and nothing bot Valvoline in the white bottle and after 2 years my pan gasket had a slow leak.

 

Doesn't seem fair - or make much sense...

[Imp558]

the U bracket made it unfair I would have liked to retorque them after a few months but that's impossible

[sampuppy1]

I'm fighting this right now on my s/c regal. Only I learned about the u-bracket after I got the pan loose. The gasket is shot. The rear valve cover is leaking as well. I could see it clearly from under the car. I've gotten the front two u-bracket bolts loose and one of the rear. Waiting on a cherry picker to lift the engine up. I also have a new pan since mine has a nice dent and the drain plug is garbage.

 

 

 

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[pitzel]

I replaced the oil pan gasket on my 3.1.  Had to buy the Harbor Freight engine support bar for around $80 with coupons.  And drop the subframe. 

 

I followed the procedure in the GM service manual to the letter.  It mostly went well. 

[sampuppy1]

Finally got the thing out. What a bear this task has been. I ended up having to put the car on blocks/ramps because Jack stands left the suspension at full droop and it was maxing out the CV shafts preventing me from getting enough lift on the engine/trans to remove the pan. I pulled the lower engine mount and the u-bracket and then used a board on the trans pan with a floor jack to lift everything enough to get the clearance I needed. Still had to do some VERY gentle convincing with a pry bar to pop the left side of the pan clear of the trans bell housing. I could have mangled it to get it out but it wouldn't do me any good for finding a way to get the new stuff in without destroying it. So being careful was key here. I'll be putting it back together tomorrow. I'll update all struggles I'm bound to encounter from install.

 

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[sampuppy1]

So I eventually did get the new pan in. It took a bit of playing with to get it in. Lots of trial and error I ended up wedging it close to where it had to be and then ever so gently tapped it past the hang up with a dead blow hammer. Also before putting the new pan on I'd take advantage of the opportunity to peek up into the underside of the block. I found coolant running into my crank case. So my oil pan job turned into lower intake gaskets.

 

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Tyler/T-Unit