Dread Rear Freeze Plug (3800)

[Padgett]

Anyone know of a tool I can buy or make to remove a rear freeze plug from a 3800 without pulling the motor or tranny ?

 

Can see it and can even get my hand on it just not sure how to get a punch on it.

 

Any suggestions ?

 

 

 

[95GS]

! A good challenge !

[Imp558]

Is that the starter in the way?

[Padgett]

Transmission - rear plug FWD 3800

[Imp558]

Oh I see it now, that looked like the starter which made me wonder why you didn't just pull the starter. Honestly the only easy fix I see there is that copper slop for the cooling system but I'd only do that if it were very high mileage and I was planning a new engine soon anyways.

 Plan B is to wait for Schurkey to see this thread, he has a tendency to point out easy fixes to what appears to be a bitch of a job, lol.

[Nas Escobar]

... and ask why you don't have an fsm for your car.

[Padgett]

I do. Says pull the engine. Suspect there is an easier way.

[Imp558]

Maybe fill it with diet coke and mentos and blow all the plugs out of it at once, lol.

[Padgett]

Think that belonged elsewhere.

[rich_e777]

I looked at mine today and came up blank, sorry man.

[Schurkey]

That job is NO fun.  Not only is it going to be a bitch to remove, but it's likely to be a bitch to reinstall.

 

As for the reinstallation, you might consider researching frost-plug heaters.  If you can buy an engine heater that fits into THAT core hole, it'll be a lot easier to install than a regular core plug.  If the heater does not go into that hole, well...good luck.  An engine core-plug heater can be installed "permanently", IF YOU FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS.  They're good for the life of the engine; and if they do leak, you just stuff a new O-ring onto it.  I've seen guys install "emergency" expanding rubber plugs into core holes.  They do not last indefinitely, and when they pop, you drive over all your coolant which may cause loss of traction, and then the engine overheats and seizes while you're bleeding out from running off the road into a tree.

 

There was a time I wanted to buy this set.  Eventually, I found the core plug removal tool (the bridge and coarse-threaded screw, bottom right in the photo) separately.  My remover is not an OTC unit, it's some knock-off from Taiwan--and I've never actually used it (yet).  I won't promise that they actually work.  That is, they'll work just fine on a perfectly-good core plug IF you have enough room behind the plug for the screw to thread into.  Lack of room behind the plug for the screw, and you're in trouble.  The bigger problem is that when a core plug rots out, I don't think it's going to have enough strength for the threads of the screw to hold onto--the plug will just fall apart leaving the outer ring still in place.

 

I have heard of--but never done, or even seen in person--folks taking an oxy-acetylene torch to the plug, heating it "red hot" and when it cools, it "just falls out".  Again, might work, might not.

 

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-Frost-Plug-Remover-Installer/dp/B000XSGKYO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479525010&sr=8-1&keywords=freeze+plug+remover

 

 

 

Have you bought a REAL service manual yet?  What, no bitching because I also recommend owning a REAL scan tool?

 

Pulling the engine is NOT a bad way to access the plugs.  Consider that if one plug is actually leaking, all the other plugs have been bathing in the same acidic coolant, and are probably hatefully corroded, they just haven't started drooling yet.  The preferred fix is to PULL THEM ALL and replace every one of them.  Some guys prefer brass plugs as they're less sensitive to corrosion damage.  While most any sealer will work (Do NOT use RTV silicone) I prefer Loctite 271 or epoxy.

[Nas Escobar]

Have you bought a REAL service manual yet?  What, no bitching because I also recommend owning a REAL scan tool?

 

 

Is that comment towards me?

 

I have the FSM for my Cutlass, just not sure where it went... I know it's somewhere in the house.

 

[Schurkey]

Is that comment towards me?

 

I have the FSM for my Cutlass, just not sure where it went... I know it's somewhere in the house.

 

Yes...just poking fun at you (and me).  I seem to remember you posting that you bought one.

 

Yes, my two standard answers involve buying the REAL manual, and a REAL scan tool.

[Padgett]

I have the factory service manuals for all of my cars, many in both paper and .pdf. For the GTP I have the three volume set and the arts and illustrations manual.

 

Just was asking if there is an easier way. Also have a full set of brass plugs and inserts (I always use brass).

 

BTW have used rubber expansion plugs before and never had an issue. Key is to use one that is the minimum size and not the maximum (for 1 1/2" plug use a 1 1/2 to 1 5/8 and not a 1 3/8-1 1/2)..

[Nas Escobar]

Yes...just poking fun at you (and me).  I seem to remember you posting that you bought one.

 

Yes, my two standard answers involve buying the REAL manual, and a REAL scan tool.

 

I never bought the scan tool. I've been trying to find something that can do OBD1 and OBD2 but also read the system itself. I always have some sort of ABS light issue in my car. My 94 Cutlass triggers sporadically, my 96 Infiniti is permanently on since I messed up the sensor and refuse to pay $200 for a new one, but was acting extremely strange beforehand and my 94 Cavalier triggers that light as soon as the wheels roll.

 

I manage to get by with TunerPro but that is no help when I need to run the tests that the FSM wants me to do (say for example on the EGR)

[RobertISaar]

 

I manage to get by with TunerPro but that is no help when I need to run the tests that the FSM wants me to do (say for example on the EGR)

 

depends. if mode4 commands are in the definition, you can control the solenoids with tunerpro, along with other fun stuff.

[Imp558]

The torch thing sounds like a fair option to try, expanding it and allowing it to contract should at least break it somwhat looser if it doesn't come right out.

I knew Schurkey would have an interesting idea.

He's right about installing it though, you may end up fabricating a driver on some sort of handle to install it, or perhaps a driver with a piece of threaded rod welded to it so you can put a coupling nut on it or something and jack it off of the body of the transmission and make use of having a solid steady object across from it but that seems pretty tight to get anything in there.