Dark Ride Posted November 16, 2016 Report Share Posted November 16, 2016 So I've got my wiring all figured out just curious how you guys have been mounting the battery in the trunk. What seems to work the best? Pictures if you have them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imp558 Posted November 16, 2016 Report Share Posted November 16, 2016 That took a while to find! Mine is on the 3rd and final page, there's a link to the box I used on the second page, grounding is a bitch since there's nothing really heave back there on our cars. http://www.w-body.com/topic/53018-anyone-here-running-a-battery-in-the-trunk/page-3?hl=%20battery%20%20relocation Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dark Ride Posted November 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2016 Thanks for the link, I probably won't spend that much on a box, but that gives me an idea of what folks are doing. I used the wires from a set of jumper cables and ran both positive and ground to the engine. Then I grounded the motor and chassis together and grounded the battery to the stud on the rear strut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imp558 Posted November 16, 2016 Report Share Posted November 16, 2016 there was some discussion in that thread about hydrogen being released into the passenger area. I personally didn't like that idea so I went with the box I could seal and then vented it through the floor. Psych0matt 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted November 16, 2016 Report Share Posted November 16, 2016 Mine isn't permanent yet, I have to remedy that in the spring. I grabbed the wiring from an 04ish? Bonneville, but it's about 1-2' shorter than it really shoul be. Haven't had any issues though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dark Ride Posted November 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2016 I don't think we have to worry about hydrogen gas if we are using a sealed or maintenance free battery unless it gets overcharged. At least that's what I've read. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imp558 Posted November 18, 2016 Report Share Posted November 18, 2016 Shouldn't have to, but I have 2 kids so it made more sense to me to know for sure what they were (not) breathing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dark Ride Posted November 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2016 Better safe than sorry, especially with kids. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted November 19, 2016 Report Share Posted November 19, 2016 Moving the battery to the trunk is an exercise in futility. There's a never-ending stream of complaints from people who have done just that; and they all center around failure to charge properly, or failure to power the starter motor properly. The solution--which is generally ridiculed--is to use adequate copper on both the + and the - side, instead of too-small copper on the + side, and a bunch of steel unibody spot-welds on the - side. Even when they're told how to check for voltage drop, they 1. Won't bother to perform the tests, and 2) Go right back to bitching about how "the starter doesn't work right any more", and "does anyone have a recommendation for different starters because the last thirty-two I installed have all been defective." Secondarily, there are problems with electrolyte spilling and corroding the living sh!t out of the floor and seat springs (so buy an Optima or similarly "sealed" or "AGM" battery) Fumes in the passenger compartment are the least of your worries. Every VW (original) Beetle and a heaping pile of other cars put the battery under the rear seat. Of course, they also have vent hose arrangements to duct the fumes outside the passenger compartment. Consider this: What happens when you hit something head-on, and fifty pounds of battery come flying forward, bouncing through the passenger compartment because you went cheap on the hold-down hardware, or anchored the hold-down to weak sheetmetal insufficient to retain the battery? Leaving the battery up front causes few issues, doesn't require re-wiring the vehicle, and is safer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nas Escobar Posted November 19, 2016 Report Share Posted November 19, 2016 What has Schurkey found to fix the washer bottle problem in a W? Legitimate question btw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted November 19, 2016 Report Share Posted November 19, 2016 What has Schurkey found to fix the washer bottle problem in a W? Legitimate question btw. I had to rob a washer motor/pump from my '93 to replace a failed washer motor/pump on the '92. If the '93 ever goes back on the road, I'll have to buy a washer motor/pump to replace the one I took. What washer bottle "problem" do you have? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nas Escobar Posted November 19, 2016 Report Share Posted November 19, 2016 I don't really have a washer problem, but it's well known that the washer bottle over the battery was the worst thing that GM did to these cars. I took it out on mine because I have an AGM battery in my Cutlass but I have thought of relocating the battery in the trunk since I wanted to run 2 amps in my car for the sound system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imp558 Posted November 19, 2016 Report Share Posted November 19, 2016 Dodge intrepid washer bottle, mine sits in the bumper side area and the fill is on a tube under the hood Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nas Escobar Posted November 19, 2016 Report Share Posted November 19, 2016 Dodge intrepid washer bottle, mine sits in the bumper side area and the fill is on a tube under the hood I've thought about that but does it fit without bothering the vacuum ball? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imp558 Posted November 19, 2016 Report Share Posted November 19, 2016 I think it's in the same spot. it would be easy to move anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted November 20, 2016 Report Share Posted November 20, 2016 I don't really have a washer problem, but it's well known that the washer bottle over the battery was the worst thing that GM did to these cars. Piston slap, shitty brake boosters, and cheap O-rings on the oil pump drive are each ten times worse than putting a formed-plastic washer bottle on top of a maintenance-free Delco battery. The battery can be charged or the vehicle jump-started using the accessory post. How often do you need to access the battery? Once every five years? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95GS Posted November 20, 2016 Report Share Posted November 20, 2016 I don't really have a washer problem, but it's well known that the washer bottle over the battery was the worst thing that GM did to these cars. I took it out on mine because I have an AGM battery in my Cutlass but I have thought of relocating the battery in the trunk since I wanted to run 2 amps in my car for the sound system. Speaking to a mechanic friend tonight who opined that the trailing arm body mount is a main reason these cars are no longer seen up here in the northeast salt belt. Probably a deal breaker for a lot of owners once the car is over 10 years old. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imp558 Posted November 20, 2016 Report Share Posted November 20, 2016 The trailing arm mount is under $100 at a weld shop here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nas Escobar Posted November 21, 2016 Report Share Posted November 21, 2016 Piston slap, shitty brake boosters, and cheap O-rings on the oil pump drive are each ten times worse than putting a formed-plastic washer bottle on top of a maintenance-free Delco battery. The battery can be charged or the vehicle jump-started using the accessory post. How often do you need to access the battery? Once every five years? You forgot the turn signal switch and the 4th drive gear (Galaxie500 knows what I'm talking about in the 94 and 95 cars where the trans will go into 3rd gear because of some pressure ring or something of the sort). I'd add the weatherstripping on the verts too since apparently, 95% of the remaining cars leak when it rains. As far as the battery, I usually end up taking it out at least once a year. I don't "change it" or "swap it" out but I end up using the AGM battery in another car, depending on the situation. The bottle won't fit over the AGM battery. It's longer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted November 21, 2016 Report Share Posted November 21, 2016 The bottle won't fit over the AGM battery. It's longer. What is the group size of the AGM battery you're using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95GS Posted November 23, 2016 Report Share Posted November 23, 2016 Speaking to a mechanic friend tonight who opined that the trailing arm body mount is a main reason these cars are no longer seen up here in the northeast salt belt. Probably a deal breaker for a lot of owners once the car is over 10 years old. The trailing arm mount is under $100 at a weld shop here Imp, I was encouraged when you earlier mentioned this - that's a good price, esp. when considering that it must be accurately placed. (If you know how they position/locate new mounts into corroded holes let me know - i.e. what's their reference point?...is the rear knuckle stable enough without the trailing arm fixed in place?) But my guess is that most mechanics will not do this work (it's too custom, not plug & play), or they're simply not welders, and that not every weld shop would take on this job, or do it right. So you might be unusually well-placed to 1) understand the problem & explain it, and 2) have a skilled welder who has seen this before and isn't groping in the dark. Likely, the average w-body owner when faced with this problem on a 10 to 20 year old car will be told "the frame is rotten, a minimum of xxx hundred when we send it out for welding, no guarantees for the rest of the frame...etc." As you know, any car will run indefinitely with the right combination of knowledge, ability, desire, cash. The average owner may lack the first three and so revert to the bank for a replacement vehicle. That seems to be the western way. Not DIY like many members here. Nas Escobar 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted November 23, 2016 Report Share Posted November 23, 2016 knowledge, ability, desire, cash. Can I borrow that? I've been using "Time, Money, Effort, and Enthusiasm" since forever; and yours would be more applicable sometimes. Imp558 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imp558 Posted November 24, 2016 Report Share Posted November 24, 2016 I've been using Time, Effort and Enthusiasm for a long time anyways. If I had any Money I wouldn't be on a W-Body furum, lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95GS Posted November 24, 2016 Report Share Posted November 24, 2016 Can I borrow that? I've been using "Time, Money, Effort, and Enthusiasm" since forever; and yours would be more applicable sometimes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.