Startup Precautions

[95GS]

After a much prolonged repair, I'll be starting my Regal for the first time in 4 months. (3.8 Series ll)

I see the oil is up about half an inch on the dipstick. 

 

Are there any precautions I should take after such a long idle period?

[Padgett]

Charge the battery.

[95GS]

That's in progress, but I need to replace it. 

Can one drive 40 minutes highway with a dead cell (10.5-11.0 volts) without causing system damage?

[Imp558]

I don't know that it'll run at that low voltage

[94 olds vert]

Depending on where the car was stored, check for nests in the air filter. Im serious.

[95GS]

Thanks for the input.

[Imp558]

My L67 sat for 2 years, I turned it over by hand a few times before I started it.

[ron350]

When my 96 Regal was apart for a long time i was told to pull the Ignition Relay and the Fuel Pump relay. Then spin the motor over a few times to build oil pressure before reinstalling the relays.

[95GS]

Imp, I like the manual cranking suggestion for a very long storage period. 

 

Pulling the ignition & fuel pump relays makes good sense.

On your 96, are these under the hood on a fender? Same box or different locations?

Thanks, my Haynes is some hours away.

[Padgett]

Heck, I fill the oil filter every time I change the oil.

 

If you can get the engine to start, you can run it for as long as it lasts.

 

A year ago I helped a friend drive a '76 GMC Motor Home with an Olds 455 from Orlando to Rogers, Ark. Before Lake City, the oddball alternator failed. So for three days we would stop at dark, Charge the battery overnight on a 15A charger, drive all day. When the voltage dropped under 11v we had to manually bridge the solenoid for it to start.

 

Was made a bit more difficult that it got 7-8 mpg and had a 10 gallon tank

['93RegalGS3800]

Heck, I fill the oil filter every time I change the oil.

 

Wait...doing this is a thing? I never would have figured to do this. I always went with the oil working it's way through the system would be good enough.

 

Only problem is not spilling any while trying to maneuver one while installing on a 3800 gen 1 W. I'm having to reach in the passengers wheel well and fight a wiring harness to install the oil filter.

[Padgett]

You must have the slanted oil filter. My 3800 TranSport had that & could only prefill about 3/4. On the Reattas it is a straight up shot.

 

Not able to prefill on all cars, just the ones I can, I do.

[ron350]

The relays are under the hood up against the passenger side fender.

[Schurkey]

Pulling relays before cranking, hand-cranking, all that crap may make you feel better but it doesn't do anything useful for the engine.  It's just more crank revolutions before the engine starts.

 

Replace the defective battery, otherwise you risk overheating the alternator as it tries to achieve system regulated voltage.

 

Four months?  My hobby cars sit for six or eight months at a time.  Get in, start it up, drive away.  I've seen vehicles that have been parked for years--charge battery, check the oil, fill float bowl of carburetor, set choke...let 'er rip.  Sometimes with the years-old gasoline.  (Depends on the security of the fuel cap.  No water...no problem, if you're driving easy and the vehicle has fairly low compression.)

[mfewtrail]

Wait...doing this is a thing? I never would have figured to do this. I always went with the oil working it's way through the system would be good enough.

 

Only problem is not spilling any while trying to maneuver one while installing on a 3800 gen 1 W. I'm having to reach in the passengers wheel well and fight a wiring harness to install the oil filter.

 

It's a thing, but not practical on all vehicles. I partially fill the 3800 Series I filter before installation. I'm able to get the filter into place without tilting it far enough to spill anything when it's say 1/2 full. Any more than that and the angle it sits on the engine means you're going to waste some oil. The next time I change the oil on that car I'll note the path I take to get the filter in and out for you. It may save you some trouble if you're doing it differently. I know I can accomplish it multiple ways. I am using the standard length filters by the way. I ran the longer filters for years on there and they are more difficult to get into place. I decided they weren't worth the hassle. Since you mentioned the wiring harness I assume those to be the ones you're using.

[Padgett]

Talking about using a PF52 instead of a PF47 ? Long time ago I looked into that and hung down below the frame on the Reattas & AFAIR used the same filter inside so just a longer can. Was originally developed as a cheap way to increase the oil capacity on a 84 Fiero (3 qts originally, 4 quarts after the recall. They also remarked the dipstick).

[Imp558]

Schurkey made the same point I was trying to, just start it. My engine sat for years and I just rotated it a couple times, had it been months I wouldn't have bothered.

[Padgett]

Has been quite a bit of study on the subject and this is one authority. The Judge is not a problem since have to crank a while just to get gas after sitting & can see the oil pressure come up when cranking. Others vary but GM cars with FI have a prime shot on key-on and tend to start instantly unless disabled (and a switch for the FP relay is also an anti-theft helper).

[White93z34]

Its only been 4 months, charge the battery and turn the key.

['93RegalGS3800]

It's a thing, but not practical on all vehicles. I partially fill the 3800 Series I filter before installation. I'm able to get the filter into place without tilting it far enough to spill anything when it's say 1/2 full. Any more than that and the angle it sits on the engine means you're going to waste some oil. The next time I change the oil on that car I'll note the path I take to get the filter in and out for you. It may save you some trouble if you're doing it differently. I know I can accomplish it multiple ways. I am using the standard length filters by the way. I ran the longer filters for years on there and they are more difficult to get into place. I decided they weren't worth the hassle. Since you mentioned the wiring harness I assume those to be the ones you're using.

 

I think I'm using the standard size oil filter. I can get it past the harness and all to get it on the engine. I've only done it once and was not particularly thrilled with the placement of it. I'm not aware if there are any kits to relocate it because if there were I would look into it.

 

I've heard of taking the PS pump loose and taking it out of the top but that would require me to also remove the coolant tank and engine belt. It sounds like more crap to remove just to do something that should be so simple.

[Padgett]

But the alternator is a five minute job.

 

Think that tilted 3800 oil filter came in 1991 (L), before that © it was straight up with no obstructions.

['93RegalGS3800]

But the alternator is a five minute job.

 

Think that tilted 3800 oil filter came in 1991 (L), before that © it was straight up with no obstructions.

 

I guess I should have figured that the design was changed just to screw with us. I always thought it was the way it was because FWD weirdness.

[95GS]

Leave for a day, answers flood in!

Good info all, thanks Ron for the photo.

 

Crank and drive will no doubt work.

I'd not heard of filling the filter, but see the logic.

Do these tweaks & primps make a difference? Maybe they're measureable one-percenters which add up over time.

Remnant oil in the crank & cam journals might suffice for lube carry over,

so fresh gas on un-lubed cylinder walls would be the weakest point (think I read a study on this long ago..).

Prudent attention to detail is an overall asset in car maintenance and in life.

While it's possible to obsess compulsively, most people tend not to care & would not manage well with a 20 y.o. car.

 

Yes, the Buick oil filter (angled) is difficult to access.

My normal concern upon installation is getting grunge in the new filter or on the oiled gasket.

I drain the oil when the engine is hot, let it drip for several hours while I do something else.

Use the slope of the property to angle towards the drain hole, both front wheels driven up on wooden boards (3-4" elevation), rear wheels chocked, steering wheel cranked hard left to give me filter access. No jacking.

[Padgett]

Only problem I had with the angled filter was the wiring harness you have to move out of the way. Of course I use a cap with a socket drive in the top to remove them, no place to use a strap. Had wondered if they planned to eliminate the PF47 and replace it with a PF52 which would stick out in the vertical position. OTOH wasn't that about when they began putting 3800s in F-bodies. Might have been a drag link or tie rod issue.

[mfewtrail]

Talking about using a PF52 instead of a PF47 ? Long time ago I looked into that and hung down below the frame on the Reattas & AFAIR used the same filter inside so just a longer can. Was originally developed as a cheap way to increase the oil capacity on a 84 Fiero (3 qts originally, 4 quarts after the recall. They also remarked the dipstick).

 

Yeah, PF52 instead of PF47. The 52's have more filter material inside, it's not just a longer canister. I've cut a few of them open and several of their equivalents by brands other than AC Delco.  I use plier style oil filter wrenches on the Series I's if I even need an oil filter wrench.

 

 

 

As for the actual subject of this topic: Get a fresh or known good battery and fire it up. 4 months is nothing as the others stated.

Edited November 12, 2016 by mfewtrail