95GS Posted October 24, 2016 Report Share Posted October 24, 2016 The web claims there are only 4 car battery makers for N. America, each with a range of offerings. It's quite plausible knowing the vast changes due to globalization. My last one from Canadian Tire was the best they had for a 95 Buick...3 yr. guarantee. It's toast now, not quite 4yrs. old. It's a tight fit, under the w/w fluid reservoir, so selection is limited. What are the best options? Walmart (Eveready), Costco, Interstate? Are AC Delco still reliable? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake91 Posted October 24, 2016 Report Share Posted October 24, 2016 Im a fan of interstate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imp558 Posted October 24, 2016 Report Share Posted October 24, 2016 Walmart will pro-rate if one of theirs fails and knock the value of the remaining warranty period off another battery. I did it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted October 24, 2016 Report Share Posted October 24, 2016 I buy Walmart batteries because they are cheap. WAY cheaper. I haven't found them to be the longest lasting batteries, usually 3-yrs, but I usually put them in W-bodies which may have something to do with it - sometimes the W-bodies would break and it'd take me a couple weeks to get all the parts to fix them and occasionally the battery would die from non-use which is really bad for them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95GS Posted October 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2016 Can. Tire also prorates their batteries after the free replacement warranty expires, so I'm eligible for that. It's an effective way to ensure customer loyalty, not sure how the economics works. It could be a type of loss leader. Not sure I want another ok battery even with paper assurance. That's the business model today, but not so good in a blizzard far from home. It seems standard batteries used to last a bit longer. Long ago Can. Tire sold a battery with a lifetime warranty. (It outlasted my car). IIRC a family member sold a 14 yr. old Olds with the original 2 batteries (5.7 Diesel) in full running form. I'll check out Walmart & Costco. Interstate has 2 models: 195.00 & 210.00 Canadian. ouch. GM AC Delco has two as well. Silver 148.00, Gold 162.00 CDN. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_e777 Posted October 25, 2016 Report Share Posted October 25, 2016 I use only duralast golds for the warrantee yet never had one go out in the 5 years I use them, even had a 2 year Duralast red and it lasted nearly 4 years. When you disconnect your battery take a wire brush to both the harness and the terminal on the new battery then apply a bit of dielectric grease before connecting it. While you are at it get something to insulate it from the engine bay, even if its cardboard and duct tape. The prorate warranty is there to get you back into the store to buy MOAR STUF! It probably costs the battery company $25-$30 to manufacture a battery. The rest is mark up and environmental costs passed on to you , the consumer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted October 25, 2016 Report Share Posted October 25, 2016 Exide = Junk. Nothing new there, Exide has been junk for decades. Johnson Controls = Not bad. I hear good things about East Penn (Deka). Never owned one. I used to like Interstate, which is made by Johnson Controls. I've now got five of 'em in my garage that won't hold a charge. They're years old, but most of them are not so old that they should be crapped-out yet. I have an ancient Optima. This one from the days of USA production. I also have a newer pair, from Mexico. One of the new ones has been in service about six months, the other is still in the box. Optima is also Johnson Controls. Be careful, there's a shitload of batteries coming from China, including some sold by AC-Delco. I wouldn't walk across the street for one if they were giving them away for free. It may be that the Chinese Delcos are small-equipment batteries, not automotive. I wouldn't put money on it, however. For the record, you're insane to install a battery and not fully-test the starting/charging power team. Starter draw, charging volts and amperage, parasitic drain, maybe even voltage drop through the harness if you've had problems or a history of short battery life. rich_e777 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ManicMechanic Posted October 25, 2016 Report Share Posted October 25, 2016 Optima's quality has been going steadily down hill. Last two i had lasted about a year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95GS Posted October 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2016 While you are at it get something to insulate it from the engine bay, even if its cardboard and duct tape. Currently I've got a battery blanket for winter, but never thought of insulation to keep cool. In that case, the battery blanket should be open on the outboard side for summer. Good idea. ...I've not seen Duralast in Canada... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95GS Posted October 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2016 Be careful, there's a shitload of batteries coming from China, including some sold by AC-Delco. I wouldn't walk across the street for one if they were giving them away for free. It may be that the Chinese Delcos are small-equipment batteries, not automotive. I wouldn't put money on it, however. Yes, I was wondering about the Chinese influence on the battery market. Almost every other product line is made in China these days. I'll check for country of origin. If that counts for much. For the record, you're insane to install a battery and not fully-test the starting/charging power team. Starter draw, charging volts and amperage, parasitic drain, maybe even voltage drop through the harness if you've had problems or a history of short battery life. That's a good reminder. The battery's been on a long slow decline - fine in summer, but used a block heater and batt. blanket last winter as preventative insurance - I knew it was due for a change this fall, and now, siting idle, the specific gravity is low on all cells/won't hold a charge. I did change the alternator 3 or 4 times last year, eventually abandoning NAPA alternators. (Warrantees are pointless when the car croaks away from home - just give me a good unit with a normal lifespan). Charging voltage was good. As Rich said, these batteries are cheap. Mine could be Chinese made - I will check upon removal. How does one test starter draw? I presume you mean current (amps). Charging amperage would also require a better ammeter than my little multimeter. Once the alternator saga was resolved, there weren't any obvious issues. BTW, I've heard others recommend heavier gauge ground and starter cables than stock. Is there any merit to this if things are working ok? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carkhz316 Posted October 25, 2016 Report Share Posted October 25, 2016 Exide = Junk. Nothing new there, Exide has been junk for decades. Johnson Controls = Not bad. I hear good things about East Penn (Deka). Never owned one. I used to like Interstate, which is made by Johnson Controls. I've now got five of 'em in my garage that won't hold a charge. They're years old, but most of them are not so old that they should be crapped-out yet. I have an ancient Optima. This one from the days of USA production. I also have a newer pair, from Mexico. One of the new ones has been in service about six months, the other is still in the box. Optima is also Johnson Controls. Be careful, there's a shitload of batteries coming from China, including some sold by AC-Delco. I wouldn't walk across the street for one if they were giving them away for free. It may be that the Chinese Delcos are small-equipment batteries, not automotive. I wouldn't put money on it, however. For the record, you're insane to install a battery and not fully-test the starting/charging power team. Starter draw, charging volts and amperage, parasitic drain, maybe even voltage drop through the harness if you've had problems or a history of short battery life. Good info Schurkey. Our local Auto Value parts store carries Deka, and most anyone I've talked to seem to have really good luck with them, myself included. I put one of their AGM's in my '03 Silverado a few years before I sold it and it never missed a beat. I also have an AGM in my ATV for the last year and half. When the time comes to replace the one in my sled or other cars, I'll probably use them too. The prices on the regular sealed lead-acid batteries are on par with the local Wal-mart's (N)everstart batteries, with the same 3 year free replacement, so there is no advantage to the Neverstarts for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted October 25, 2016 Report Share Posted October 25, 2016 How does one test starter draw? I presume you mean current (amps). Charging amperage would also require a better ammeter than my little multimeter. This is not the best way, but the price is right. It will take two people--one to hold and read the inductive ammeter, one to crank the engine and work the gas pedal. Place meter on either of the heavy battery cables, using the "starter" position of the meter. Crank the engine with the fuel injectors disabled and all accessories turned off. When the meter steadies as the engine cranks, you have your starter draw, along with a minimal amount of ignition current. Once you've cranked for awhile, reenergize the injectors, place meter on alternator output wire using the alternator position on the meter. Start the engine. Rev engine to ~2000--2500 rpm, read meter as alternator re-charges battery that's been partially-drained by the cranking you've just completed. Can't get to the alternator or starter wiring? Yup, pain in the ass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfewtrail Posted October 25, 2016 Report Share Posted October 25, 2016 I've had decent luck w/ Autocraft from Advance Auto. Buy with the coupons(order online) and they're typically the cheapest you can get for a 2 or 3 year warrantied battery. The last one that failed on me was right near the 6 year mark in a w-body. I got about the same lifespan out of Duralast batteries from autozone in my W's. I have had some marginal results from various Duralast Gold batteries in other vehicles though. I believe both Autocraft and Duralast at least *used* to be made by Johnson Controls. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted October 25, 2016 Report Share Posted October 25, 2016 I quit buying from WalMart, Had too many failures after very short times. I've bought from a mess of places recently, NAPA, Sam's Club - Duracell branded, Some random battery that came in my Camaro from a place called Blains Farm and Fleet. and a AC Delco The optima I had I got probably 5-6 years out of, good but not good enough to drop the money on another. The AC Delco in my STS lasted some 6 years, and I put another ACD in it, only because the dealer had the best price on Group 79s - but I think its more because it lives under the back seat then anything else. I'll say I'm most impressed with the low end NAPA battery in my TGP its probably 5-6 years old now and has survived sitting totally flat for 8-10 months. Truth be told I only expect 4 or so years from a battery these days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95GS Posted October 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2016 This is not the best way, but the price is right. It will take two people--one to hold and read the inductive ammeter, one to crank the engine and work the gas pedal. Place meter on either of the heavy battery cables, using the "starter" position of the meter. Crank the engine with the fuel injectors disabled and all accessories turned off. When the meter steadies as the engine cranks, you have your starter draw, along with a minimal amount of ignition current. Once you've cranked for awhile, reenergize the injectors, place meter on alternator output wire using the alternator position on the meter. Start the engine. Rev engine to ~2000--2500 rpm, read meter as alternator re-charges battery that's been partially-drained by the cranking you've just completed. Can't get to the alternator or starter wiring? Yup, pain in the ass. Good info Schurkey. Disabling the injectors - is that by pulling a fuse? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95GS Posted October 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2016 IIRC a family member sold a 14 yr. old Olds with the original 2 batteries (5.7 Diesel) in full running form. As it turns out, I recalled INCORRECTLY....the aforementioned original batteries lasted somewhere from 7 to 10 years, and required occasional charging at the end of their lives. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digitaloutsider Posted November 1, 2016 Report Share Posted November 1, 2016 Deka makes the only batteries worth a flying fuck anymore. Johnson Controls are EXTREMELY hit or miss and every JC AGM i've had has been miserable dog shit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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