02 GP Performance Shift

[White93z34]

His issue is he has a L67 and 4t60. I put the same tune I used on my old Bonneville on a spare PCM for him, which should at least be a ok starting point.

[GOT2B GM]

Yes, Chris got me rolling with his old bonnevile tune paired with calibrations for the taller lesabre gearing. It's just the fine tuning for the 3.5 or 3.6 pulley that may need some attention once it's together. Will be doing the top swap the week before easter , with SD headers, ZZP MPS starting with a 3.6, AL104s and 180 stat.

 

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[Imp558]

That service number PCM that is in Amy is the one that I have a native tune for the 4t60 with the l67. The 1996 SSEI is what I pulled it out of.

[Grandprix1]

Looks like I will be doing my rewire on Monday. Supposed to be somewhat warm. I'll go and buy a nice big roll of black wire and solder all the connections

 

 

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[White93z34]

That service number PCM that is in Amy is the one that I have a native tune for the 4t60 with the l67. The 1996 SSEI is what I pulled it out of.

 

1996 Bins won't work with a 97' file size changed, also the fuel gauge won't work.

 

But really I'm pretty well derailing this as it is

[Imp558]

1996 Bins won't work with a 97' file size changed, also the fuel gauge won't work.

 

But really I'm pretty well derailing this as it is

Wow, I didn't notice the fuel gauge PWM change, a 1997 SSEI or PAU should be used then.

 

 

 

Okay, I took some pictures today at work to help with this project and hopefully others will find this when they need to add pins to a PCM. I know you already have this part underway but it's still useful information.

 

There's 2 different types of plugs used for this type of PCM, if your dress covers have the barbs on the outside of the plug body use a pick or small screwdriver to gently lift them up and remove the dress cover.

 

If your dress covers have the barbs into slots on the back of the plug body use a pair of small pliers to gently unhook them by influencing them away from the outside of the plug body since the barbs are facing outward.

You can "unhook" the 4 barbs on the outside corners this way, be careful not to break the dress cover.

If the slots in the plug are heavily oxidized use a small pick to scrape the oxidization from the slot to get enough clearance for the barb to come out.

 

 

Use a pick or tiny screwdriver to unhook the blind barb in the center and the exposed one and the dress cover should come right off.

 

 

If it's difficult to make out the numbers next to the pins I use a marker to color the area and then wipe the tops of the numbers with my finger to make them easier to read.

 

Next we need to remove the TPA that covers the business end of the pins, there's little white fingers on either end that you can gently push in and it will come off, your TPA is clear for this project but the little fingers are easier to see with this red TPA.

 

 

There's a rubber membrane between the parts of the plug, if there was never a pin in that hole it will need to be punctured with a pick or tiny screwdriver. (We're looking at pin 30 in this picture and that's what I'm inserting but that in no way means 30 is the correct pin for this application, just an example.)

 

 

Hold the pin firmly and push it from the back (they can go from the front too but it's not as easy) until it's seated, at some point you'll be pushing it by the wire the last little bit.

 

 

Make sure your pin is even with the rest of them and re-install the TPA:

 

This last picture shows the diagram to run the switch and indicator, you may have to get creative with the indicator in the vehicle because it shouldn't have a pin in that location on your cluster, there's no reason you can't run a 12V LED somewhere else or extract a pin from a juju car (use of the term "juju" copyright Psych0matt 2017). It's arguable whether the indicator is necessary, I personally prefer not to have one taking the focus from my illuminated ABS light that's the star of my instrument cluster.

 

Edited March 16, 2017 by Imp558

[Grandprix1]

Wow, I didn't notice the fuel gauge PWM change, a 1997 SSEI or PAU should be used then.

 

 

 

Okay, I took some pictures today at work to help with this project and hopefully others will find this when they need to add pins to a PCM. I know you already have this part underway but it's still useful information.

 

There's 2 different types of plugs used for this type of PCM, if your dress covers have the barbs on the outside of the plug body use a pick or small screwdriver to gently lift them up and remove the dress cover.

1.jpg

 

If your dress covers have the barbs into slots on the back of the plug body use a pair of small pliers to gently unhook them by influencing them away from the outside of the plug body since the barbs are facing outward.

You can "unhook" the 4 barbs on the outside corners this way, be careful not to break the dress cover.

If the slots in the plug are heavily oxidized use a small pick to scrape the oxidization from the slot to get enough clearance for the barb to come out.

2.jpg

 

3.jpg

 

Use a pick or tiny screwdriver to unhook the blind barb in the center and the exposed one and the dress cover should come right off.

4.jpg

 

5.jpg

 

If it's difficult to make out the numbers next to the pins I use a marker to color the area and then wipe the tops of the numbers with my finger to make them easier to read.

6.jpg

 

Next we need to remove the TPA that covers the business end of the pins, there's little white fingers on either end that you can gently push in and it will come off, your TPA is clear for this project but the little fingers are easier to see with this red TPA.

7.jpg

 

8.jpg

 

There's a rubber membrane between the parts of the plug, if there was never a pin in that hole it will need to be punctured with a pick or tiny screwdriver. (We're looking at pin 30 in this picture and that's what I'm inserting but that in no way means 30 is the correct pin for this application, just an example.)

9.jpg

 

10.jpg

 

Hold the pin firmly and push it from the back (they can go from the front too but it's not as easy) until it's seated, at some point you'll be pushing it by the wire the last little bit.

11.jpg

 

12.jpg

 

Make sure your pin is even with the rest of them and re-install the TPA:

13.jpg

14.jpg

 

This last picture shows the diagram to run the switch and indicator, you may have to get creative with the indicator in the vehicle because it shouldn't have a pin in that location on your cluster, there's no reason you can't run a 12V LED somewhere else or extract a pin from a juju car (use of the term "juju" copyright Psych0matt 2017). It's arguable whether the indicator is necessary, I personally prefer not to have one taking the focus from my illuminated ABS light that's the star of my instrument cluster.

 

15.jpg

 

Thanks for those! I will need them again when I put a new pin in the PCM. I don't think I got mine crimped correctly. do u happen to have a Diagram of how the DIC works? I tired wiring up a light bulb for the perf shift light behind the gauge cluster but it wouldn't work so id like to see how the DIC is working to see these things? If its pulling off a data stream since the PCM is now tuned to see Performance shift it should turn the DIC indicator on when that pin is grounded out. I'm rewiring on Monday so I will update back what happens and if my shift tables change now. If they don't I'm going to email ZZP just to verify that it was tuned for it.

 

 

[Imp558]

That wire is all there is for an indicator, the DIC is data stream, which is already run. I would insert that pin and run it right to ground as I said earlier to make sure it's even working in the cal.

[Grandprix1]

That wire is all there is for an indicator, the DIC is data stream, which is already run. I would insert that pin and run it right to ground as I said earlier to make sure it's even working in the cal.

Yeah I was going to try that out when I do the rewire. Should I just tape the bare end of the wire onto the body and go for a quick drive? And if it works continue wiring if it doesn't then send back to ZZP?

[Imp558]

Bare metal, not a painted surface, if you can put it with an existing ground and twist it on that would be a sure thing.

[Grandprix1]

Bare metal, not a painted surface, if you can put it with an existing ground and twist it on that would be a sure thing.

Ok I can see if I can find one. When I was looking in the engine bay or even the interior for an existing ground when I first started this I couldn't find one in the engine bay nor the interior. I'm guessing they are hidden deep inside them.

[digitaloutsider]

There's literally a ground on the transmission right next to the where the PCM sits, look next to the AC accumulator. 

[Grandprix1]

There's literally a ground on the transmission right next to the where the PCM sits, look next to the AC accumulator.

I will look again when i get home. If your talking on that stud where the wire loom connects there isn't one there from what I can remember. But I will look again when I get home

 

 

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[digitaloutsider]

It's one of the bolts on the bellhousing.  It has a stud and a nut.  There should already be wires grounded there.

[Imp558]

Any stud or bolt that goes to the main body of the vehicle or the engine just loosen it scrape up the paint underneath if there is some until you get clean metal and use it as a ground

[Grandprix1]

Any stud or bolt that goes to the main body of the vehicle or the engine just loosen it scrape up the paint underneath if there is some until you get clean metal and use it as a ground

Ok I'm going to see if I can find the grounds that go to the transmission bell housing and see if it works. I get home at 3 and have to be at work at 4 so hopefully I can check it quickly

[Grandprix1]

Ok so for everyone's sake of mind imp558 suggestion worked. My wiring is messed up so I will fix that Monday. I grounded out that pin directly to the transmission and it changed into performance shift. DIC proves it. Thanks everyone for your help and patience for the "useless feature". It's taken me a year to figure this out and make it work. I'll post back Monday when the switch is wired in and I actually test it out.

[Imp558]

Ok so for everyone's sake of mind imp558 suggestion worked. My wiring is messed up so I will fix that Monday. I grounded out that pin directly to the transmission and it changed into performance shift. DIC proves it. Thanks everyone for your help and patience for the "useless feature". It's taken me a year to figure this out and make it work. I'll post back Monday when the switch is wired in and I actually test it out.

'Atta boy!

[digitaloutsider]

Just leave it hardwired. There's no reason to turn it off anyway.

[Grandprix1]

Just fixed wiring and WOW it works. It down shifts 2 gears when u get on it and if the roads are wet forget traction. Hopefully someone finds this thread useful if they ever want to set this up

 

 

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[Imp558]

And with the indicator on the DIC there's no need to worry about an indicator light. That worked out well.

[jaredbonner1]

Would it be the same steps for an 01 gtp?

 

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[Imp558]

Would it be the same steps for an 01 gtp?

 

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Welcome, yes. Why don't you post a thread in the new member area with some pics of the car?

[Grandprix1]

Would it be the same steps for an 01 gtp?

 

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Yes it should. Look for the shift knob in your local junkyard so you don't have to worry about placing a switch anywhere. It has a button on the side. All the other information is here in the thread. Make sure you solder all the wires together. Just makes everything easier

 

 

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[jaredbonner1]

With the stock PCM it's nothing but a light though right?

 

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