worb4me Posted June 13, 2016 Report Share Posted June 13, 2016 The continuing saga of my 300$ 98 GP GT. Runs good, I guess. Still don't understand why cars get "tired", or is that just the way the driver feels? I could swear that cars, after a long trip (not in the present case) tend to seem more sluggish, even for a day following the trip. Even on certain days this car seems tired. Lazy. Or what have you. But I digress. Code 141, cat o2 sensor. No big deal. Could be the harness/connector, but unlikely. This code just appeared (or reappeared) the other day. Just change the sensor I guess. Just fishing for thoughts/comments/commentary. Also need to do motor mounts (and tranny mount/s?) in a huge way. There is no stability under that hood. The whole shebang moves quite a bit when starting, braking, shifting presumably. This is a revolting situation. Again any thoughts specific to this issue/s? does this represent *all* the mounts for this car, including the transmission and if so is it recommended at this point I change them all: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7087088&cc=1317103&jsn=536 Absolutely no coolant seems to be disappearing, thank the Good Lord. Not yet anyway. But I am getting that gurgling/burning from fluid leaking from underneath the front valve cover. I had thought it was an antifreeze smell, but I'm thinking maybe it really smells like oil. Therefore need to do vc gaskets, as they fail. still loving the car though. Oh and why is my temperature gauge (orange display for heat/ac/etc) stating it's 126 degrees outside. That just started the other day. And I had tuned to an AM radio station tonight, just to have it jump to another frequency? Weird. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Padgett Posted June 13, 2016 Report Share Posted June 13, 2016 (edited) If you just have one cat P0141 is the rear (behind the cat). . Rear is just a check that the cat is working so a bad reading may also mean the cat has failed. Is it fairly steady around .5-.6v once lit ? 0v or 1.0 is usually a failed sensor. ps a "tired" engine over 100k is often a stretched timing chain retarding the cam. Edited June 13, 2016 by Padgett Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_e777 Posted June 14, 2016 Report Share Posted June 14, 2016 I had the exact same issue on my GTP when I first bought it, before changing out that rear O2 sensor follow the harness up torwards the engine to see if its damaged. Mine was just as the haness went up behind the engine in good and hard to get at place. If you dont see any damage then its time to bust out the DMM and do some testing like Padgett recommends, Here is a awesome site I found just researching the code that takes you step by step on how to test with a multimeter for the P0141 code. Other great info there as well. http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/gm/3.8L/oxygen-sensor-heater-test-1 Motor mounts were not all that hard to change out either, I parked mine facing downhill and when lowering the engine back down everything lined up perfectly. P0141 is the heater circuit for the downstream. The manuals never mentioned it but it made me feel better to disconnect the exhaust and put both control arms on jackstands so the CV axles were more level, I also had the radiator and fans out and some other minor stuff out of the way as well. She needed alot of work back then and plenty more to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
worb4me Posted June 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2016 Ok I have to ask. What else does it need? Is there any overt benefit to the supercharged model? A lot of extra complexity I'm sure. I like this car a lot. But taking a walk to Lowe's earlier I spied an Olds 88, don't know what year. If I had to choose I'd probably go with that. Also saw a white Caprice seconds later, getting harder to spot those. I ain‘t complaining, this car was an extreme bargain and seems to have promise. As long as I keep learning the value is there. Then there's the savings in shoe rubber. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
worb4me Posted June 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2016 The crossmember moves when I push on the altermator (as well as the whole engine). When looking down between the radiator and engine. I want to say k member, but I'm not positive what to call it. Runs between the wheels sort of. Bad news? Or is it built to move a little ( granted not that much) and would most of the problem be alleviated when I get and inatall the mm/tm set I just ordered? I'm scared fellas, help me out lol. Is it advisable at all to drive the car onto ramps, or is jacking it up and putting it on jackstands a better idea, to get a better look? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Padgett Posted June 14, 2016 Report Share Posted June 14, 2016 Not sure what you are referring to. If it is the engine cradle, it is held in place by bolts and bushings. If the bolts fail (and have heard of it in the rust belt) the engine can fall out. Can use ramps or jackstands but would not get under, rather take some pictures and post them to have a knowledgeable friend look at it. Replacement is not hard but a bit of as pain and the bushing assemblies tend to be a bit pricy. Surely someone here has one and can provide a better description my 3800s are earlier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_e777 Posted June 14, 2016 Report Share Posted June 14, 2016 I`d put it up on jack stads as you will have to take the front wheels off to get a good look at the engine and transmission mounts. If the ones you ordered have hydraulic fluid in them send them back and find the solid rubber ones or you will be doing the same job again in a few months to maybe a years time. If you are able to push the engine back and forth you might need the upper mounts as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
worb4me Posted June 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2016 I already ordered the mm/tm kit in the link in my op. But the subframe crossmember moves when you push on the alternator. Doesn't that mean a broken frame or something? In any eveb, untilnI can do the work, I think I'm going to try and secure the engine with a ratcheting tie down. Skeery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Padgett Posted June 14, 2016 Report Share Posted June 14, 2016 No could just mean a shot set of cradle bushings but without pictures we cannot tell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
worb4me Posted June 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2016 Ok, I am learning loads, thanks to you all, and that's definitely a good thing. Have to wait for another check or 2 before I order the bushings, and probably a few other things (like a blend door, a/c works surprisingly well, problem is I can't injoy it by driving in the passenger seat. I'm bloody not in the UK!). Already bought: A) front wheel bearings 42$ castrol oil 50/50 & filter 20$ c) mm/tm kit 78$ (they lowered the price to 60 the next day) d) o2 sensor 27$ e) timing chain and sprockets, forget f) valve cover and grommets I think g) spark plugs and wires I think that's it so far. Needs at least 2 tires and some k;nd of brakes soon. Hope the whining goes away, perhaps a p/s pump before long . . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55trucker Posted June 15, 2016 Report Share Posted June 15, 2016 sounds as tho you've purchased someone else's nightmare for $300 and the problems you've found are the reason they don't own it anymore, I'm assuming that the car is not safetied for the road as of yet.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
worb4me Posted June 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2016 What are you kidding me? This car is very dreamy, dents and all. I don't consider a few hundred in parts a nightmare. Ok some of it is structural. But it currently runs, and well, as is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Padgett Posted June 16, 2016 Report Share Posted June 16, 2016 Sounds like for about a grand you'll have a fun car. Have lots more than that in my GTP and it still idles high. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_e777 Posted June 16, 2016 Report Share Posted June 16, 2016 You might want to take a peak at those subframe mounts, you may have to lay on the ground but you should be able to see or at least feel them without raising the vehicle. If I`m reading correctly your whole subframe moves if you tug on the alternator? Dude, thats an issue and hopefully you are not driving it that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
worb4me Posted June 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2016 only 6 miles back home from work. Won't drive it again until they're replaced. Am I to understand there are 4 bushings, assuming (and I am assuming) all 4 need to be replaced? Dorman 924006? Who said a Grand?! Nuh uh. Truthfully I had 5 times as much to buy a car (not anymore) but opted for this one. I don't plane on putting nearly that much. I'm counting on the engine and tranny (ok the engine at least holding up. This is the same tranny as in my Venture, and it may have had problems (solenoid?)). I mean once you start putting money into an older car, you're kind of committed. 300$ + 3-400$, what, then junk it? Not likely. But I'm saying my prayers the ~300$ I'm investing (and labor) is a worthwhile one. Yeah there was this thumping here and there on the way to work. Hadn't heard it before. Can't really say what caused it, acceleration? I drove over a few bumps, even train tracks, didn't hear it them. Just want to make it home . . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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